This can't be normal?

[Mr & Mrs S]

Ok I was looking into doing some painting on the tongue of my AS when I noticed that the gas line was mashed flat under the A-frame.



I haven't had much experiance with gas lines, can I make a splice alittle further back or does the entire line have to be replaced?

Also,

This is strange to me, but when I let the gas line down a very thick dark colored oil began to flow out of the gas line.....

It also has a horrible smell.

Is this normal, really dont see how it can be.

How would one go about cleaning out the lines or what is the needed action I should take next?

[Condoluminum]

Found this in thread from 2010.. At least you are not alone..

"Propane is a petroleum by-product (or natural gas processing, which is not relevant here) - it is a specific fraction and no fraction is 100% pure. Over time, a very small amount of the heavier fractions will settle out and make a light, oily residue. Over many years, this residue can become quite thick, even tar-like. It is non-hazardous."

As for splicing into line, I believe it depends on quality of remainder of line.. There are fittings you could attach to cut end, and splice, but I suspect new line would be safer bet.. Others who have more experience with propane hard lines may want to weigh in...

[vinstream]

My guess once you dig into the replacement parts it would be cheaper and easier to replace the entire section! Plus you are reducing the number of joints and areas of leaks!

Todd

[Wingeezer]

I found the same problem on the 2005 AS we bought -ooked as though someone had put a jack under it!

Surprisingly all appliances were still working, but I suspect in colder weather when propane pressures were lower there could have been problems.

I replaced the line myself back to the first union. I wouldn't have considered doing less.

The pipe is cheap enough, so why introduce extra joints that could be another source of leaks?!

Just my thoughts!

Brian.

[eubank]

Ours is a bit flattened, too, but so far (many years down the road) everything seems to be working well, and the pipe isn't leaking. Good enough for me!

Lynn

[Mr & Mrs S]

Thanks for the replies everyone, guess tomorrow I will look at replacing the line and not doing a splice.

Glad to know that the oil is nothing hazardous or dangerous.
Should I try and blow the oil out of the lines while I have the lines disconnected? Seems like this would be a good time to clean the pipes.

[Aage]

That oil IS the smell. I forget the name of it, and don't bother looking it up, I'll forget it in five minutes but that's what they put in the gas so that you will smell it when you have a leak. It accumulates with time in your gaslines.

If you do the replacement yourself, remember two things:

• Get the special yellow joint tape, don't use the usual white plumber's tape.
• Also check very thoroughly for leaks. You can buy a little bottle with a soapy tester fluid, or some people just use a bit of dish detergent.

I would replace the section, get yourself a clean main pipe!

[Mr & Mrs S]

Originally Posted by Aage

That oil IS the smell. I forget the name of it, and don't bother looking it up, I'll forget it in five minutes but that's what they put in the gas so that you will smell it when you have a leak. It accumulates with time in your gaslines.


If you do the replacement yourself, remember two things:

• Get the special yellow joint tape, don't use the usual white plumber's tape.
• Also check very thoroughly for leaks. You can buy a little bottle with a soapy tester fluid, or some people just use a bit of dish detergent.

I would replace the section, get yourself a clean main pipe!

Thanks for the info, I learned something new today. Had no idea the oil is the smell.

Ill be sure to look for the yellow tape and Ill be SURE to check for leaks.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by Aage

or some people just use a bit of dish detergent

That dish detergent can be corrosive, and some ingredients don't play nice with LP.

[Aage]

Originally Posted by overlander63

That dish detergent can be corrosive, and some ingredients don't play nice with LP.

Ah! I dint know that. Then stick with the li'l bottle that's purpose-made for this job. That's what I did...

[casa3805]

Sounds like you have already decided to replace the entire section. Good. With age, copper tubing becomes much less pliable and a bit harder to work with around curves and such. (when you try to bend it a bit, it creases instead) You are much better off replacing the whole section. Probably going to need a flaring tool. available at Lowes/Home Depot... Do definitely use the yellow tape. But all in all, one of the easy things to attack...

[Wingeezer]

Originally Posted by Aage

That oil IS the smell. I forget the name of it, and don't bother looking it up, I'll forget it in five minutes but that's what they put in the gas so that you will smell it when you have a leak. It accumulates with time in your gaslines.

If you do the replacement yourself, remember two things:

• Get the special yellow joint tape, don't use the usual white plumber's tape.
• Also check very thoroughly for leaks. You can buy a little bottle with a soapy tester fluid, or some people just use a bit of dish detergent.

I would replace the section, get yourself a clean main pipe!

Just curious - isn't the teflon tape only for tapered pipe thread joints? I have never used any kind of tape for flared fittings due to the nature of the way the seal is achieved.

Brian

[Disneysue925]

Originally Posted by Aage

That oil IS the smell. I forget the name of it, and don't bother looking it up, I'll forget it in five minutes but that's what they put in the gas so that you will smell it when you have a leak. It accumulates with time in your gaslines.

If you do the replacement yourself, remember two things:

• Get the special yellow joint tape, don't use the usual white plumber's tape.
• Also check very thoroughly for leaks. You can buy a little bottle with a soapy tester fluid, or some people just use a bit of dish detergent.

I would replace the section, get yourself a clean main pipe!

The "smell" is Mercaptan. Didn't look it up. Just one of the random bits of useless knowledge cluttering my brain. Maybe now that I let it out I'll remember where I put my keys......

Sue

[Aage]

Originally Posted by Wingeezer

Just curious - isn't the teflon tape only for tapered pipe thread joints? I have never used any kind of tape for flared fittings due to the nature of the way the seal is achieved.

Brian

Yes, and he showed a threaded joint in his photo. You are right about the flared fittings; no tape.

[wasagachris]

Originally Posted by Aage

Yes, and he showed a threaded joint in his photo. You are right about the flared fittings; no tape.

Aage Really? Look closer! That IS a flare fitting. It is a male flare elbow.
Please be careful commenting about issues regarding gas or electrical. You may end up facing a lawsuit.

[timmaah]

Originally Posted by wasagachris

Aage Really? Look closer! That IS a flare fitting. It is a male flare elbow.
Please be careful commenting about issues regarding gas or electrical. You may end up facing a lawsuit.

I'd love to see the look on a judges face when you tell him you are suing flanders over incorrect advice on an internet forum.

[worldinchaos]

Originally Posted by Disneysue925

The "smell" is Mercaptan. Didn't look it up. Just one of the random bits of useless knowledge cluttering my brain. Maybe now that I let it out I'll remember where I put my keys......

Sue

I'm not sure if the industry standard is vague enough to allow different odorants to be used, but I know for a fact we use ethyl mercaptan to odorize propane (supply equivalent to about half of Los Angeles market). Ethyl mercaptan is a colorless chemical with highly perceptible odor. I guarantee if it was condensing out of vapor phase that you wouldn't even be able to stand near that pool of liquid without gagging or running away. People who get it on their clothing here change and throw it away because it never comes out. Also, based on the ppm level that is injected, that would mean that a HUGE portion of the chemical condensed out.

My suspicion? One of the propane suppliers that was used at some point with those tanks had a lower grade material than standard, and some heavier butane components got in there. Those could have condensed out easily, especially given some temperature swings and time not being used. That could have allowed vaporized ethyl mercaptan to condense out into the butane phase in small quantities.

I know this really doesn't change anything, but it's fun to apply my little job knowledge to real-life problems.

[Aage]

Originally Posted by wasagachris

Please be careful commenting about issues regarding gas or electrical. You may end up facing a lawsuit.

Chris,

Please don't sue me. If this is a flared fitting (and I bow to your expertise and eyesight), then I am badly in need of better glasses.

[Mr & Mrs S]

Not trying to stir up a mess, just thought I'd give you guys a better view of the fitting.

Just left the hardware Store with new copper line and fittings

[Aage]

Mr & Mrs S,

Thanks for posting a clearer shot of that fitting. I think that Chris is definitely right in that it is a flared fitting. It is my understanding that this type of fitting makes the seal in the flare part and not in the threaded part.

However, if some dumb amateur (somebody like me) used the yellow tape on the threaded part of the fitting, is there any risk that it would interfere with the seal?

Just curious. I recently replaced my regulator, and the fittings I used the yellow tape on were threaded. I replaced the WHITE tape that was erroneously used there with the proper yellow tape.

But what I'm wondering is, if I was doing the job that the Smiths are, and applied some yellow tape to the threaded part of the flared fitting, could there be a problem?