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Old 09-06-2016, 07:09 PM   #161
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Update on Inverter Install in 22FB

In posts #131 and #133 I explained the process with photos of the installation of a 1000 watt inverter into my trailer. I have now used this device over the past four months totaling well over 45 different days. And, I must say I am really pleased with the outcome.

Briefly stated, I have a 120 Watt, Ramp Go Power portable solar panel plus a 2200 watt Ryobi Inverter Generator. These have been used to keep two Interstate group 24 batteries charged. Generator use has been limited to days where there just wasn't enough sunlight to "fully charge the batteries". I can count on one hand the number of times the generator was used to "supplement" the solar panel.

Over the course of the 45 plus night's, I have used the inverter to power the on board tv plus with a small DVD player with a 500 Gig USB drive that contains several movies, cartoons, music and tv shows. Normally, this would be used in the evenings for a period of 1 to 2 hours.

When it was time for "lights out" the inverter powered two CPAP devices, both running humidifiers.

The dual batteries powered not only the "inverter" but kept heater fans running off and on throughout nights where the temps dropped close to freezing....especially in Yellowstone.

Generally speaking, battery voltage going into the evening hours was in the 12.8-volt range and would drop by daylight the next day to at or slightly below 12 volts.

The only time the inverter "signed off" (it has an auto cut off when the battery voltage drops below a certain threshold) was on one of the mornings when I got greedy and tried to operate an electric coffee maker.

In summary, I am really pleased with the set up as it has given me freedom to "boondock" at will but the confidence knowing it can be done.

Hope this info can be of value to others.
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Old 10-04-2016, 01:42 PM   #162
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Frank and Mike, love the couch look! Question! Do you just drill holes in the floor and then put screws in or do you use an anchor bolt? Also what did you use to plug the holes were you removed the table?
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Old 10-04-2016, 08:07 PM   #163
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Frank and Mike, love the couch look! Question! Do you just drill holes in the floor and then put screws in or do you use an anchor bolt? Also what did you use to plug the holes were you removed the table?
Thank you Jim. I was able to drill holes in the floor that anchored into wood so use of anchor bolts wasn't necessary. I utilized liquid nails to plug the holds and then just used a black felt tip marker to color over the liquid nails.
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Old 10-05-2016, 11:57 AM   #164
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Thanks for the info!
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Old 10-31-2016, 09:46 AM   #165
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Originally Posted by Rpatrick16 View Post
This is a follow up to my previous post regarding the installation of a 1000 watt inverter. That post is found here:http://www.airforums.com/forums/f295...137731-10.html

Here are some pics of the outcome:
First photo shows the placement of the inverter next to the water heater.....t.
Very nice posting. I offer one constructive-criticism, if you don't mind...
.. Electrical installations should avoid water/plumbing whenever possible, and NEVER beneath plumbing unless the wiring is protected. A water leak (think of one of those PEX clamps or tubes spraying water onto that 120volt inverter) might cause a fire...in this case, beneath your bed.

I would suggest relocating the inverter and associated wiring <OR> installing a waterproof membrane over all the wiring/receptacles and a waterproof divider between the plumbing and inverter.

Hope this helps.
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Old 12-18-2016, 07:41 AM   #166
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Dinette

[QUOTE=Frank&Mike;1647328]Background:
Newly purchased November 2015, was questioning if it was turning out to be the wrong model for our needs (having previously owned two 25 footers and one 32 footer) because:
1. the smaller footprint limits access through the galley area to 1 person at a time,
2. the table layout didn't allow for a sofa/lounge area,
3. the challenge to access that nice large storage space under the bed (get on your knees and stick you head up in there and pull everything out),
4. the dislike for the kitchen sink, and
5. the dislike for the mini-blinds.

Today I decided the things that were prompting us to question our purchase have easy "fixes", so it was time to start working on the solutions.

Upon arriving home from our weekend camping, we started to work on resolving items 1 and 2 which turned out to be a simple "fix" as follows:

1. Move the table base as close to the curb side dinette area as possible.
2. The factory places the table base 8 inches out into the galley area, away from the dinette seating (on the curb side), so by moving the table base as close to the curb side dinette as possible it:

Any thoughts on chopping the back of the Dinette off so it is not a rap around? Do you think this could be done. I have the same feeling about no room for people to pass or sit. I like a regular dinette, but hate the rap around.
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Old 12-18-2016, 07:51 AM   #167
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What are your thoughts about removing the rap around portion of the dinette, making it even closer to the wall?
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Old 12-18-2016, 08:41 AM   #168
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What are your thoughts about removing the rap around portion of the dinette, making it even closer to the wall?
The back portion of the dinette sits over the wheel well, so the bench part could not be removed.
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Old 12-18-2016, 02:42 PM   #169
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I thought the wheel well was under the "rear" side bench, not the center? I was trying to make a traditional thinner dinette or maybe just a couch that could collapse into a bed. I hate the U shape dinnette.
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:58 PM   #170
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We also have issues with our 22 Sport dinette table. My plan is to cut a custom table top out of reclaimed oak or pecan. Make it a kidney shape, or maybe a sort-of surfboard shape. Smaller than the factory table. Just need to source the wood, and have a free afternoon. We will never use this area as a bed, so no loss.


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Old 12-19-2016, 05:33 AM   #171
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While I have considered a different table top for food prep and aesthetics (butcher block, despite its weight), I do hang out on the Lounge on hot afternoons. And we do have a third person along sometimes who sleeps on the table/bed.

If we had a smaller table top, I would still need a means to make up the table-bed.

Please post pictures if you make any changes.
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Old 12-20-2016, 07:18 AM   #172
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Newbie here!! Question! I have aprox. 1360 miles on my 2015 Sport. Should I have the bearings repacked for my first long trip to Phoenix?? Thank you.
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Old 12-20-2016, 06:19 PM   #173
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Newbie here!! Question! I have aprox. 1360 miles on my 2015 Sport. Should I have the bearings repacked for my first long trip to Phoenix?? Thank you.
This is going to evoke a lot of subjectivity, but in my opinion, there is no need to repack wheel bearings as often as many "sources" suggest. Although AS's use traditional axle setups, virtually all modern vehicles have sealed wheel bearings using synthetic greases, and they typically go a hundred, sometimes double hundred thousand miles between replacement. If you pack your wheel bearings with similar grease and do not drive deeply thru water to submerge them, then they should last as long between packings as the vehicles, which easily reach 100K miles.
Now, that statement is likely to result in a lot of criticism, but I paid my way thru college and flight school working as a mechanic for Toyota dealerships and aircraft repair shops and that is a personal opinion.
The problem with trailers is that they sit for long periods and are usually packed with ordinary (mineral-based) greases. In that case, I'd repack them every 20K miles, and completely replace the bearing cones and cups every second packing (40K miles. These are also good times to inspect/replace brakes.) I'd also use U.S. made Timken brand bearings instead of the chineese ones so common these days. (The local CARQUEST shop I visit keeps the chineese bearings in a bucket, not even individually packaged, where they bang and bounce around with each other, completely unprotected from dust or humidity, until some unknowledgeable soul comes to buy them. True, they only cost about $15 each set, and the set of U.S. made Timkens, wrapped in oiled, vapor-paper and packaged in an individual box is $30... but that's cheap insurance against sitting on the side of some dark, rain-soaked road in the middle of the night with a failed bearing and damaged wheel-well.)
Chances are most AS owners have someone else do this job for them, and as a former mechanic for dealerships I can say that I would not let some 'yea-hoo' at a dealership touch my bearings and brakes. I witnessed so many instances where bearings were spun-up using shop air (chatters and damages the uncontained rollers) and where old grease was forced out of bearings by auto-pack tools which simply forced new grease thru the rollers (instead of removing old grease with solvent, properly drying and inspecting rollers and cones/cups for discoloration and galling), and then having a red shop-rag used to wipe them down (thereby leaving red cotton threads contaminating the bearing) causing damage and failure on the highway for some poor owner.
Only if you KNOW your mechanic, or can emphasize to him that you know about such poor practices and can trust him to treat your machinery with the same respect he'd give his own, would I let someone else do my bearings.
When bearings are disassembled...they should be kept in pairs/isolated so that cups and cones are kept together....not later mixed together. In other words, they should be kept in matched sets. When replaced, they should be replaced in matched sets. If dropped they should be destroyed and thrown into the trash. When seated they should be pressed-in with a hydraulic or vertical press...not hammered in with a socket used as a driver. (Cheap sockets like such unprofessional mechanics usually buy shed chrome-plating when so used, and chrome flakes destroy bearings.)
Sorry for the long rant. Hope it puts a little light on matters.
Anway,... no, you don't have to repack your bearings with so little mileage on them. If 'yea-hoo' repacks them they'll be in worse shape than if left alone anyway.
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Old 12-21-2016, 09:59 AM   #174
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To Boxite! Thank you for the answer! Not long winded at all! As one gets older they like answers such as yours!! You touch on all the points of what ifs!! I have already printed up your response and it will be in the Anaconda (AS) for future reference. Thanks again.
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Old 12-22-2016, 08:56 AM   #175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rpatrick16 View Post
In posts #131 and #133 I explained the process with photos of the installation of a 1000 watt inverter into my trailer. I have now used this device over the past four months totaling well over 45 different days. And, I must say I am really pleased with the outcome.

Briefly stated, I have a 120 Watt, Ramp Go Power portable solar panel plus a 2200 watt Ryobi Inverter Generator. These have been used to keep two Interstate group 24 batteries charged. Generator use has been limited to days where there just wasn't enough sunlight to "fully charge the batteries". I can count on one hand the number of times the generator was used to "supplement" the solar panel.

Over the course of the 45 plus night's, I have used the inverter to power the on board tv plus with a small DVD player with a 500 Gig USB drive that contains several movies, cartoons, music and tv shows. Normally, this would be used in the evenings for a period of 1 to 2 hours.

When it was time for "lights out" the inverter powered two CPAP devices, both running humidifiers.

The dual batteries powered not only the "inverter" but kept heater fans running off and on throughout nights where the temps dropped close to freezing....especially in Yellowstone.

Generally speaking, battery voltage going into the evening hours was in the 12.8-volt range and would drop by daylight the next day to at or slightly below 12 volts.

The only time the inverter "signed off" (it has an auto cut off when the battery voltage drops below a certain threshold) was on one of the mornings when I got greedy and tried to operate an electric coffee maker.

In summary, I am really pleased with the set up as it has given me freedom to "boondock" at will but the confidence knowing it can be done.

Hope this info can be of value to others.
Can you post a picture of the box you built for the two batteries? I have a 2016 22' Sport.
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Old 12-22-2016, 10:36 AM   #176
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This is a neat item that IKEA sells for organizing pots and pans. We found it to be perfect for "nesting" our drinkware so that they don't slide all over the place when we're in transit. The neat thing about this item is that it expands and contracts to fit whatever footprint your needs require.



I placed it on its side in the last photo to demonstrate how this item could be placed in a different position for wall mounting and utilized in other capacities (perhaps mounted on a wall or inside a closet to hang towels or clothes or other items ... I have lots of ideas for ways to use this).

That's cool!!!!!!!


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Old 12-29-2016, 08:03 AM   #177
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2015 22' Sport - We Made Some Changes

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Old 12-29-2016, 08:10 AM   #178
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Counter space is also prime real estate in the Airstream ... so I decided to mount a paper towel holder under the upper cabinet area and free up space on the coutertop.

Also a photo of our new ottoman ... well actually it's the dog's launch pad to get onto and off the bed ... so it's really their ottoman ... the previous one was looking pretty used up ... so time for a new one.

Can the "dog's launch pad" store items? Is it hollow or a solid piece? I'm looking for something similar to use as extra clothing storage. Placing it under the bed overhang in my 2014 Bambi sport '16.


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Old 12-29-2016, 01:20 PM   #179
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Can you post a picture of the box you built for the two batteries? I have a 2016 22' Sport.
I would love to show you a photo but "Milley" is buried in a couple feet of snow at the moment. I can tell you what I did however...it was simple and made out of scrap marine plywood that i had on hand.
1. I removed the original battery box from the "tray' behind the propane tanks.
2. Using 2 x 4's I created a new shelf that is supported by both the 2 x 4's set on their edges and and pcs of "marine plywood" that rests on both "arms of the A frame" of the trailer and the original battery tray. When crafting this I believe I made mine about 8" wide which allowed plenty of access room to reach the "spare tire" handle.
3. I then purchased two pcs of aluminum 2" angle from a local hardware store. Using "flathead screws" this was fastened to each of the long edges of the new shelf.
4. I then purchased a 2nd battery box to hold the 2nd Group 24 Interstate Battery. The new boxes fit snugly on the new shelf "end to end".
5. Each of the boxes is secured by new 2" web straps .

At the moment the batteries are in my heated shop attached to a 2 amp Battery Tender.

I hope this description helps.

Happy New Year!

Pat
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Old 12-30-2016, 12:19 PM   #180
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Any ideas for between sink and bed area?

I have been eyeing the area between the sink and the side of the bed.

Right now this area seems to be used mostly as a spot to plop down a backpack or tote bag.

I was wondering if anyone has come up with a good utilization for that space?

I was thinking that a small rolling cart with a bit of supplemental counter space might be nice to have when doing prep or washing dishes. Something that might also be brought outside when cooking there.

I haven't found anything that seems just right and looks good.

So how is everyone using that space?

Thanks
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