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Old 01-28-2008, 02:41 PM   #1
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Removing Suburban Furnace

Have to replace pilot valve assembly on my NI 22A Suburban Furnance in my 70 Airstream. Unit is located under the sink. Can't reach the manual shut-off valve on the side of the heater(not enough room to get your hand in there) or the sensing line for the pilot light assembly. Looks like I have to remove the end of the cabinet to get at the valve and the pilot light sensing line. Anyone know how this furnance is attached and an easy way to remove it without cutting/removing the end of my cabinet.
Thanks
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Old 01-28-2008, 03:41 PM   #2
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1985 31' Sovereign
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Smile Hi,

In my 1985 Sov. the unit is under the stove. All I did is take out the 4 screws out side the trailer to disconect it from the wall and the remove the piece of wood laminate in front of the heater. The heather is held by two crews to the floor. The wirening is on a plug that is easy to disconect. The gas was a bear to undo but with flare wrenches is came loose. I also turned of the gas at the tank.
I hope this will help you.
Regards from Russell in sunny Tucson Az.
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Old 01-28-2008, 05:39 PM   #3
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My Suburban furnace in my '71 Ambassador came out from the front, it is under the sink to the left, facing the sink you pull it toward you. The horizontal framing in front of the furnace did have to come out, and I think the screws from the outside, and of course everything else that's attached. Dear old Dad did most of it so that's all the info I have.

Gwen
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Old 01-28-2008, 06:50 PM   #4
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Depends on which coach you have, and how it is mounted. Ours was not much fun to remove, and involved taking all kinds of stuff out to get to it, and to remove it.
Also, you need to be aware the NT22 was recalled for a serious safety issue, and should not be used until you have verified the needed repair has been completed.
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Old 01-28-2008, 06:58 PM   #5
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You may not have to remove the cabinet. There is a screw or 2 which secures the base of the guts of the furnace to the bottom of the cabinet. Take these out and disconnect the gas line and the whole kit and caboodle slides out on a track. If I remember you may have to cut a hole in the shelf over the cabinet to undo the latch that holds the front of the cabinet on.

The most IMPORTANT is this furnace is a potential killer. There was a recall on it because the crossover tube deteriorates over time letting carbon monoxide into the coach. Parts are scarce or not available at all and you will be hard pressed to find a RV tech who is willing to work on it. I replaced mine with a NT30 and am glad I did
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Old 01-28-2008, 07:55 PM   #6
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Mine came out rather easily. As I recall it had some floor bolts and it slid out from the fromt of the cabinet under the sink. I did have to use angle iron, plywood (with sheet metal over it) to build a stand for the replacement as then newer s20 I replaced it with was much smaller. Get a service manual and it should give basic removal instructions. good idea to get rid of that model. No one would take a chance on a 35 year old furnace in their residence and you are in a smaller space in the AS.

Use the search tool, there are some threads on furnace replacement.
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Old 01-28-2008, 08:07 PM   #7
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Mine was allready gone. Living in a bit warmer climate, I included heat strips on my AC. Some say just not enough production from electric heat strips, but enough to knock the occasional chill off as long as you have power.
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Old 01-28-2008, 08:38 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumatic
You may not have to remove the cabinet. There is a screw or 2 which secures the base of the guts of the furnace to the bottom of the cabinet. Take these out and disconnect the gas line and the whole kit and caboodle slides out on a track. If I remember you may have to cut a hole in the shelf over the cabinet to undo the latch that holds the front of the cabinet on.

The most IMPORTANT is this furnace is a potential killer. There was a recall on it because the crossover tube deteriorates over time letting carbon monoxide into the coach. Parts are scarce or not available at all and you will be hard pressed to find a RV tech who is willing to work on it. I replaced mine with a NT30 and am glad I did
Good memory. From the 72 service manual "to gain access to the latch it is necessary to cut approximately a 3" square hole in galley shelf directly above the latch area to allow latch to swing up. (a 3" hole saw could be used it you are careful not to damage the heater)."
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Old 01-29-2008, 10:04 AM   #9
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Removing Suburban Furnance

Thanks to everyone for the info. I didn't know it had a recall. Will look at a replacement.
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Old 01-29-2008, 11:59 AM   #10
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yes, chuck it. I have mine pulled out and you are welcome to any and all parts, but I don't think it's worth the safety risk.

I think Palomino in Houston will have the best price, they usually do anyway.

good luck
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Old 01-29-2008, 01:17 PM   #11
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There are several old threads on furnace replacement. Most choose to use a Suburban NT30. You can modify the old furnace cabinet base so it serves as a plenum for the NT30. This will let you more easily utilize the existing forced air ductwork.
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