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Old 03-08-2010, 09:08 AM   #15
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Wouldn't black pipe be to rigid, and tend to rust?
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:34 AM   #16
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Thumbs up Another option...

THIS might be a viable option for those who require a more robust LPG line.
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:53 AM   #17
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My '74 Argosy has copper gas lines. The main line is crushed near the hitch as well. I plan to replace that portion of the line to the first joint with copper, just rerouting it some to prevent damage from a jack or equalizer hitch. While some of the clamps holding the line to the bottom of the trailer have come lose, the line itself is still intact. It looks to me that when AS installed the line, they just riveted the clamps kind of willy nilly to the belly pan. There will be a lot better support when I get under there, the clamps will be attached to the frame members. No protective cover though, I want to be able to check for damage simply by looking under the trailer.
There are different kinds of copper tubing, make sure you read the application info on the box or package. Some are not rated for gas.
My '69 Shasta has 1/2" black iron. 41 years and there is no significant signs of rust.
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:31 AM   #18
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You know, Rodney, the old copper pipe on ours is pretty similar, including a compressed spot. Everything still works, sooo ....

I turned on the gas, made sure that there was gas in the line, and then slowly crawled along the length of the whole thing, sniffing every inch of the line, especially at joints. No leaks.

We decided to leave well enough alone.


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Old 03-08-2010, 10:45 AM   #19
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If you are going to replace, use air conditioner copper,it is cleaned and capped,also no cover on the pipe,it can hold the salt water,which will make short work of the copper.Also don`t forget about electralous[miss sp],copper should not touch iron,not sure about aluminum,but I think not.Use the clamps with the rubber insulation. Dave
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Old 03-08-2010, 12:27 PM   #20
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We had propane lines installed Saturday (by a RV mechanic). He used 1/2" and 3/8" soft copper. He also said black pipe would work. Black pipe is cheaper, but with labor cost, I thought the copper would be quicker to install.
No wrapping, but used rubber hose for protection where line goes thru brackets.
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Old 03-08-2010, 06:44 PM   #21
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Quote:
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Wouldn't black pipe be to rigid, and tend to rust?
First, I have not done it, just guessing, but have used black pipe for propane in other outdoor applications.

Too rigid? I don't think so. Would solve the crush problem though. Rust? yes, but I never saw black pipe rust through. I don't think black pipe is more rigid or rusts any quicker than your frame and axles.
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Old 03-08-2010, 06:50 PM   #22
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On my 75 TW the main line is 5/8" and the branches are 3/8". I do not have any protection on my lines and they have held up well for 35 years. I also do not travel as many forest roads as you do.
These is the same sizes that are on my 1975 and my 1980.

I am away from my manuals. I do recall that the LP lantern uses 1/4" and all the feed lines have shut off valves on the under side of the trailer.

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Old 03-08-2010, 07:10 PM   #23
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I see there is type L and construction grade, coil and pipe. Is there an important difference in grade? Should I use pipe or coil for the main line, or does it matter?
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Old 03-08-2010, 07:37 PM   #24
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I see there is type L and construction grade, coil and pipe. Is there an important difference in grade? Should I use pipe or coil for the main line, or does it matter?
Rodney,

There probably is a difference, I used Type L.

Bill
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Old 03-08-2010, 07:42 PM   #25
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Rodney,

There probably is a difference, I used Type L.

Bill
Is it a camper goes boom difference? I'd sort of like to avoid that.
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:05 PM   #26
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Rodney,

Think construction grade is the thicker under floor tubers...L is real flexy.
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Old 03-30-2010, 11:19 AM   #27
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Black pipe will rust to a point... then the collected rust actually acts to seal the pipe. That's why you never see black pipe rust through. I'm glad I found this thread, as I was leaning toward replacing my main line with the black pipe. I've done a lot of gas/propane piping and used black pipe for the main delivery line - even in direct bury situations - then used copper with in-line shut-offs for each appliance.
If it can handle being buried in the ground, I suspect it will do nicely on the underside of an AS.
One more thing just occurred to me: I had a 1963 Ideal travel trailer and its gas was hard piped right up to the appliances... just as if it were in a stick-built house. Short run... furnace, stove and refer only and all forward of the axles. I don't know if it was original or re-done... but that's how it was when I bought her.
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Old 03-31-2010, 03:27 PM   #28
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Quote:
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Rodney,

Think construction grade is the thicker under floor tubers...L is real flexy.
What are you calling construction grade ? L copper is is the industry standard,unless it is a Government job and a crazy architect designates K copper,both can be bought as hard 20' lengths,or soft 60' lengths,but you can only flare soft copper. Dave
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