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Old 03-07-2010, 05:01 PM   #1
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1968 24' Tradewind
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Exclamation Under trailer propane lines

While under the Trade Wind, I noticed that the propane lines have a couple issues. First, at the front end where it goes under the camper from the tanks, the line has been compressed. Everything works and I don't know if this is a safety issue or not. Second, one of the Junctions between two pieces is the wrong kind and needs repaired for sure.

I have to move the line some to install the new Bal stabilizers, so I am wondering if the smart money isn't to completely replace the main line.

If the answer to that is yes, what size tubing and of what type should I get? What is the best way to protect them against road rash in the future? Oh yeah, what is the proper size line coming off the main line to individual appliances?
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Old 03-07-2010, 07:02 PM   #2
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I am surprised people are being timid about weighing in on this one.
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Old 03-07-2010, 07:08 PM   #3
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Rodney,

On my Liner, I used 1/2" type L soft (under slab) copper for the main line. No branches since all appliances are on the same side. Up through the floor with the supply for the appliance. I used pipe insulation for protection of the soft copper.

Hope this helps.

Bill
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Old 03-07-2010, 07:38 PM   #4
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On my 75 TW the main line is 5/8" and the branches are 3/8". I do not have any protection on my lines and they have held up well for 35 years. I also do not travel as many forest roads as you do.
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Old 03-07-2010, 07:42 PM   #5
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To protect the lines, you can use rubber garden hose in a diameter to fit over the tubing. Cut it along its length in a spiral fashion (helps prevent the hose from working its way off the propane line) and fit it over the propane line.
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Old 03-07-2010, 08:26 PM   #6
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Rodney,

On my Liner, I used 1/2" type L soft (under slab) copper for the main line. No branches since all appliances are on the same side. Up through the floor with the supply for the appliance. I used pipe insulation for protection of the soft copper.

Hope this helps.

Bill
Protecting the copper gas line is a bad idea. If there is a leak, it will help pool the gas.
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Old 03-07-2010, 08:31 PM   #7
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Aren't we talking about protecting the lines that are on the underside of the coach?
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Old 03-07-2010, 08:36 PM   #8
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Aren't we talking about protecting the lines that are on the underside of the coach?
Yes and that is why they are under the coach. If they leak the gas dispurses. It is also bare so you can inspect them for corrision.
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Old 03-07-2010, 08:37 PM   #9
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Protecting the copper gas line is a bad idea. If there is a leak, it will help pool the gas.
I realize that I have an accountants mind, but I am not sure where the gas would pool in a 1/2" pipe insulation. I am sure that you could put the split to the bottom and since propane is heavier than air, it would settle out into the atmosphere. My 1979 Safari has something similar to the pipe insulation. In addition, the insulation gives one something to attach the straps holding the line against the belly pan without the possibility of chaffing.

Bill
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Old 03-07-2010, 08:57 PM   #10
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in 24yrs I've never had a problem with uncovered lines.
Just something else to remove for inspection.

Be aware that there is always the possibility of damaging a line and not being able to see it because of a garden hoser...
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Old 03-07-2010, 09:09 PM   #11
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I just finished replacing the lines on the Bambi today. I used half inch copper for the main and three eights for the three branches. Under the trailer I slid plastic ( the black stuff with the split along its length, used for wrapping electical wires) it looks great and it protects with no danger of gas buildup.
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Old 03-08-2010, 12:57 AM   #12
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Our Tradewind's lines are also somewhat crimped along the underside of the tongue; clearly someone put a jack or jack stand under there at one point.

That's one spot that could use a little protection. or the copper pipe run along the inside face of the tongue rather than the bottom.

One nice way of protecting the line would be to cut some 1 & 1/4" pipe lengthwise and weld it open side up to the underside of the tongue; this would provide a crush proof runway for the copper tube.

Alternatively, two lengths of 3/4" x 1/4" welded on edge would also work, but would not be as strong.

- Bart
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Old 03-08-2010, 07:28 AM   #13
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I realize that I have an accountants mind, but I am not sure where the gas would pool in a 1/2" pipe insulation. I am sure that you could put the split to the bottom and since propane is heavier than air, it would settle out into the atmosphere. My 1979 Safari has something similar to the pipe insulation. In addition, the insulation gives one something to attach the straps holding the line against the belly pan without the possibility of chaffing.

Bill
Remove the insulation and install cushioned Adel clamps. The insulation will increase corrosion since it traps water.
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Old 03-08-2010, 07:53 AM   #14
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Black pipe is also code for propane
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:08 AM   #15
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Wouldn't black pipe be to rigid, and tend to rust?
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:34 AM   #16
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Thumbs up Another option...

THIS might be a viable option for those who require a more robust LPG line.
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:53 AM   #17
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My '74 Argosy has copper gas lines. The main line is crushed near the hitch as well. I plan to replace that portion of the line to the first joint with copper, just rerouting it some to prevent damage from a jack or equalizer hitch. While some of the clamps holding the line to the bottom of the trailer have come lose, the line itself is still intact. It looks to me that when AS installed the line, they just riveted the clamps kind of willy nilly to the belly pan. There will be a lot better support when I get under there, the clamps will be attached to the frame members. No protective cover though, I want to be able to check for damage simply by looking under the trailer.
There are different kinds of copper tubing, make sure you read the application info on the box or package. Some are not rated for gas.
My '69 Shasta has 1/2" black iron. 41 years and there is no significant signs of rust.
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:31 AM   #18
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You know, Rodney, the old copper pipe on ours is pretty similar, including a compressed spot. Everything still works, sooo ....

I turned on the gas, made sure that there was gas in the line, and then slowly crawled along the length of the whole thing, sniffing every inch of the line, especially at joints. No leaks.

We decided to leave well enough alone.


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Old 03-08-2010, 09:45 AM   #19
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If you are going to replace, use air conditioner copper,it is cleaned and capped,also no cover on the pipe,it can hold the salt water,which will make short work of the copper.Also don`t forget about electralous[miss sp],copper should not touch iron,not sure about aluminum,but I think not.Use the clamps with the rubber insulation. Dave
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Old 03-08-2010, 11:27 AM   #20
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We had propane lines installed Saturday (by a RV mechanic). He used 1/2" and 3/8" soft copper. He also said black pipe would work. Black pipe is cheaper, but with labor cost, I thought the copper would be quicker to install.
No wrapping, but used rubber hose for protection where line goes thru brackets.
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