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Old 09-16-2011, 12:15 PM   #21
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The risks? Over-tightening and splitting the nut or shearing the threads off so they give way gradually over time... Or, the nut backing off overtime, constantly, every time the temperature changes or it experiences vibration. It's designed around friction, friction is your friend on a flared fitting - and teflon is the second slipperiest substance known to man save ice with a film of water on it. (like going outdoors with the soles of shoes warm and stepping on glaze ice at the top of the stairs, frictionless!)
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Old 09-16-2011, 12:35 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage View Post
Chris,

Please don't sue me. If this is a flared fitting (and I bow to your expertise and eyesight), then I am badly in need of better glasses.
Aage I certainly won't be suing you, but you can guarantee that some lawyer will be looking for someone to blame and collect a big fat fee for getting cash for somebody.
If you have noticed I don't post much advice regarding these type of issues unless I feel the person in really capable and even then I really limit my advice and suggest they let a professional do it for them.
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Old 09-16-2011, 01:07 PM   #23
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Well I would never try and sue someone over advise from a forum. There has to be a line for common sense and capable boundaries at some point. Not tryin to say y'all were talking about me in general.
I just like to get different views the come up with my own solution. So technically I'm at fault in the end if something goes wrong.
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Old 09-16-2011, 03:52 PM   #24
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Using teflon tape on a flare fitting won't do any good and might do harm. Any time you use it be careful it does not get into the line, a little piece can foul any valve it gets into. Could cause a slow leak of gas in the trailer.
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Old 09-16-2011, 04:15 PM   #25
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I just removed the old line and 4 fittings, none of them had any sort of teflon on them. I'm pretty sure this is factory piping.
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Old 09-19-2011, 07:35 AM   #26
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We just got back from a trip. 5 hours of road time and not all of it great roads. When we pulled in I could smell the gas. Quick crawl underneath with my handy "dollar store Bubble solution" (normally used by kids to make big bubbles) and found the leak. It was coming from a flared fitting I had done about 6 months back. No one to blame but myself. Quick tweak with the wrench an all was well.

So...even when you are done, if you are handy/unhandy like me , you may want to check it on occasion just to be sure all is still well.

Have fun!
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Old 10-04-2011, 05:46 AM   #27
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Propane pipe?

Speaking of replacing some propane line: The copper lines on my '69 AS are much thicker than the copper tubing available at the hardware store, and hence much more resistant to undercarraige damage, I think.
Is there a special pipe for propane, or will regular copper tubing in the plumbing department work? I asked one of the "helpful" orange vests at the hardware store and got a generic answer (deer-in-the-headlight stare, of course ).
I'm starting to think the only qualification to work in a hardware store is knowing North and South (Comin' to work, and a-goin' home. ).

So will regular copper tubing work? I already have a flaring tool.
Thanks!
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Old 10-04-2011, 08:02 AM   #28
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Copper tubing is designed for specific uses. Go to one of the big box stores. They should have it in boxes of 25' and the box will give info on what the tubing is designed for; ie refrigeration etc.
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Old 10-06-2011, 09:28 AM   #29
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There is nothing special about the line. Plain water grade pipe is fine. You can get yellow coated copper from Mcmaster.com. The yellow identifies it as a gas line and the coating also helps protect the pipe from corrsion and chaffing. You have to strip the yellow coating off before using a fitting. The copper lines are good for several hundred psi and you are using about 5psi. The same type of 37 degree flare fittings are used in aerospace applications all the time. You don't need tape or seals other than a good flare on your tubing. If the flare is split or damaged you need to cut it off and make a new one. Soapy water is great for checking leaks and you need to check all joints after making repairs. Copper and brass are not going to be harmed by the soap but you can wash it off if you like. If you need to use tapered pipe threads (NPT) on something use teflon of whatever color you like and use one layer. More layers and it will bunch up and not seal. Use only brass or stainless steel pipe fittings.

The main reason for the overkill on the lines is in case the regulator fails in which case you have about 100psi to deal with.

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Old 10-06-2011, 10:55 AM   #30
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I'm quite sure it is a flared fitting!!
If you are handy with a flaring tool .
I would consider making it a double flare.
Some times single flares have a tendency of cracking over time.
I used to do a lot of flaring of copper pipes on older buses .
We always double flared so lines wouldn't break!!!
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:00 AM   #31
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Copper pipes used for propane applications are thicker.
To reduce breakage. A lot more sturdy!!!
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:24 AM   #32
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Copper pipe has gotten cheaper and cheaper and thinner and thinner walled. The stuff in my house rotted in less than 20yrs but they used the cheap stuff. About half way down on this page you will see the yellow coated copper gas line.

http://www.motorcycleproducts.org/AS...opper-Pipe.pdf

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