Running new gas lines

[continentsco]

I know there are several posts about this but I wanted to post some pictures and then say what I am going to do and then have you chime in. Sound good?






So what I have right now is the tubing running down the length of the trailer and coming in underneath the oven/furnace on the curbside. Two copper pipes go up and inside the trailer but only one comes out on the other side.

We are getting a gas/electric fridge which is going to be on the street side and need to run a gas line to that, as well as a newly installed atwood 6 gallon heater.

The PO seems to have taken both of those old pipes out but left the holes completely open which is helpful in re installation.

I will remove the one pipe that goes up inside the bellypan but not into the trailer. Then I will replace that with a new line going over to the fridge, T that and then continue it onto the heater.

Pointers? Tips? Shopping list? What size pipe do I need to buy? Garden hose protection?

[StevieB]

Yellow Pipe Fitters Gas Tape>

[HiJoeSilver]

No tape on flare fittings.

Good tubing cutter, flaring tool, tubing bender to prevent crimped curves. Practice on the old stuff you take off. You can reuse the flare fittings if they are in good shape and just need clean up.
Remember to put nut on before flaring the end.
Garden hose protection if you want to, it's work splitting it length wise.
Loop in the line inside the water heater, push through grommet, flare outside push back to the flare fitting if you can get clearance.

[continentsco]

My main concern right now is removing the pipe that goes nowhere and without causing any damage to the existing T. Could I cut and cap that 6 inches from the T, remove the gold cap at the end of the existing main pipe and then elbow and run new copper pipe across the trailer?

[AWCHIEF]

I replaced a lot of the gas lines on my Bambi II. I did it the easy way. Pulled the lines and took them down to my local gas company. They supplied the correct line and fitting. They pre bent the new lines using the old as templates. The small extra cost was worth not having to deal with the bending myself.

[continentsco]

Originally Posted by HiJoeSilver

No tape on flare fittings.

Good tubing cutter, flaring tool, tubing bender to prevent crimped curves. Practice on the old stuff you take off. You can reuse the flare fittings if they are in good shape and just need clean up.
Remember to put nut on before flaring the end.
Garden hose protection if you want to, it's work splitting it length wise.
Loop in the line inside the water heater, push through grommet, flare outside push back to the flare fitting if you can get clearance.

Have you had experience using the push connectors instead of flaring and nuts? How would they handle the excessive vibrations?

I feel like this shouldn't be that hard, especially as there is access to all elbows, tees and pipes outside of the trailer. When you mention the word gas it sounds serious but can't be any worse than spicy Mexican food?

[bradt]

Test all joints for leaks w soap bubble solution.

I found the 1/2" or 5/8" tubing is hard to flare with a simple cheap common fixed cone flare tool. They work fine on 1/4" but force required is just about too much for larger sizes. I upgraded to a Rigid brand eccentric cone flare tool w ball bearings. Rolls around on inside of tubing, flaring a little at a time instead of all at once with a fixed cone. Easily turns in your hands. Makes the job fun instead of a struggle. Makes a precision flare too.

No pipe goop on flare. Should be clean metal to metal.

Use proper sized open end wrenches and get extra firmly tight.

Good luck with your project!

[DavidsonOverlander]

Originally Posted by bradt

Use proper sized open end wrenches and get extra firmly tight.

Or better yet, a flare nut wrench.

[Air83]

I would put some shut off valves at each appliance. We had our stove malfunction and because of that, we could not use the other gas appliances (hot water, fridge, furnace)

[featherbedder]

Does new AS come w/shut off at each appliance? My 1976 did when manf. or is more saving money resulting in more profit now?

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by continentsco

Have you had experience using the push connectors instead of flaring and nuts? How would they handle the excessive vibrations?

I feel like this shouldn't be that hard, especially as there is access to all elbows, tees and pipes outside of the trailer. When you mention the word gas it sounds serious but can't be any worse than spicy Mexican food?

Are you a licenced gas fitter???
Your insurance company will want to know!

[bibbs]

No push connectors! just use flair connections. You can flair the larger pipe more easily with a swedge and a hammer.

[continentsco]

Originally Posted by MelGoddard

Are you a licenced gas fitter???
Your insurance company will want to know!

All they need to know is that gas lines are on the trailer and hooked up. State inspection has been done and passed. Enough said!

[continentsco]

Originally Posted by bibbs

No push connectors! just use flair connections. You can flair the larger pipe more easily with a swedge and a hammer.

Okayyyyyy. Fine.

[continentsco]

Originally Posted by Air83

I would put some shut off valves at each appliance. We had our stove malfunction and because of that, we could not use the other gas appliances (hot water, fridge, furnace)

Good idea. Will do.

[HiJoeSilver]

Originally Posted by continentsco

Have you had experience using the push connectors instead of flaring and nuts? How would they handle the excessive vibrations?

I feel like this shouldn't be that hard, especially as there is access to all elbows, tees and pipes outside of the trailer. When you mention the word gas it sounds serious but can't be any worse than spicy Mexican food?

Think someone got this but no push or compression fittings on gas. I also wouldn't use CSST on a trailer.

[continentsco]

Originally Posted by HiJoeSilver

Think someone got this but no push or compression fittings on gas. I also wouldn't use CSST on a trailer.

This is what I am going to use for the main gas line under the belly pan but I am having trouble finding a T that will go from 1/2 to 3/8 up to the fridge and the Atwood heater.

[featherbedder]

I don't believe swedge and hammer on gas lines, if flare tool hard to turn use box end wrench over round handle will longer handle and much more leverage. IMO only flare safest for gas. For tee from 1/2 to 3/8 there are some on ebay price from $2 and up the ad states for gas as one of usage or google or check plumbing supply store.

[continentsco]

2000 dometic fridge. $375. Will go and get it tomorrow pending feedback.

[continentsco]

Originally Posted by featherbedder

I don't believe swedge and hammer on gas lines, if flare tool hard to turn use box end wrench over round handle will longer handle and much more leverage. IMO only flare safest for gas. For tee from 1/2 to 3/8 there are some on ebay price from $2 and up the ad states for gas as one of usage or google or check plumbing supply store.

Okay cool. I just posted pictures of the fridge. Do you think it is 3/8 connection to the fridge?