Too many years working on old airplanes. I always look for something loose, something shiney or something loose. Then I fix it. The shiney one is important to the propane lines. When a copper line rubs against something like the frame or even the soft aluminum belly pan it will rub thru....then you have a BIG problem. Make sure the installation is chafe free. Loose and leaky stuff is self explanatory.
My tubing is 3/8 OD with a couple of 1/4" OD branches. You are correct using Type L copper. The sizing should all be referred to in OD (outside diameter). The valve should not be like the original. They should be ball valve type and marked with GSA? (gas)markings. You want to make sure you have a tubing bender and that you start with fresh shinny copper. Copper is malleable and each time it is bent it stiffens a little until it breaks. It also stiffens just sitting and aging. So you want to roll it out flat on a smooth flat surface then use your benders. Don't forget to put the nuts on before you flare the tubing! You will also find the nuts will not slide around a bend. You should look for valve with flared ends on both sides. Good luck Phil
The old lines had rubber inserts in small clamps just screwed into the belly pan in a hap hazard pattern.
What do the newer A/S have as line hangers?
Plastic clips that will break faster Also you asked if there was anything else you should know...the current RV standard calls for a double flare on the end of the copper rather than the single. Here are the scans I promised.
Aaron
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Hey Guys-
This is great information since I will be redoing LP lines in the spring on the '65 Tradewind. Keep the info flying! I'm taking notes.
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