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Old 05-03-2016, 08:05 PM   #113
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Did you have to drill new holes to install these?
I was able to use some of the existing holes ... but did have to drill a few new holes.
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:08 PM   #114
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I installed a full length dress-mirror on our bath door also... but facing the dinette...not the bathroom...for dressing and making the interior of the AS appear roomier.

WARNING to 22' Sport owners on that accordion shower door: AS failed to properly seal with silicone the lower track and the ends will leak water to a point beneath the shower and it will ooze out onto the vinyl floor in front of the shower and rot the floor. It LOOKS completely sealed...but it's NOT. The "floor" of that track is not sealed at the ends.
Fix: Remove the lower curtain track completely, clean the area, and properly re-seal it with genuine GE Silicone II. (This leak may fool you into believing the shower drain/sewer line has a leak, but it's actually that shower curtain lower track.) This is a wide-spread assembly-line error committed by AS on all these models.
Good suggestion on the mirror facing the dinette (I've debated installing one on that side as well ... and very good suggestion to everyone on that shower curtain track needing sealant (we had ours addressed twice at the dealership for this issue).
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Old 05-04-2016, 12:10 AM   #115
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Equalizer Bars on hitch-Should we have them installed?

Any suggestions on the need for equalizer bars on the hitch. We are planning a cross county trip from TX to western Canada and haven't towed our AS but a few short trips. We have a 22 ft, single axle AS and a newer truck with a tow package and off road suspension
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Old 05-04-2016, 05:27 AM   #116
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Originally Posted by Frank&Mike View Post
I was able to use some of the existing holes ... but did have to drill a few new holes.
Thanks! That's the only thing that gives me pause - drilling holes into the interior skin. You said it was easy, and I believe you, but I am a bit paranoid when it comes to that...
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Old 05-04-2016, 09:58 AM   #117
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Any suggestions on the need for equalizer bars on the hitch. We are planning a cross county trip from TX to western Canada and haven't towed our AS but a few short trips. We have a 22 ft, single axle AS and a newer truck with a tow package and off road suspension
OMGosh! Yes.
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Old 05-04-2016, 11:42 AM   #118
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Any suggestions on the need for equalizer bars on the hitch. We are planning a cross county trip from TX to western Canada and haven't towed our AS but a few short trips. We have a 22 ft, single axle AS and a newer truck with a tow package and off road suspension
You can start a war with opinions on that subject,...
I've towed quite happily with a standard hitch, no WD or sway ctrl... but loading the trailer properly. In my own opinion, the bambi's don't need it generally. Rough roads, deep dips, tight turns, backing up.... are all a problem with them.
Try it without WD and if you don't like it... you can always buy into the WD market later.
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Old 05-04-2016, 09:36 PM   #119
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Originally Posted by sck View Post
Any suggestions on the need for equalizer bars on the hitch. We are planning a cross county trip from TX to western Canada and haven't towed our AS but a few short trips. We have a 22 ft, single axle AS and a newer truck with a tow package and off road suspension
I am by no means an expert on this but have learned a lot in the short time I've owned my new 22FB. I pull with a Ford Explorer that has the tow package so my experiences are going to be different (incidentally Ford "requires an equalizer hitch" above 3000#).

Since I'm not sure what size your truck is some of what I am about to suggest may be useless you to.

The important thing I've learned is that your trailer really needs to be level when towing. If the front is higher than the rear your plumbing is going to be in "peril" as it will scrape the travel surface.

Another thing I've learned in talking with those that pull via a "pickup" and don't have "equalizers" they have complained about a "rocking motion"...when the TV hits un-even surfaces. Since an "equalizer hitch" transfers about a third of the trailer weight to the rear wheels of the TV, providing a "smoother ride".

I have to acknowledge there seems to be a lot of different opinions on this subject as my son drives a Ram 2500 and is convinced they are not necessary.

Your about to make a rather long trek and the addition of a "equalizer" set up could be money well spent. Good luck coming to a decision.
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Old 05-05-2016, 04:58 AM   #120
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My 2 cents.

Since the weights on the 22 are not that much (relatively), the weight distribution may or may not be important.

But sway control is always important.

I feel for 2 reasons.

1 is that it can help keep you out of trouble.

2 is that we live in a country where when things go wrong, someone is always looking to sue somebody. I feel by using a WDH and sway control, that no one in a court of law could say that I hadn't properly equipped my rig. I advised my co-worker with a very small vintage scotty the same thing. She agreed. Why make yourself a target for those who would be looking for a reason for me to pay for their mistakes?
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:11 AM   #121
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Lions and Tigers and....Lawyers! OH MY!

(Sorry, couldn't resist) LOL

The ol' scare tactic... just turns my stomach. Everyone scared of the unknown frightens others into doing whatever they've been scared into themselves until the equipment takes on the appearance of being mandatory.
B.S.

A weight dist. hitch does not make the ride "smoother". It makes the TV and the trailer resemble a long and rigid one-piece vehicle. Bumps and grinds are shared among the hitched vehicles and they no longer articulate individually.

On smaller and lighter trailers with medium and larger tow vehicles that articulation is a GOOD thing (IMHO) for maneuverability, rough roads with swales and backing up. On higher speed highways there is no disadvantage either.

I know someone is going to raise the "hidden monster" threat about towing without an iron-bridge connecting the two vehicles but it's just not true until you have tow vehicles too small for the size and load of the trailer. This last is where the WD/Anti-sway becomes important.

If your TV equals or exceeds your trailer in size/weight you likely do not need nor desire a WD hitch with antisway. Example: a Ram 1500 loaded for travel weighs about 7K and the Bambi's weigh about 4K-5K. This is a good relationship that does not need it.
However, if you're towing a Excell with a Honda... you need a better TV first, and a WD along with it.

(OK...I'll step down now off the soapbox....)
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:06 PM   #122
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Free sport 22 matress

Hi all,
We moved our table also...much better!

Ours is a sport 22, 2011 and we have a free matress & pad.
We needed a better matress and had a custom futon made to replace the matress as soon as we got the trailer. Matress stored in dry/clean basement.
So original matress is like new.
We live near Syracuse, NY
Robbie
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Old 05-05-2016, 07:25 PM   #123
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Hi all,
We moved our table also...much better!

Ours is a sport 22, 2011 and we have a free matress & pad.
We needed a better matress and had a custom futon made to replace the matress as soon as we got the trailer. Matress stored in dry/clean basement.
So original matress is like new.
We live near Syracuse, NY
Robbie
Glad to hear that you found the modification to suit your needs and that you're happy with the change. It appears a number of us have now made this change.
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Old 05-06-2016, 08:19 AM   #124
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Thank you to everyone who added input on the equalizer bars. Our truck is plenty big to pull the trailer and new but I think we will get the bars so we feel a bit more comfortable.
The rock panels have now arrived so we should be ready to hit the road later this month. Headed to Home Depot for a mirror and Piano hinge and will work on the conversions over the summer. Safe travels to everyone!
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Old 05-06-2016, 10:09 PM   #125
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Another modification made the couch/seat deeper & the back angled. Much better.
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Old 05-09-2016, 09:14 AM   #126
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This Thread is infectious and expensive!

My trailer is a 2016 22FB Sport and I'm not sure how AS made changes over recent years in their manufacturing process. However, this is my experience.

The "dinette" move was a "piece of cake" ....it went smoothly and has been working really well.

My wife and I travel with two of our grandkids when we camp and we have always been tied down to using CGs that offer full hook ups. We live in western Montana and when you use state park, NF or National Park camp grounds your not going to have the luxury of electrical power. To solve that problem I added a 2nd battery. Next...for "occasional" videos and the ability to use two Cpap devices I am adding a small "pure sign wave" inverter. I've covered the 2nd battery install in a separate post.

To install the inverter I needed a sold source of dc power and a good ground. So in the process of looking for what I would consider "power/grounding" blocks I found them in the left front corner of the trailer in a separate partion in the front storage area. To get to it you really need to remove the front plywood section. This chore was a little more difficult in that AS didn't leave many options on their ground block.

While I had the plywood off I re-read the parts of this thread that covered adding a piano hinge to facilitate storage access.

Like others I bought my 72" hinge at HomeDepot.

This is were I ran into the biggest "hassle" of them all.

Since the plywood is already in two pcs you don't have to cut it in half...other than timing a half inch off the sides like others have suggested. But, when I mounted the hinge and then tried to lift it ....it wouldn't budge. The screws that come with the hinge pass thru the thin plywood and sink right into the support bracket. So I had to remove the hinge and re-think this process. What I ended up doing was replacing the hinge on the biggest part of the plywood(the part that actually lifts)...flipping it over and grinding down the screws on the bottom. This is no small task in that your looking at a lot of screws and you don't have much space to move the large pcs of plywood around. Thanks to a power screw driver I was able to quickly replace all the screws on the other part of the hinge and .....walla....it works.

But.....as I was preparing to put the mattress back on the bed I got to thinking that the exposed hinge with close to 50 screws would over time chaff the back of the mattress. So....to to prevent that I used three strips of the most "valuable tool" in the box....."duck tape"! I applied one strip to cover all the screw heads on each side of the hinge and a third pcs over the top of the hinge. The addition of tape does nothing to impede the action of lifting the bed. Now all I have to do is add the struts....they are being ordered.

With these additions it is time to "stop" the mods, go out and enjoy the trailer as often as possible.

Hope these little tid bits are helpful to others.
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