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Lumatic · 03-08-2010, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Birdwell57

Wouldn't black pipe be to rigid, and tend to rust?

First, I have not done it, just guessing, but have used black pipe for propane in other outdoor applications.

Too rigid? I don't think so. Would solve the crush problem though. Rust? yes, but I never saw black pipe rust through. I don't think black pipe is more rigid or rusts any quicker than your frame and axles.

wahoonc · 03-08-2010, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azflycaster

On my 75 TW the main line is 5/8" and the branches are 3/8". I do not have any protection on my lines and they have held up well for 35 years. I also do not travel as many forest roads as you do.

These is the same sizes that are on my 1975 and my 1980.

I am away from my manuals. I do recall that the LP lantern uses 1/4" and all the feed lines have shut off valves on the under side of the trailer.

Aaron

Boondocker · 03-08-2010, 06:10 PM

I see there is type L and construction grade, coil and pipe. Is there an important difference in grade? Should I use pipe or coil for the main line, or does it matter?

wkerfoot · 03-08-2010, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gen Disarray

I see there is type L and construction grade, coil and pipe. Is there an important difference in grade? Should I use pipe or coil for the main line, or does it matter?

Rodney,

There probably is a difference, I used Type L.

Bill

Boondocker · 03-08-2010, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wkerfoot

Rodney,

There probably is a difference, I used Type L.

Bill

Is it a camper goes boom difference? I'd sort of like to avoid that.

ROBERT CROSS · 03-08-2010, 07:05 PM

Rodney,

Think construction grade is the thicker under floor tubers...L is real flexy.

Ellie & Carl · 03-30-2010, 10:19 AM

Black pipe will rust to a point... then the collected rust actually acts to seal the pipe. That's why you never see black pipe rust through. I'm glad I found this thread, as I was leaning toward replacing my main line with the black pipe. I've done a lot of gas/propane piping and used black pipe for the main delivery line - even in direct bury situations - then used copper with in-line shut-offs for each appliance.
If it can handle being buried in the ground, I suspect it will do nicely on the underside of an AS.
One more thing just occurred to me: I had a 1963 Ideal travel trailer and its gas was hard piped right up to the appliances... just as if it were in a stick-built house. Short run... furnace, stove and refer only and all forward of the axles. I don't know if it was original or re-done... but that's how it was when I bought her.

easyride · 03-31-2010, 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Rodney,

Think construction grade is the thicker under floor tubers...L is real flexy.

What are you calling construction grade ? L copper is is the industry standard,unless it is a Government job and a crazy architect designates K copper,both can be bought as hard 20' lengths,or soft 60' lengths,but you can only flare soft copper. Dave

easyride · 03-31-2010, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ellie & Carl

Black pipe will rust to a point... then the collected rust actually acts to seal the pipe. That's why you never see black pipe rust through. I'm glad I found this thread, as I was leaning toward replacing my main line with the black pipe. I've done a lot of gas/propane piping and used black pipe for the main delivery line - even in direct bury situations - then used copper with in-line shut-offs for each appliance.
If it can handle being buried in the ground, I suspect it will do nicely on the underside of an AS.
One more thing just occurred to me: I had a 1963 Ideal travel trailer and its gas was hard piped right up to the appliances... just as if it were in a stick-built house. Short run... furnace, stove and refer only and all forward of the axles. I don't know if it was original or re-done... but that's how it was when I bought her.

Don`t know what code is used in Wa,I have been a plumber in several different states,only way I`ve ever been able to bury black pipe was to tape with asphalt tape
then paint with asphalt,another way was plastic coated pipe,then tape and paint the joints. Dave

gmwelder86 · 04-04-2010, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by easyride

What are you calling construction grade ? L copper is is the industry standard,unless it is a Government job and a crazy architect designates K copper,both can be bought as hard 20' lengths,or soft 60' lengths,but you can only flare soft copper. Dave

you can flare hard copper you just have to aneal it first to make it soft.

silverleeper · 04-04-2010, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmwelder86

you can flare hard copper you just have to aneal it first to make it soft.

I had to look this up.

Good info though. Thanks!

YouTube - Copper Annealing

the544man · 04-22-2010, 05:51 PM

what about copper tibing sizes? I'm rebuilding a bubble and have the same copper tubing size question. is there a flow problem if 3/8" is used from the dual regulater and branched off for 3 things. i will be hooking up a princess stove, norcold fridge, and a catalytic heater all of which have 3/8" fittings. do i need to use 1/2" for more flow under the trailer untill i get it through the trailer and reduce it down for the fittings? regards--ted

barts · 04-23-2010, 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the544man

what about copper tibing sizes? I'm rebuilding a bubble and have the same copper tubing size question. is there a flow problem if 3/8" is used from the dual regulater and branched off for 3 things. i will be hooking up a princess stove, norcold fridge, and a catalytic heater all of which have 3/8" fittings. do i need to use 1/2" for more flow under the trailer untill i get it through the trailer and reduce it down for the fittings? regards--ted

Here's a chart that explains it.

Add up the BTU/hr ratings for your three appliances and see. Looks like you'll be fine, off the top of my head, but do the math.

- Bart