Running new LP gas lines

[photocodo]

Im a little confused and seem to be finding contradicting information, hopefully someone can help. While rebuilding my 64 tradewind, I am going to be running all new LP lines. The current lines have been removed so I cant just retrace the old lines. I have the original diagrams from the owners manual and I know where my new range, fridge, water heater etc will be placed,so I know the general path that they will take.

My first question is "where do the lines run?" Above the subfloor, between the subfloor and belly pan, or under the belly pan?

My second question is "what do I use for the lines?" Copper? is there a flexible line that can be used?

Thank you for your help and clarification in this matter. You will truly be a help for me.

photocodo

[Wabbiteer]

Coil copper and double flare fittings is as safe as you can get - all lines on exterior belly panels until the stub in to the fed appliance for safety reasons - exact routing is open for discussion - armoring the bare copper with garden hose or other impact absorbing shell material is often used...

[68 TWind]

I have a 68 TW. A "trunk" line runs down the middle of my trailer with t-fittings for smaller lines to each appliance. The lines are held to the bottom of the belly pan with pieces of aluminum folded around the copper and riveted to the belly pan. Very simple but it has worked for 41 years on my trailer.

[Kevin245]

Do not route the lines inside the trailer, or in between the floor and the belly skins. In the event of a leak you'll want to minimize the chance of any vapor build up in enclosed spaces.

We have a steel pipe trunk line that ends with a Tee connection. The copper feeders come off the Tee routing to the various appliances.

Use copper with flare connections, and mount the copper tubing to the roadside of the belly skin with rubber padded holders to prevent chaffing.

Regards,

Kevin

[HowieE]

The routing along the underside of the belly pan is your choice. Just pick whatever suits your needs. Make sure you use 1/2 in piping for the trunk line and branch off that with 3/8 to feed individual appliances.

While bare soft copper is used in most manufacturing there is a yellow covered copper designed for burial that you may want to consider since the lines under the trailer will be exposed to weather.

[Blanchard]

We have the same trailer and it's mostly intact. Next time we visit it I can have hubby try to examine and describe or photograph the locations of the lines for you. I think we will be replacing the gas lines in ours simply because I don't have much trust in gas lines that old.

[68 TWind]

I forgot to say but HowieE mentioned, 1/2 in trunk line and 3/8 feeders. Also, and it goes without saying, make sure you put a proper shut off valve for each appliance. All the original lines are just single flare and the tubing is just plain copper. Single flare tools are much cheaper to buy than the tool to make double flares. As I stated earlier, after 41 years of exposure under the belly pan and mine is still OK and have no major corrosion.

[Minno]

My SOB trailers have used black iron pipe for the trunk, and then tees for the branch lines with copper flair fittings. Seems to me the more solid pipe (copper or black iron) would be better for the main trunk line? And then use the flexible copper for the branches. Thoughts?

[Kevin245]

Here are some pictures of our Avion for reference. Our AS has a copper trunk line that runs nearer to the curb side instead of down the centerline.

Kevin

[Wabbiteer]

Originally Posted by 68 TWind

Also, and it goes without saying, make sure you put a proper shut off valve for each appliance...

Amen. Thanks 68 TWind for catching that...

[Distantdrummer]

I was not aware of "double flaring" I am searching for illustrated info on same.
And pix of the tools and procedures to do it. Anyone have links to that kind of info?

I think I would stub out a double connector curbside for plugging in hoses to a grill, an outdoor space heater, or a fry stand, a pear burner (fire-starter) etc.
Or maybe better to install a double stub connector near the bottles on tongue?
And yes a quarter turn cut-off valve behind the stub-out.

[richinny]

google "double flare"

double flare - Google Images

[Ken J]

I don't think you want to use "plain ol copper tubing" there is special tubing (think its schedule m? ) for gas

Ken J.

[HowieE]

Schedule M copper is light gauge hard copper piping for base board hot water heating.

Soft copper tubing is fine for gas, but as I mentioned above there is a soft copper tubing clad with yellow plastic used for direct burial, but not required in this case.

You DO NOT want to get involved with Double Flaring. Double flare fittings are those used on automobile brake systems with steel tubing.

[68 TWind]

Keep is simple. Use the proven time tested method and you will be fine. Do check each tee and valve for leaks, goes without saying.

[HowieE]

The best leak detector I have found is Simple Green in about a 1 to 3 ratio. It foams with the smallest leak rather than blowing a larger bubble that can be broken in the wind.

[Ken J]

Ok - I did say M with a question mark - then its sch K - obviously I can't remember which one, but I know there is one for gas...

I used double flairs - seems to be ok

Ken J.

[LI Pets]

I redid the main line with black pipe, branching off with copper.

I looked at all the new SOB's that's the way they do it.

I then covered the copper with clear vinyl tubing to help protect from rocks and other debris.

[photocodo]

Originally Posted by Kevin245

Here are some pictures of our Avion for reference. Our AS has a copper trunk line that runs nearer to the curb side instead of down the centerline.

Kevin

It looks to me that you used straight copper pipe as the trunk line and then coil copper lines coming directly from the trunk line to inside the unit. Is that the case? if so is that acceptable, it seems like it would be easier to get the pipe into the unit that way. Is the coil copper softer? does that get damaged any easier while on the road? thanks
photocodo

[Kevin245]

Originally Posted by photocodo

It looks to me that you used straight copper pipe as the trunk line and then coil copper lines coming directly from the trunk line to inside the unit. Is that the case? if so is that acceptable, it seems like it would be easier to get the pipe into the unit that way. Is the coil copper softer? does that get damaged any easier while on the road? thanks
photocodo

The trunk line is actually steel. The feeders coming off the tee are copper. The advantge to the coil copper tubing is that it is softer then the hard pipe copper, and it does give should something strike it. Ours does have a few dings in it from years of towing, but there are no leaks.

Regards,

Kevin