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05-16-2013, 05:12 AM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1993 32' Excella
Jacksonville
, Florida
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 72
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Water heater won't shut off
Heading out for a beachfront campsite for memorial day weekend, still need to fix or maybe replace my water heater.
It is a 6 gal EI Atwood,in my '93 Excella, it sparks and comes on, kind of, the flame is very weak (it got us by for the last trip) but I had to shut off the gas supply every time, because it would not shut off- you can hear it shut down but the flame is still there (not a pilot it's EI)
I think the solenoid is hanging up,?? You can feel it click, I was connecting it manually, I lightly rapped on it with a small hammer, no luck, did it while it was coming on too. All connections seem to be good, ignitor and thermos seem to be working.
I was going to replace the solenoid valve, but it's $90, so I want to get some other ideas before I waste my money. Thought about trying to take the valve apart and clean it first, if that is possible??
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05-16-2013, 05:31 AM
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#2
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2 Rivet Member
1993 32' Excella
Jacksonville
, Florida
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 72
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Stove and grill worked fine, so I don't think its a supply problem??
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05-16-2013, 06:10 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2008 27' Classic FB
Burkburnett
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 985
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Depending on model, the gas valve should have 1 or 2 red wires going to it and maybe a green ground wire. The red wire(s) should connect to a thermostat switch and then from this switch to the control board. I would try cleaning and reseating these connections. I believe that this valve should open or close fully in the presence or absence of voltage and may have a failsafe mode where it remains fully closed for safety reasons. An obstruction in the gas supply or inadequate supply could account for the low flame, but in combination with the symptom that the valve doesn't close makes me believe the valve is faulty and should be considered a serious condition as this would allow the the WH to continue to heat up to the point where it would test the temperature pressure relief valve. You really don't want to use this WH until the problem has been resolved.
Try this, turn on the WH then once you have a flame, disconnect the red wire from the thermal switch. This should cause the valve to close immediately. If not, I would agree the valve is the problem. If it does close, then the control board needs further scrutiny along with resolving the low flame issue.
I really doubt that the valve is serviceable, likely a liability issue.... You may want to evaluate the age and overall condition of the WH. If you believe a part replacement will offer several more years of service, it is probably a worthwhile fix.
__________________
AIR 47751
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05-16-2013, 06:48 PM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member
1993 32' Excella
Jacksonville
, Florida
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 72
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I agree i have disconnected the valve power and it doesn't shut off, still a weak flame, that explains the temp fuse blowing (the one that looks like a resistor) that shows why you shouldn't bypass it! i think I'l replace the valve, if that's not it I will have a possible back up for the next WH- spend $100 trying not to spend $400 then you've spent $500.
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05-16-2013, 07:35 PM
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#5
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4 Rivet Member
2013 27' FB Classic
Clermont
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 431
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I replaced my Solenoid Valve
Quote:
Originally Posted by luvoldstuff
Heading out for a beachfront campsite for memorial day weekend, still need to fix or maybe replace my water heater.
It is a 6 gal EI Atwood,in my '93 Excella, it sparks and comes on, kind of, the flame is very weak (it got us by for the last trip) but I had to shut off the gas supply every time, because it would not shut off- you can hear it shut down but the flame is still there (not a pilot it's EI)
I think the solenoid is hanging up,?? You can feel it click, I was connecting it manually, I lightly rapped on it with a small hammer, no luck, did it while it was coming on too. All connections seem to be good, ignitor and thermos seem to be working.
I was going to replace the solenoid valve, but it's $90, so I want to get some other ideas before I waste my money. Thought about trying to take the valve apart and clean it first, if that is possible??
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I replaced my solenoid valve on my previous AS -- it was pretty straightforward, and took less than an hour.
Here is the link to that thread.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f445...ent-51524.html
Good Luck -- it is pretty easy.
PS the link to the Part on Ebay is no longer valid. Here is the part number I used
Atwood RV Water Heater Gas Valve DSI 93870
__________________
Tom & Lori
2013 27 FB Classic Limited
2019 Ford F250 King Ranch 6.7L Diesel
WBCCI 03288 TAC PA-17
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05-17-2013, 05:52 AM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
1993 32' Excella
Jacksonville
, Florida
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkowalyk
I replaced my solenoid valve on my previous AS -- it was pretty straightforward, and took less than an hour.
Here is the link to that thread.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f445...ent-51524.html
Good Luck -- it is pretty easy.
PS the link to the Part on Ebay is no longer valid. Here is the part number I used
Atwood RV Water Heater Gas Valve DSI 93870
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Did your heater have the same symptoms? not cutting off-low flame?
thanks
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05-18-2013, 05:31 AM
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#7
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4 Rivet Member
2013 27' FB Classic
Clermont
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luvoldstuff
Did your heater have the same symptoms? not cutting off-low flame?
thanks
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Flame coming out before main burner and low flame.
__________________
Tom & Lori
2013 27 FB Classic Limited
2019 Ford F250 King Ranch 6.7L Diesel
WBCCI 03288 TAC PA-17
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