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Old 05-08-2017, 05:04 PM   #41
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Worlds Smallest Library Cabinet?

I simply plugged one end of 12 ga. SJ cord into the outlet and wired an extension outlet with a LED nite light mounted flush with the cabinet face into the other end. I extended the bed platform over with white laminate which shows when the bed is laying flat. Made a tiny door to fit the new tiny library cabinet. It should hold enough books to keep us reading for quite awhile. I will eventually change out the existing plastic laminate in all the cabinets and drawers to match this scheme. I really like how the walnut looks next to the white cabinet edges, especially with inset, not overlay doors and drawers. Also will change out all hardware to soft close Blum 110 degree hinges and SS pulls.
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Old 05-09-2017, 02:29 PM   #42
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SilverLife - Incredible work on your 22FB!! We also have a '17 22FB and are contemplating the lift kit. I called Airstream and they said they do not recommend it because it can void some of the warranty, but they would not commit to what would be voided. Dexter said their warranty stands with the kit added. Other than chassis, I cannot think of what could be voided with the kit. At this point, it is a risk we are likely willing to take. Since installing your lift kit, have you encountered anything (handling, warranty, etc) that makes you wish you had not added it?
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Old 05-09-2017, 03:01 PM   #43
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SilverLife - Incredible work on your 22FB!! We also have a '17 22FB and are contemplating the lift kit. I called Airstream and they said they do not recommend it because it can void some of the warranty, but they would not commit to what would be voided. Dexter said their warranty stands with the kit added. Other than chassis, I cannot think of what could be voided with the kit. At this point, it is a risk we are likely willing to take. Since installing your lift kit, have you encountered anything (handling, warranty, etc) that makes you wish you had not added it?
Thanks. The lift kit has made a huge difference in clearance. Less worry towing, much less stressful entering and exiting over rough driveways or dips at gas stations, and I think it just sits at a more natural height. I added the kit and then set up a new Reese hitch, so nothing had to be changed at the TV. While under there I painted all the rust and found a major kink in the main LP line. Other than a bigger first step, all good in my book. I'm not concerned about warranty because I'll fix most any issue myself. I talked at length with Dexter also and they told me the same thing- that it's a axle factory part designed for that axle and it should not affect the axle warranty. AS would probably defer any axle issues to Dexter anyway....No different in towing or braking, including a test evasive manuever.
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Old 05-10-2017, 11:07 PM   #44
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Thanks. The lift kit has made a huge difference in clearance. Less worry towing, much less stressful entering and exiting over rough driveways or dips at gas stations, and I think it just sits at a more natural height. I added the kit and then set up a new Reese hitch, so nothing had to be changed at the TV. While under there I painted all the rust and found a major kink in the main LP line. Other than a bigger first step, all good in my book. I'm not concerned about warranty because I'll fix most any issue myself. I talked at length with Dexter also and they told me the same thing- that it's a axle factory part designed for that axle and it should not affect the axle warranty. AS would probably defer any axle issues to Dexter anyway....No different in towing or braking, including a test evasive manuever.
This is a very minor thing for most people, but as someone who is slightly obsessed with efficiency, I'll note that a lift kit that raises the roof will also increase the effective frontal area of the trailer. Drag will increase so MPG will go down (slightly). Just a small something to add to the "cons" column along with the higher step.
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Old 05-11-2017, 04:27 PM   #45
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hi

why did you leave the hinges visible on the top. i would have hid them underneath so that two top surface was completely flat

good work on the side area next to the bed. does it make it harder to get into bed or no difference
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Old 05-11-2017, 05:15 PM   #46
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hi

why did you leave the hinges visible on the top. i would have hid them underneath so that two top surface was completely flat

good work on the side area next to the bed. does it make it harder to get into bed or no difference
The top is completely flat unfolded. With hinges on bottom, there would be nothing to hold the two leaves up. When folded it fits neatly next to the bench seat to make a level platform for the bed. The reason it folds is to offer many combinations of size to use as a large table, small table, computer work station, etc.

The cabinet next to the bed doesn't make it any more difficult to enter exit- it's on the head end. We also enlarged the bed to 60 x 84. A nice size for two.
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Old 05-11-2017, 05:44 PM   #47
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This is a very minor thing for most people, but as someone who is slightly obsessed with efficiency, I'll note that a lift kit that raises the roof will also increase the effective frontal area of the trailer. Drag will increase so MPG will go down (slightly). Just a small something to add to the "cons" column along with the higher step.
Good point ohmman, for anyone considering the lift. It may or may not be that minor actually; besides a physics calculation in roof wind deflection, I'm not sure how one would figure the difference. I never checked mileage before the lift because the trailer never went anywhere other than to my shop. By my calculations, if I figure a camping tow season at 5000 miles, the difference in one mile per gallon additional fuel consumption comes to roughly $39 (at $3.00/gal). Doesn't seem like much, but what if the difference is 3 or 4 mpg? Then it starts to make a noticible impact on one's fuel bill for the season. Now my curiosity is piqued and I may try to calculate this on paper. Real world, for this Sport can't be done now. I think, it would take a probably impossible driving senario to set this up as before and after conditions, like a test track with computer controlled acceleration and governance. Heck even the weather can alter fuel economy. Woops, I seem to have slipped into a rabbit hole......
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Old 05-12-2017, 11:54 AM   #48
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SilverLife - I should have the lift parts on Monday and I am debating doing the job myself. I have a floor jack, stands, and impact tools. Local RV shop estimated 2 hours @ $115/hr, which seems rather reasonable but I doubt they factored in the gas plumbing. I saw that the propane line runs over the axle and will have to be moved / rerouted to accommodate the lift kit since it has cross braces. Where did you route your piping? And, how long did it take you?
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Old 05-12-2017, 02:17 PM   #49
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SilverLife - I should have the lift parts on Monday and I am debating doing the job myself. I have a floor jack, stands, and impact tools. Local RV shop estimated 2 hours @ $115/hr, which seems rather reasonable but I doubt they factored in the gas plumbing. I saw that the propane line runs over the axle and will have to be moved / rerouted to accommodate the lift kit since it has cross braces. Where did you route your piping? And, how long did it take you?
PM me for details
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Old 05-14-2017, 11:22 PM   #50
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SilverLife,

What did you wind up doing in the bathroom next to the toilet? I also removed the cabinet wall that holds the "magazine rack" and I'm tempted to leave it off. However, it seems unfinished. My wife suggested we mount a curtain but I don't like the sound of that. I was considering removing the plastic magazine rack from the back of the stock panel and creating something larger, but that also seems cumbersome. You are clearly creative - have you thought of anything yet?
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Old 05-15-2017, 06:09 AM   #51
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SilverLife,

What did you wind up doing in the bathroom next to the toilet? I also removed the cabinet wall that holds the "magazine rack" and I'm tempted to leave it off. However, it seems unfinished. My wife suggested we mount a curtain but I don't like the sound of that. I was considering removing the plastic magazine rack from the back of the stock panel and creating something larger, but that also seems cumbersome. You are clearly creative - have you thought of anything yet?
I haven't addressed the space because there are numerous other issues all connected to it.
My original intention was to put a shelved cabinet with door next to the sink cab, and open shelves beside the toilet. Now I'm thinking of a bank of drawers next to the sink and a cabinet that houses a built in trash recptical next to the toilet. However, I can't design anything until I know the finished height of the toilet platform, which will change when I install a composting toilet. No decision has been made on the brand of toilet yet. This also determines the fate of the black water tank under the raised platform which I don't like. In addition, the shape of the factory countertop limits my cabinet depth in that space and I also want to change out all counters but haven't decided on the material yet... On it goes.
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Old 05-15-2017, 09:31 PM   #52
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I have completed the table for now. I may change out the hinges for larger heaver ones, as the leaves are pretty heavy. The top's finished thickness is 13/16". With the Lagun bracket it works as designed and has about 10 or 12 different possible combinations of setup for use. I may trim a 1/2" or so off the length but at the folded size of 18" x 30 1/2" it seems about right. Open the two leaves and it's 36" x 30 1/2". Folded, it stores neatly beside the bed.

After overthinking the support for the top in the bed platform position, I have devised a simple system to support it on two 1" square aluminum arms, supported by 4 unobtrusive brackets that won't impact a shin or knee. A ledger around the benches, besides looking ungainly, would have to project out too far to catch the top and extend past the overhang of the bench tops. The aluminum arms will clip into brackets and store in the newly created space beside the curbside tire well, which is now accessible by a lift top lid (the middle bench top, which was screwed down). I will post details when the hardware arrives and I install. For now, I am moving on to other AS and non AS projects.
we put a slim long pop-up garbage can left of the bed , right of the sink. rubber Mack tack shelf liner to keep it from sliding
we also replace the cheap fire extinguisher with a 10Lb unit

our Garmin GPS has a rear camera we want to install , but i don't know where best to poke a hole through the skin for the power signal cable

i have the 3" raiser kit for the axle and will do that some warm summer day
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Old 05-16-2017, 05:20 PM   #53
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Seems like a natural place for a trash recptical- that's the same place we put ours. If you're mounting the Garmin low, the license plate LED is directly behind the sink trap and with one hole is an easy wire fish. Up high seemed way too complex for the time I had allotted for the B/U camera install. I chickened out on that location. As far as the lift kit, without access to air tools, I wouldn't do it. But otherwise it's not really that difficult.
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Old 05-16-2017, 05:30 PM   #54
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Had a few minutes this afternoon to donate to the Sport. I finished installing the walnut rails, added one flush recessed USB port, and a small 5x12 drawer beside the bed for storage. While I was in drawer mode, I built a large "pots and pans" drawer to go where the microwave was. I'll post a photo of that when completed. Right now it's just a cavernous hole. I could probably turn it into a dog house for my bowser .Click image for larger version

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Old 05-16-2017, 09:16 PM   #55
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i added a Brahma wheel lock. Used when i disconnect the TV
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Old 05-18-2017, 05:03 PM   #56
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Had a few minutes this afternoon to donate to the Sport. I finished installing the walnut rails, added one flush recessed USB port, and a small 5x12 drawer beside the bed for storage. While I was in drawer mode, I built a large "pots and pans" drawer to go where the microwave was. I'll post a photo of that when completed. Right now it's just a cavernous hole. I could probably turn it into a dog house for my bowser .Attachment 285695Attachment 285696Attachment 285697Attachment 285698Attachment 285699
Installed a 15" deep drawer where the microwave was.Click image for larger version

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ID:	285819. Obviously now I have to replace the rest of the doors and fronts with walnut. It's not quite as wasteful as it seems- from the factory, one door had a nick on the face and another has a 4" dia bubble under the laminate that bugs the #$@* out of me every time I walk in and glance at it. Once you see it you can't avoid seeing it. Click image for larger version

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Old 05-18-2017, 05:07 PM   #57
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I purchased a couple of these for reading & task lighting at Ikea. For $5, I am very impressed. No on/off switch but just plug into a USB port. With metal wire in the neck, it stays in place. Good in the TV as well, for reading.Click image for larger version

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Old 05-20-2017, 03:38 PM   #58
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Finished up the dinette platform​. I used 1" aluminum square tube with internal press fit wood on very simple through bolted hangars. Takes seconds to install without tools and is very solid. With the table folded, it is now a totally level and stable platform for additional sleeping, with an open cubby below.
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The aluminum supports as well as the table bracket store under the back bench which is now accessible with a lift on the seat. I am pleased with how it all worked out and that in a small trailer, after increasing the bed size and removing the factory table, we gained useable storage space.Click image for larger version

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Old 05-25-2017, 04:14 PM   #59
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I have completed the table for now. I may change out the hinges for larger heaver ones... <snip >
I am agonizing over how to construct a table similar to yours (which, by the way, is stone-cold gorgeous!).

My table will be (approximately) 15" by 40" with two 'leaves' ... one on each side. The leaves will be on the long dimension, each leaf will be (approx.) 7 1/2" by 40". I am planning on using clear white ash.

What's causing me all the grief is hinge selection. I am familiar with the hinges you used as well as the SOSS 'invisible hinges.' I would prefer to use the SOSS hinges since they install completely in the edge of the table top and leaves, becoming 'invisible' when the table is opened to its full 30" by 40".

YouTube video showing the SOSS #101 hinges:

With your experience, can you offer any guidance on this?

Thanks,

Rob
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Old 05-25-2017, 06:01 PM   #60
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I am agonizing over how to construct a table similar to yours (which, by the way, is stone-cold gorgeous!).

My table will be (approximately) 15" by 40" with two 'leaves' ... one on each side. The leaves will be on the long dimension, each leaf will be (approx.) 7 1/2" by 40". I am planning on using clear white ash.

What's causing me all the grief is hinge selection. I am familiar with the hinges you used as well as the SOSS 'invisible hinges.' I would prefer to use the SOSS hinges since they install completely in the edge of the table top and leaves, becoming 'invisible' when the table is opened to its full 30" by 40".

YouTube video showing the SOSS #101 hinges:

With your experience, can you offer any guidance on this?

Thanks,

Rob
Rob;
Yes I have installed many sets of soss hinges, from extra large in hidden library doors to tiny ones in jewelry boxes. Firstly, ash is a dense fairly heavy wood, depending on species, moisture content and final thickness. You will need to have a fairly close weight of the table when finished, at hopefully less than 20% kiln dried. Given the weight, the hinges are sized accordingly. You want to select the SMALLEST size hinge to handle the weight. Bigger isn't better here because it will mean your table thickness will increase to accommodate the larger hinge and the mortises will have to be deeper and wider which leaves less material on the side of the mortise to support the hinge, which leads to split out. Secondly, the soss may have clearance issues when open folding and may not close fold to 180 degrees; always mortise test parts/leaves in the same material with the same thickness. Thirdly, if the MFG offers a mortising template, def get one. To work smoothly without binding, the soss needs to have perfectly aligned, mortises x4 done exactly perpendicular to their faces respectfully. A tip: if I were using soss, I would layout, mark and mortise all 4 on the edges BEFORE cutting the table to finished size. Finally, because there is no "stop" built in to a soss, you may end up with considerable leaf droop when table is in the open position. Def cut samples before committing to the ash to avoid disappointment later. Personally, I like the soss but it wouldn't be my first choice in a drop leaf table. Good luck.
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