2017 22' Sport Improvements

[RFP]

Originally Posted by SilverLife

Rob;
Yes I have installed many sets of soss hinges, from extra large in hidden library doors to tiny ones in jewelry boxes. Firstly, ash is a dense fairly heavy wood, depending on species, moisture content and final thickness. You will need to have a fairly close weight of the table when finished, at hopefully less than 20% kiln dried. Given the weight, the hinges are sized accordingly. You want to select the SMALLEST size hinge to handle the weight. < snip >

Thanks so much for your guidance and insight!

I should have done a better job of describing the material(s) that I'm thinking of using for the table top. If I eventually do this, I'll almost certainly use Baltic birch for the table top with the 'mounting edge' made from ash; 3/4" X 3/4". I'll join the edge to the table top with biscuits or a tongue and groove joint that I'll make on the router table. That way I get the screw holding power of ash without having the weight of an "all ash" table.

I've build many projects using that very approach, but was never concerned about weight.... so, you may have a [much] better suggestion, and I'm certainly open to that.

Rob

[SilverLife]

Using 8'6" Eureka aluminum poles to secure the awning in the down position and to attach an additional 11'6" x 9' fly to. The bungee snugs over the top of the pole to hold down the tarp and the hook end locks the pole cam in the up position.

[waninae39]

does anyone have plans/details for addressing the wasted space in the 22FB bathroom?

Just to the right of the sink is a small opening. it does not hold much

there is a ton of space under the counter and to the right of the sink, My wife wants me to add more space. So far i have added the IKEA mirror to the wall next to the battery/grey/black level monitor.

I would like to build a small cabinet to the right of the toilet , right of the sink and under the counter

Also, how do you remove the counter?

[SilverHouseDreams]

I just wanted to say thanks for sharing all of this great info, you also saved me some money as the fact that you took a brand new AS and found so many things that needed correcting pushed us to look for a used model. We will likely apply some of your changes, or ones influenced by yours, to our 2011 22FB.

The dinette pedestal has got to be one of the worst things ever "designed", it is wholly inadequate. The two most significant flaws are, as you noted, that you sleep with a "hump" in the middle of the bed...and the other is that the pedestal itself is garbage.

In our case I couldn't get the pedestal to lower more than 1 segment (the upper one), it wouldn't budge at all...I tried and tried, even with all of my body weight it wouldn't move. I forced the thing apart and found that they use these tiny little screws on the bottom of the collapsing segments to keep them from over-extending and falling apart. Well somewhere in the last 7 years one of those screws loosened, as AS obviously knows nothing about thread lock or adequate thread bite (as you noted on your tail light install)...and the screw had embedded itself into the aluminum tube. The problem had obviously progressed for a while was there was shavings of the aluminum tube and a nice "trail" about 1/16" deep carved into it before the screw head deformed enough that it just bonded and wouldn't move.

I find it amazing that this dinette is still put into trailers, our family had a SOB TT and overhead camper that were built in the 70's and I swear they had a better dinette conversion than brand new AS. I could possibly overlook the pedestal itself if the bed was remotely useable, but that nearly 1" hump is inexcusable and will be one of the first modifications I have to seek on the trailer (other than electrical upgrades that are already in progress).

[Boxite]

We made our dinette into a permanent bed and to rid ourselves of the "hump" we used the gray/rubber/foam soft-floor-mats sold by Harbor Freight for walkways. They are cheap, 1/2" and interlocking. Doubling them (one on top of the other) brought the lower seating surface up to par with the table top. We put our mattress (ordered from foambymail.com ) on top of that and enjoy a sweet slumber now.

[waninae39]

i added these LEDS lights

now we can see under the seats

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f295...ea-172034.html

[waninae39]

you can get the hinges form Lee valley
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...=3,41241,62129

[waninae39]

i have replaced some out the 115 15V outlets with "power2U" outlets.

they hahe
2x 115V 15A
plus
2x USB 2A

they have a door in-front of the USB. when its closed, the outlet used ZERO power ( for the USB)
only when the door is open, it does give usb power

this is want to looks like under the table in the kitchen area on our as 22FB

i added it when i added the LED lights to the LEFt or RIGHT area under the seats

[SilverHouseDreams]

Originally Posted by waninae39

i have replaced some out the 115 15V outlets with "power2U" outlets.



they hahe

2x 115V 15A

plus

2x USB 2A



they have a door in-front of the USB. when its closed, the outlet used ZERO power ( for the USB)

only when the door is open, it does give usb power



this is want to looks like under the table in the kitchen area on our as 22FB



i added it when i added the LED lights to the LEFt or RIGHT area under the seats

The LED storage lights are a great touch.

I just got a few outlets with USB ports too, but also to get tamper resistant outlets to make it a bit more child proof. Did you install outlet boxes too?

[waninae39]

yes i did add then.
not shown , one is behind the USB outlet and powers the Left and right storage area LED

this weekend i will add LED light to the exterior storage box

another deep dark location. the AS installed single led on the ext wall is neither strong enough nor sufficient

[ohmman]

Originally Posted by waninae39

yes i did add then.
not shown , one is behind the USB outlet and powers the Left and right storage area LED

this weekend i will add LED light to the exterior storage box

another deep dark location. the AS installed single led on the ext wall is neither strong enough nor sufficient

There is a switched light in the exterior storage space on my 2017. It's not obvious, but it's in there.

The step light, I agree, is meager.

[waninae39]

I will be adding LED strip light to the roof of that area There is a removable panel under the bed. I will try to connect that to the existing meager light in that area. that way I keep that light and its switch will control the "roof light". There is a wall to the right with a pass thru. one of the LED panel will light up this area

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by ohmman

There is a switched light in the exterior storage space on my 2017. It's not obvious, but it's in there.

The step light, I agree, is meager.

I replaced the silly little step light with an ordinary License plate light fixture. MUCH BETTER!
I also added a "scare light" above the step light at eyelevel. It is on the same supply circuit but has a dedicated switch so that if the step light is illuminated, an additional switch turns on the scare light. Simple and very useful.

[SilverHouseDreams]

Originally Posted by Boxite

I replaced the silly little step light with an ordinary License plate light fixture. MUCH BETTER!

I also added a "scare light" above the step light at eyelevel. It is on the same supply circuit but has a dedicated switch so that if the step light is illuminated, an additional switch turns on the scare light. Simple and very useful.

Would you share a photo of these? Trying to figure out what to do about that sad little light myself.

[waninae39]

see here for the lagum table

easily to modify with no tools

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f295...ml#post2003042

[waninae39]

add LED trips the external 22FB storage area

now we can see

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f295...ml#post2003047

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by Xipper

Would you share a photo of these? Trying to figure out what to do about that sad little light myself.

Click on an image below to enlarge,...then you can "scroll" thru them all in a more viewable format.


The LED license plate lite brand was "Blazer" and bought at Tractor Supply for about $6. The RV wall switch from an RV outlet for $12, mounted it onto a removeable panel intended to service the shower faucet. I used that panel because it was easy to get to and directly behind where I mounted the scare light. I routed the wire by removing the original step light and running wire up inside the wall, into the interior space to get around a bulkhead, and then to the switch, which supplies power to the scare light from the step light. In other words, if the step light is ON...the scare light switch has power to it, if I wish to turn on the scare light. (We might leave the trailer for a walk at night and the original step light was poorly designed as it blinded you instead of directing light down onto the step. The little Blazer light only shines downward onto the step.)
The "scare light" was $4 from etrailer (an ordinary 4" fixture which I placed aluminum-foil tape inside for increased reflectivity) and the chrome surround also from etrailer, about $5. (I originally had installed an all-LED light fixture but didn't like it as it was too narrow-beam. In this ordinary fixture I used an ordinary incandescent GE-1156 backup lamp because it gave more generalized lighting to the entire area outside the trailer.)
I wired it with 14 ga stranded wire, and since it's on the original step light circuit no further fusing was required.

[surgpsych]

Love this mod! When you have the chance, could you post a night shot with bother the step light AND scare light on? Also, thanks for listing the wire gauge and components. Big help! Keep em comin!

[Boxite]

I doubt a photo would reveal the true usefulness of the mod. Suffice it to say that it's impressively useful and illuminates the step completely... and the scare light illuminates the entire yard out beside the AS.

[waninae39]

i added a new drawer to the 2017 AS sport 22FB bedroom area

it uses BLUM full extension drawer slide system
you need a good wood workshop, be proficient in cabinet making and know how to design and build with BLUM h/w to do this job.

it took about 2 days after work to cut build and install this drawer

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f295...ml#post2003865