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Old 05-28-2007, 05:51 AM   #1
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What is a good way to test gas lines...

OR should I even do it myself ...Should I have a Airstream tech do it...
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Old 05-28-2007, 06:12 AM   #2
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Do you still have the original non-OPD tanks on your Sovereign? They're probably too old to recertify. Some very handy folks will do the changeover themselves -- ask at a gas supply business or any RV tech can do the hose-end changeover.

Lighting the stove is the first step to charging up the lines under the trailer. Does it have a two-way fridge? Does the fridge work on gas? See this: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...call-2889.html. Only tackle a Suburban furnace refurb if you know exactly what you're doing. Otherwise a new one is the safer way to go. Water heater? My '74 Argosy HW heater was holed out and had to be replaced.

LP is denser than air -- get a separate LP detector and mount it at floor level. Of course you'll want a smoke & carbon monoxide detector mounted up high.
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Old 05-28-2007, 06:30 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrcrowley
OR should I even do it myself ...Should I have a Airstream tech do it...
You can test for gas leaks yourself but be sure to follow the safety precautions of testing in a well ventilated area, be sure there are no open flames or heat sources nearby and never use a match or other ignition source during the test.

For testing, we have successfully use a mixture of half liquid dish soap and half water. First turn the gas on and then brush the soap solution on the areas you want to test. Watch each area for bubbles which indicates a gas leak. No bubbles = no gas leak.

We test our propane tanks annually but putting the soap on all the tank welds and connections. We do our own propane piping work in our trailer so any threaded connections are tested after the work is completed.

Good luck!
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Old 05-28-2007, 07:26 AM   #4
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if you have a pressure gauge near your fridge you can charge the lines from the tanks, shut them off and see how long it takes to return to zero.

in your manual there should be a spec as to how long this should take.

the good thing about testing this way is it covers ALL parts of the system. vavles on appliances included.

you may even catch a pilot left open on your oven!

john
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Old 05-28-2007, 08:14 AM   #5
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The 'NON-EXPLOSIVE' way

Mrcrowly,

When I test an LP system for leaks, I disconnect the tanks and add a fitting to the hose end (usually compression) that has a Shrader valve on the other end and a pressure guage in the middle (T-connector). I then use a hand pump (like a bicycle pump) to charge the system with air.

This is called a 'bleed-down test' and I use it for LP and water systems. I usually put 10-20psi in the LP systems and 60psi in the water systems. Just fill it up and wait to see if the guage drops in pressure. If it does, get out the soapy water and start checking every joint that you can find.

I also use a very sophisticated electronic LP gas sniffer most times, but the soapy water and the tell-tale bubbles it produces at a leak work great also....just a little bit messy .
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Old 05-28-2007, 10:29 AM   #6
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How long do you monitor the pressure guage before you consider the system good? Thanks "Mac"
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Old 05-28-2007, 10:48 AM   #7
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Installing New LP Hoses

Along the same line, I'm just about to put longer LP connection hoses on both of Lucy's LP tanks (30#). I am doing this to be able to install fuel level gauges on each tank and be able to get the tank cover back on. I have noticed that the original hoses appear to have plumbers tape where they screw into the regulator. Should I use plumbers tape when I connect the new hoses to the regulator?
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Old 05-28-2007, 11:11 AM   #8
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What are you testing for leaks? flow?
Leaks? soapy water in a well ventilated area.
Flow hire a pro.
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Old 05-28-2007, 11:46 AM   #9
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Moosetags, use Teflon where there are tapered IPS threads. No tape on Oring, flare or reverse flare other than as a lubricant (just on the male threaded sections).
For residential applications the pressure test is 30# for 24 hours. Or you can do a drop test and a leak will show very fast. Be sure not to test with regulators in place as the diaphragm will likely leak.
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Old 05-28-2007, 12:14 PM   #10
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Thanks Phil!

You beat me to the punch! I usually leave the test rig on overnight and see if it lost any pressure. If it does, re-pressurize and start the leak location routine.

PS: I don't recommend ANY tape on flairs or compression fittings as the tape will inhibit the sealing action of the flair or compression. Like Phil said, only on tapered pipe. This goes for water fittings that use a saniprene gasket at the ends also.
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Old 05-28-2007, 12:38 PM   #11
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Well I am now testing all the gas appliance's

I removed cleaned and ran the furnace, Need to run the refrig,the hot water heater and the stove. Reason I want to check the gas line is it has been sitting with no use for almost 15 years . The trailer was used for my grandfather when he was alive to come visit my parents and kids. So it sat and the last two years the varmint ultrasound deterrent was shut off because the invisible pet fence guys cut the power line. So mice and squil infestation
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