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Old 03-18-2012, 05:31 PM   #519
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Be sure to level your trailer side to side buy placing blocks under your wheels. The jacks are NOT jacks, but stabilizers to keep the trailer from rocking. If you lift the trailer with them, you will bend your frame and have no end of problems. Main door difficulty in opening and closing is one sign yhat your trailer is not properly level or excessive stress is on your frame from the stabilizers.
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1997 34' Excella 1000
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Old 03-19-2012, 03:56 PM   #520
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Thumbs up TV Works

SafariSS yes the tv is plugged into the camper top shelf storage unit above the dinette table. Also the power plug works inside the queen room next to the window curb side and the power outlet in the back bunk area. Will take it to a rv center for service to see if they can figure it out. Im sure its something simple. The camper has had very little use. Unless it was broken and not working when it was new. Thanks again for the help. Its been very useful. The fridge is working good on gas. Just odd that the fridge doesn't work on shore power. Could that be an extensive problem? Have a blessed day/night. Mark
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:47 PM   #521
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Hey Mark,

The refrigerator runs off a basic outlet accessed from the outside refrigerator access. I suspect when you find the issue with the other outlets you will solve your fridge problem also.

Your going to love your bunkhouse once you get it all tweaked out. I will have to look for those posts that highlight the rear bumper sealing issues. Keep an eye on leaks!
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Old 03-19-2012, 09:31 PM   #522
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We really love the layout out it. Be great once we get the bugs worked out. I did look at the front compartment and it does seems to be getting some hairline cracks coming off the bottom corner of the compartment. Also noticed this afternoon the carpet was damp in the bunk area towards the kitchen side of the carpet in the bunk area. So would it be best to take it to an airstream service center? The closet one from where we are is in Springfield MO which is about 70 miles away. Just wondered the best plan of attack to get the bugs worked out.
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:15 PM   #523
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My guess is that your skylight is leaking and the water is traveling down to the floor through the wall. The cover may be cracked, but you might be able to seal over the screws that attached the outside cover. I had the same issue and I have read that others have too.

As for power, it sounds like one or more 110V circuits is out. If the breaker is not tripped, it could be a loose connection at the distribution panel. It could also be that you have a GFCI tripped, might just be a reset there.
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:56 PM   #524
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Amsterdamer you hit the nail on the head. We picked
A weekend to try the camper out when it rained 8 inches
of water. In the mist of the rain the cabinet above the stove started
filling up with water. We pulled the cabinet down to find water running
Down the wall. After getting the cabinet out we noticed some of the the screws
had rust on them. I went to tsc and picked up a tarp and put it just behind the
AC unit and over the fantastic fan and sky light. It's still raining so I guess we will see if that will get us by. So it's the sky light and not the fantastic fan?
Thanks for info.
I tried to look up there and seen where it had been sealed but it looks to be dried out. What's the best seal to use?? Will the inside be ok from getting wet?
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Old 03-21-2012, 06:39 PM   #525
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Sorry to hear that your first time out was so wet. The good new is that you’ll have all the kinks worked out for the rest of the season.

The fantastic fan is probably not leaking. There are no external fasteners to leak and the cover overlaps the hole in the roof.

On my skylight, there are screws that fasten the outside cover on and very small cracks had formed where the screws attached. Also the screws are inset a little, so small puddles could form. I used exterior grade flexible calking and it did the job. I think Rich replaced his cover when his cracked, but I think a tube of calk is worth a shot.

If the cabinet over the stove got water in it, the 110 outlet in that cabinet may have gotten wet and tripped the GFCI breaker.

When reaching for the roof on an airstream, lean on the riveted seams as these are strong and won’t dent. The end caps are the softest so avoid any pressure on those.

One more thought. I’m a big fan of the Ultimate Tire Chock from Hensley. They are not expensive and really reduce the movement of the trailer to near zero when people move around in it. They are for sale on the Hensley site. With two in place, the stabilizer jacks only have to stop vertical motion, as the chocks will stop the horizontal motion.
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Old 03-22-2012, 01:29 PM   #526
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Got it towed home after a very wet week. Tarped the fantastic fan and the sky light for the second part of the week. It's scheduled to go to the shop on Friday to get the bugs worked out. Thanks to everyone for the help. The sky lights getting repaired and having them look into the hot water heater leak and the outlets that aren't working. Any other things I should have checked before our next trip out. To top off the weekend as we were loading up the AS for the trip home the front jack broke. Lol removed it and will be adding an electric jack. Where's the best place to get one of those? Thanks
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Old 04-04-2012, 03:59 PM   #527
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New to Airstreams, and now living in it!

New to forums, have a 2006 30' bunk that so far we love. We're living in it (two adults, a one-year old daughter, and two labs) on our land while we build our house. Have managed to get power and water, and have sewage pumped by a porta-potti company out of a 250 gal container twice a month. We also rented a storage container for all of our household goods and a portable office for my office and my wife's closet. The trailer is not moving for a few years, and have some questions about how to best deal with a stationary trailer.

1) Do we put it up on jacks? If so, do the jacks go on the axle housings? We bought jack stands that say they hold 6000 lbs, but they say to only use for stabilizing, not for jacking the whole trailer (these are not the ones built onto the trailer- we know from reading the forum to not use those for levelling!). If not jacks, what do you recommend? Once up, can we just Armor-All the tires or do we need to actually buy covers? The tires face East-West so they'll get morning and evening direct sun.
2) We've already had mice, and there are lots of them around so we need to keep them out (and worse, rats- so far none in the trailer, knock wood). I think the mice got in via the freshwater hose that I had draped over the back bumper which gave them an entrance. I think I've got them all for now, but any advice on keeping others out? I'm allergic to cats, so that's a non-option at least inside. I'm reticent to use poison since there are lots of birds of prey (and scavengers) around.

We'll post some pics soon- have built a slide-out crib into the bottom bunk in which others with babies might be interested. Thanks in advance for the help!
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Old 04-04-2012, 04:05 PM   #528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creekhouse View Post
New to forums, have a 2006 30' bunk that so far we love. We're living in it (two adults, a one-year old daughter, and two labs) on our land while we build our house. Have managed to get power and water, and have sewage pumped by a porta-potti company out of a 250 gal container twice a month. We also rented a storage container for all of our household goods and a portable office for my office and my wife's closet. The trailer is not moving for a few years, and have some questions about how to best deal with a stationary trailer.

1) Do we put it up on jacks? If so, do the jacks go on the axle housings? We bought jack stands that say they hold 6000 lbs, but they say to only use for stabilizing, not for jacking the whole trailer (these are not the ones built onto the trailer- we know from reading the forum to not use those for levelling!). If not jacks, what do you recommend? Once up, can we just Armor-All the tires or do we need to actually buy covers? The tires face East-West so they'll get morning and evening direct sun.
2) We've already had mice, and there are lots of them around so we need to keep them out (and worse, rats- so far none in the trailer, knock wood). I think the mice got in via the freshwater hose that I had draped over the back bumper which gave them an entrance. I think I've got them all for now, but any advice on keeping others out? I'm allergic to cats, so that's a non-option at least inside. I'm reticent to use poison since there are lots of birds of prey (and scavengers) around.

We'll post some pics soon- have built a slide-out crib into the bottom bunk in which others with babies might be interested. Thanks in advance for the help!
NEVER, EVER, jacks of any kind on the axles.

Use 6 jack stands.

2 on the back side of the A-frame.

2 at the back of the trailer, on the frame.

2 on the axle mount plates, between the tires.

Level the freezer shelf, not the trailer.

Mice can enter the trailer, sometimes near the city power cord inlet, or thru any other small hole.

Best bet is to examine the complete underbelly for any holes larger than 1/4 inch or so.

Andy
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Old 04-26-2012, 01:41 PM   #529
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Hello been out for a little bit. Have decided to have my roof resealed do to roof leaks. Roof looks good just the sealants around vents and skylight is dried and cracked. Call an airstream dealer and they want 600 bucks to remove old sealants and re-aplly cool coat sealant. Is this about right. They said they would remove everything, clean it and re-apply new cool coat and it would be around 600 bucks. Thanks for help. Any Pointers???
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:22 PM   #530
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My understanding is that a Kool Coat is a product that is used on may white boxes, when their rubberized roof is leaking and/or old. Since you had spoke to an Airstream dealer, perhaps that is a newer solution for leaks from unknown sources, covering the entire roof in the Kool Coat. A couple of years ago I had to replace my skylight which had begun to crack in the corners. At that time I also resealed all the caulk on the roof as well. The toilet vent was in need of caulk, all others were fine but received a coat of fresh caulk to be safe. My total time on the roof was only a couple of hours of labor, which was probable longer than a pro would take.
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Old 04-27-2012, 05:53 AM   #531
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Kool coat

I second the opinion on the Kool coat. It is a product that is used when a box type trailer rubber roof fails. It would be a shame to roll that product on the top of your Airstream. It is also used on mobile homes.

I would individually address each roof penetration.
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Old 04-27-2012, 11:56 PM   #532
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Ok talk to another dealer. They said the would remove everything and seal back each hole one by one. There price was $475 and it would be just like factory. Ordering a new skylight. Call AS for the correct part numbers for the
2005 bunkhouse. New sunroof is $123 from out of doors mart. Link 19.5 by 19.5 Skylight and Trim Kit 381318-050 [381318-050] - $124.95 : Out-of-Doors Mart!, More Airstream Parts on-line than anyone! since its 7 years old may be better to change.
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