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Old 01-28-2008, 09:33 AM
  #57
Corraleno
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  1967 17' Caravel
1959 17' Pacer
Corrales, New Mexico
Posts: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
Extreme makeover - hmmmm that would be really cool - think we can do it? Anyone want to volunteer their trailer ?? Hee Hee....

I'll certainly volunteer mine -- and the "demolition" phase has already been done, thanks to Mr Ray "Hot Shot Express" Reavis.

The frame has been redone, but other than that the trailer is as naked as you can get. Interior skins off, no electrics/plumbing/tanks, nada. We would love help with the bodywork (Aerowood has very kindly offered to source materials for us and fabricate a few things), running electric & plumbing lines and installing tanks (we've rehabbed a couple of houses but have zero experience with trailers), and getting the interior skins back up. We're willing to put in long hours and supply lots of food and beer!

Then it would at least be usable -- even if we were just sleeping on air matresses and using a cooler, at least we could get to a few more rallies this year!

(BTW, I sent in our application for the FCU via the main WBCCI website -- I hope that was the right way to do it.)
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Old 01-28-2008, 12:00 PM
  #58
Airstream25
Rivet Master
 
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Profile:  1995 25' Excella
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Posts: 536
applications are sent to the Unit

Corraleno,
Normally, applications are sent to the Unit. An exception would be if someone wanted to join the WBCCI as a Member At Large, MAL, with no unit affiliation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Corraleno
(BTW, I sent in our application for the FCU via the main WBCCI website -- I hope that was the right way to do it.)
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Four Corners Airstream Unit
AIR #10274 WBCCI # 2154
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Old 01-28-2008, 12:10 PM
  #59
Corraleno
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  1967 17' Caravel
1959 17' Pacer
Corrales, New Mexico
Posts: 51
Oops.

OK, I just went to the FCU website linked in your signature, and printed out the application form. Who do I make out the check to, and do I send it to the address on the form (Glendale, AZ)?

Thanks,
Jackie
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Old 01-28-2008, 12:13 PM
  #60
flyfshr
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Profile:  1959 24' Tradewind
Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 2,612
Hi Jackie and welcome. Make the check out to Four Corners Unit and send to me, Brad, at the address that's listed on the form. Hopefully its the Port Au Prince address.

Thanks and I look forward to meeting you.

Brad
FF
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Old 01-28-2008, 03:46 PM
  #61
gyandell
2 Rivet Member
 
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Profile:  1972 31' Sovereign
FAYETTEVILLE, Arkansas
Posts: 56
Ken, do you need to be a member of the WBCCI to participate in this rally. It is exactly what I'm looking for. I have a 72 Soveriegn that needs a lot of work. It has a lot of new replacement features. Heater, AC,hot water tank, but needs alot of repair work. Hope to be able to make it .

Sincerely, Gary Yandell
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Old 01-28-2008, 03:55 PM
  #62
Ken J
Rivet Master
Profile:  1958 26' Overlander
Tijeras, New Mexico
Posts: 2,226
Gary

I hope you can make it too - do you want me to put you on the list?

This is a "buddy" rally, so you don't have to be a member.

We like trailers that needs lots of work at this rally

Ken
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Old 01-28-2008, 04:10 PM
  #63
gyandell
2 Rivet Member
 
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Profile:  1972 31' Sovereign
FAYETTEVILLE, Arkansas
Posts: 56
Yes,please. I am getting more excited about this than I am March Madness, and I love NCAA Basketball.

Thanks, Gary Yandell
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Old 01-28-2008, 04:10 PM
  #64
Fyrzowt
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Profile:  2000 25' Safari
Templeton, California
Posts: 6,077
Status: Online
Quote:
I don't have first hand experience on removing silicon. I'm going to get some because I have some on my trailer. What I understand it is very tedious work with popcicle sticks and even peanut butter. In my case it seems to have hardened and just picks off.
I have used a 3-M product, oddly enough it's called "indoor outdoor caulk remover". It comes in a 8oz plastic bottle with a red and yellow label, and looks like white glue.
I had great success with it.
You apply it in a thick layer, completely covering the bead of caulking. Let set for at least 2 hours - I let mine set overnight.
I used a plastic putty knife to get the end loose, then the old caulk peeled off like a long worm. Almost no clean-up required.
Great stuff IMO.
Good luck, sounds like a great rally and a great theme.
Dave
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Old 01-28-2008, 04:11 PM
  #65
gyandell
2 Rivet Member
 
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Profile:  1972 31' Sovereign
FAYETTEVILLE, Arkansas
Posts: 56
P.S. That's my trailer.
Gary
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Old 01-28-2008, 04:20 PM
  #66
Ken J
Rivet Master
Profile:  1958 26' Overlander
Tijeras, New Mexico
Posts: 2,226
Gary

If you would send me your e-mail address, I'll put you on the list and make sure I send you updates.

Dave

Will have to pick up a bottle of that stuff and try it out!
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Old 01-28-2008, 04:49 PM
  #67
Corraleno
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  1967 17' Caravel
1959 17' Pacer
Corrales, New Mexico
Posts: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfshr
Hi Jackie and welcome. Make the check out to Four Corners Unit and send to me, Brad, at the address that's listed on the form. Hopefully its the Port Au Prince address.

Thanks and I look forward to meeting you.

Brad
FF
I sent it out this afternoon.
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Old 01-30-2008, 08:20 AM
  #68
AirstreamGypsy
4 Rivet Member
 
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Profile:  1961 16' Bambi
Mancos, Colorado
Posts: 295
Hi All

Thought I'd post a few photos of Bambi's problem spots... I need to gather a list of supplies I must bring in order to make these repairs. Olympic Rivets? Aluminum (thickness?), Vulkem, etc. etc.

There is the belly belt. This needs to be removed in order to get the belly pan off.

Then there is a crease in the belly pan under the doorway. Probably just a patch or mucho vulkem..

Then there is the rip by the wheel and the detachment of the pan from the wheel well. When driving through water it just gushes up into the pan and who know where else.

These are but a few of the issues to deal with in regard to the belly pan. Particularly worried about where the belly pan connect directly to the frame without the belly belt in between

This is a 1961 remember. Much different from the 70's units.

Let's see some other projected projects
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Old 01-30-2008, 12:25 PM
  #69
Ken J
Rivet Master
Profile:  1958 26' Overlander
Tijeras, New Mexico
Posts: 2,226
I would be curious what Aerowood has to say - If the belly is in otherwise good condition, I would tend to try and make a nice patch first. As far as the wrap goes - I would wrap a sheet of new metal over the old if thats possible - I would have to look at it - I also can't tell if you need a new piece of molding to go all around the wheel well without looking at it. On the wrap, you could remove all the rivets along the rivet line and slip a new piece of metal under the upper sheet then rerivet with olympics since you cannot get behind the sheet to use buck rivets. I would use as few olympics in that area as possible though...

Anyway, just my thoughts -

Ken J.
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Old 01-30-2008, 12:41 PM
  #70
Aerowood
Rivet Master
 
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Profile:  1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada, Colorado
Posts: 663
An external or "scab patch" properly installed wet with a sealent would be the easiest and most economic repair for both of the areas indicated.
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