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Old 07-04-2006, 07:45 PM   #15
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Tim,
Power tools!
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Old 07-04-2006, 10:02 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster
Tim,
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More Power! Tim the Tool Man!

Well, I got a little ahead. I got the vanity out and the black tank out with the toilet base still attached....

Now what? I still need to get the toilet base off. Should I just run a hack saw between the board and toilet base? I could see that taking all day
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Old 07-05-2006, 01:20 AM   #17
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Think sawsall tim ,very fast ,they make long blades ,if you do not own one ,then you deserve one ,so go get one right away!!

Scott
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Old 07-05-2006, 01:30 AM   #18
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Hello Safari Tim,

I posted a message here and I don't know wher it went ?? Saw around the
old valve with a sawsall outward some to clear the valve .Leaving the new hole .Inland rv should have a base fitting to glass onto the tank ,the same way as I posted to you before ,use heavier fiberglass matt for strength.
you rv store may have it as well ,you will need a fitting that all the rest of the elbows and such ,whatever you will use will attach too .I would recommend not having the plumbing hanging down under the trailer
if at all possible ,road hazards and such .Once you have cut out the old valve
and you have new fitting in hand ,go about getting the hole size in the tank
shaped for the new size fitting opening.so be careful as to not go too large cutting the old valve out .That tank looks like it may have been leaking at the bottom there ,but the new fiberglass work will fix all that .

Scott
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Old 07-05-2006, 06:03 AM   #19
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Under the epoxy, or caulk, or fiberglass, or whatever that stuff is, there are four bolts and nuts holding the valve to the tank. If you are lucky, they will unscrew. I was not, and had to drill the bolts out. Grind the bolts off flush with the tank, then drill 4 new holes in the tank, centered around the hole. Install 4 stainless blots, each with rubber washers and stainless flat washers inside the tank, and bolt the new valve on with 4 nuts and washers.
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Old 07-05-2006, 11:02 AM   #20
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Terry, should I even mess with it then? I was thinking of just cutting the valve off at the tank and add the new hole for a new fitting like you did?

Did you fiberglass over your fitting after you bolted it on? Any pictures?



Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Under the epoxy, or caulk, or fiberglass, or whatever that stuff is, there are four bolts and nuts holding the valve to the tank. If you are lucky, they will unscrew. I was not, and had to drill the bolts out. Grind the bolts off flush with the tank, then drill 4 new holes in the tank, centered around the hole. Install 4 stainless blots, each with rubber washers and stainless flat washers inside the tank, and bolt the new valve on with 4 nuts and washers.
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Old 07-05-2006, 11:16 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Terry, should I even mess with it then? I was thinking of just cutting the valve off at the tank and add the new hole for a new fitting like you did?

Did you fiberglass over your fitting after you bolted it on? Any pictures?
I used the original 2" hole in the bottom of the black tank. I just centered the new valve, and drilled the holes to match the new Valterra valve. I had to cut off the original mounting bolts anyway, since they were rusted so bad they wouldn't budge. I made sure I left the bolts in the bottom of the tank, just ground off flush with the tank so they wouldn't interfere with the new valve. I didn't fiberglass over anything, as I wanted to be able to remove the valve in the future for repair if needed.
I have the trailer at home, if it isn't raining when I get home, I can take a couple of pictures up through the gap in the belly pan for your perusal.
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Old 07-05-2006, 03:05 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
I have the trailer at home, if it isn't raining when I get home, I can take a couple of pictures up through the gap in the belly pan for your perusal.
That would be great Terry. I look forward to seeing the pictures.

I took my tank to a buddy who has lots of power tools!

We used his sawsall and cut the base of the toilet off under the plywood. Except for putting a small chip hole in the top with the saw it came off pretty nicely.

We also cut off the 2" dump valve. Then I used his grinder to grind down the two metal fitings flush with the tank.

So it should be ready to put on the new fittings. I'll need to glass a repair to the take where we nicked it and add a vent connection to the tank.

I'll post some photos tonight.
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Old 07-05-2006, 06:37 PM   #23
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You asked for it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
That would be great Terry. I look forward to seeing the pictures.
Here is the promised photo (I took more, but only one was in focus). You are looking directly up at the bottom of the black tank, one of the former valve mounting bolts is visible almost next to the new stainless mounting bolt:
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Old 07-05-2006, 06:43 PM   #24
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Also, here is a photo of the vent area of our black tank, it looks like it would be easy to duplicate. The white PVC pipe running to the vent is the drain for the kitchen sink. The second black PVC pipe is the vent for the bathroom sink and tub. We are trying to keep the nastiest stuff in the black tank:
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Old 07-05-2006, 07:12 PM   #25
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Terry,

Thanks for the pictures. Is that flange on the tank bottom metal? Does it have a gasket? Is the white pipe glued to it?

Here are the photos after my friend help me cut off the toilet base and metal dump valve. I used his grinder to smooth it out. We did chip the edge of the tank so I will have to patch that.

The first two are the bottom and then a close up. The next two are the top.

Does the old toilet and valve have any ebay value? We cut the base off in such a way it could be reused.

Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Here is the promised photo (I took more, but only one was in focus). You are looking directly up at the bottom of the black tank, one of the former valve mounting bolts is visible almost next to the new stainless mounting bolt:
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Old 07-05-2006, 07:14 PM   #26
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My mistake Safari tim ,

I didn't realize there were bolts to undo as over63 pointed out .I never had to
remove my valve ,makes sense not to glass any fitting on as bolting it
with a seal under the valve ,im sure there is one for it .Just make sure there no cracks causing any seepage .Mine looked like fiberglass when I was
repairing the shaft leak .Now fixed.

Scott

Looking good!
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Old 07-05-2006, 07:22 PM   #27
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Well Tim ,
that looks all fiberglasses as mine is .I believe you will need the surface to
be flat to bolt on any new fitting .Over 63 stated going thru to the original
plate and bolts ,and prepare a new surface , the best no leak start is to do just that .Otherwise it will be glassing it right there in place ,although
permanent ,bolting would allow( as posted )future ease of removal .

Scott
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Old 07-05-2006, 07:23 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Terry,

Thanks for the pictures. Is that flange on the tank bottom metal? Does it have a gasket? Is the white pipe glued to it?
The flange that was in the tank had a metal flat sealing area on it. I used the gasket that came with the Valterra valve, with a 2" adapter and gasket that is needed to glue the PVC to it. The adapter bolted on the valve with the same bolts that hold the valve on.
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