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Old 09-05-2016, 04:02 PM   #155
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Originally Posted by Frank&Mike View Post
Yes, absolutely, very happy to share the information. Following is the direct link to the shades:

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/search/?qu...t+roller+blind

They come in white, gray and black. We chose the gray so the attached photos reflect the SKU for gray. The 22 foot Sport requires 5 shades if you replace each of the blinds. So the attached photos reflect the SKUs for the 5 sizes.

Hope this helps.
I looked at these items and noticed they are 36" wide. How did you get them to the correct width....is that 27"? Can they be ordered to fit right out of the box?
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Old 09-05-2016, 04:36 PM   #156
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I looked at these items and noticed they are 36" wide. How did you get them to the correct width....is that 27"? Can they be ordered to fit right out of the box?
I don't think they are available in custom widths. We purchased the sizes in stock that most closely measured the widths of the original blinds.
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Old 09-06-2016, 06:19 AM   #157
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Still confused on blind width.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank&Mike View Post
Yes, absolutely, very happy to share the information. Following is the direct link to the shades:

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/search/?qu...t+roller+blind

They come in white, gray and black. We chose the gray so the attached photos reflect the SKU for gray. The 22 foot Sport requires 5 shades if you replace each of the blinds. So the attached photos reflect the SKUs for the 5 sizes.

Hope this helps.
Sorry folks but I am still confused on "sizing" for the Ikea blinds. Since these are not custom fit and come with a width much larger than the side windows in the 22FB bedroom have you all "cut them" to fit or are you installing them with the large over lap. i've been watching videos on YouTube to learn how to reduce their width. Can you all help me out?

Thanks
Pat
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Old 09-06-2016, 11:32 AM   #158
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Pat, if you click on one of the blinds in the link, you'll find an option for "more options". They come in narrower widths: I found 23" and 27", amongst others. I don't know the actual width of my current mini blinds, but one of those two would work.
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Old 09-06-2016, 11:34 AM   #159
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Name:   ImageUploadedByAirstream Forums1473183269.124635.jpg
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Size:  30.8 KB

Here's a screen shot of the sizes available
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Old 09-06-2016, 02:00 PM   #160
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Finally!

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Originally Posted by stsammy View Post
Attachment 270986

Here's a screen shot of the sizes available
Thank you so much...finally got it. Really appreciate your help.

Pat
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Old 09-06-2016, 06:09 PM   #161
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Update on Inverter Install in 22FB

In posts #131 and #133 I explained the process with photos of the installation of a 1000 watt inverter into my trailer. I have now used this device over the past four months totaling well over 45 different days. And, I must say I am really pleased with the outcome.

Briefly stated, I have a 120 Watt, Ramp Go Power portable solar panel plus a 2200 watt Ryobi Inverter Generator. These have been used to keep two Interstate group 24 batteries charged. Generator use has been limited to days where there just wasn't enough sunlight to "fully charge the batteries". I can count on one hand the number of times the generator was used to "supplement" the solar panel.

Over the course of the 45 plus night's, I have used the inverter to power the on board tv plus with a small DVD player with a 500 Gig USB drive that contains several movies, cartoons, music and tv shows. Normally, this would be used in the evenings for a period of 1 to 2 hours.

When it was time for "lights out" the inverter powered two CPAP devices, both running humidifiers.

The dual batteries powered not only the "inverter" but kept heater fans running off and on throughout nights where the temps dropped close to freezing....especially in Yellowstone.

Generally speaking, battery voltage going into the evening hours was in the 12.8-volt range and would drop by daylight the next day to at or slightly below 12 volts.

The only time the inverter "signed off" (it has an auto cut off when the battery voltage drops below a certain threshold) was on one of the mornings when I got greedy and tried to operate an electric coffee maker.

In summary, I am really pleased with the set up as it has given me freedom to "boondock" at will but the confidence knowing it can be done.

Hope this info can be of value to others.
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Old 10-04-2016, 12:42 PM   #162
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Frank and Mike, love the couch look! Question! Do you just drill holes in the floor and then put screws in or do you use an anchor bolt? Also what did you use to plug the holes were you removed the table?
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Old 10-04-2016, 07:07 PM   #163
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Frank and Mike, love the couch look! Question! Do you just drill holes in the floor and then put screws in or do you use an anchor bolt? Also what did you use to plug the holes were you removed the table?
Thank you Jim. I was able to drill holes in the floor that anchored into wood so use of anchor bolts wasn't necessary. I utilized liquid nails to plug the holds and then just used a black felt tip marker to color over the liquid nails.
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Old 10-05-2016, 10:57 AM   #164
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Thanks for the info!
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Old 10-31-2016, 08:46 AM   #165
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This is a follow up to my previous post regarding the installation of a 1000 watt inverter. That post is found here:http://www.airforums.com/forums/f295...137731-10.html

Here are some pics of the outcome:
First photo shows the placement of the inverter next to the water heater.....t.
Very nice posting. I offer one constructive-criticism, if you don't mind...
.. Electrical installations should avoid water/plumbing whenever possible, and NEVER beneath plumbing unless the wiring is protected. A water leak (think of one of those PEX clamps or tubes spraying water onto that 120volt inverter) might cause a fire...in this case, beneath your bed.

I would suggest relocating the inverter and associated wiring <OR> installing a waterproof membrane over all the wiring/receptacles and a waterproof divider between the plumbing and inverter.

Hope this helps.
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:41 AM   #166
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Dinette

[QUOTE=Frank&Mike;1647328]Background:
Newly purchased November 2015, was questioning if it was turning out to be the wrong model for our needs (having previously owned two 25 footers and one 32 footer) because:
1. the smaller footprint limits access through the galley area to 1 person at a time,
2. the table layout didn't allow for a sofa/lounge area,
3. the challenge to access that nice large storage space under the bed (get on your knees and stick you head up in there and pull everything out),
4. the dislike for the kitchen sink, and
5. the dislike for the mini-blinds.

Today I decided the things that were prompting us to question our purchase have easy "fixes", so it was time to start working on the solutions.

Upon arriving home from our weekend camping, we started to work on resolving items 1 and 2 which turned out to be a simple "fix" as follows:

1. Move the table base as close to the curb side dinette area as possible.
2. The factory places the table base 8 inches out into the galley area, away from the dinette seating (on the curb side), so by moving the table base as close to the curb side dinette as possible it:

Any thoughts on chopping the back of the Dinette off so it is not a rap around? Do you think this could be done. I have the same feeling about no room for people to pass or sit. I like a regular dinette, but hate the rap around.
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:51 AM   #167
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What are your thoughts about removing the rap around portion of the dinette, making it even closer to the wall?
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Old 12-18-2016, 07:41 AM   #168
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What are your thoughts about removing the rap around portion of the dinette, making it even closer to the wall?
The back portion of the dinette sits over the wheel well, so the bench part could not be removed.
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