Relocating strange gas line ?

[FreshAir]

A long ago PO to our '66 TradeWind removed the furnace. He placed a decent patch over the hole on the outside skin and a nice looking matching wood panel under the galley where the furnace used to be. He left the housing hidden in that space. Lynn and I are seizing that almost 24" W X 20"H X 18" D (minus the corner front edge of the wheel well) to create more storage. Once I removed the furnace housing I discovered the old furnace gas line will need to be moved. However this PO (or a later one) installed a small 3000 BTU catylitic heater in the bathroom. This PO had T off the furnace gas line under the galley to feed the heater in the bathroom.... Are you all still with me? This gas line snakes under the street side twin bed to the heater. Now for one thing I know all gas lines should be outside fastened along the belly pan. Now if you are with me still please ask as I am "WHY" when the water heater gas line is within maybe no more than 18" from the c-heater in the bathroom. Of course I want to remove the gas line under the bed, cap off the old furnace gas line and T off the water heater gas line to the heater.

Is there anything in my plan that I should be wary of? Will this afect the water heater supply? Is there a logical reason you can imagine WHY the PO ran this gas line in the described manner?
Neil

[overlander63]

Neil, the simpler the better. If it's simpler to remove all the LP lines from within, and run a fresh line to the cat heater, and another fresh line to the water heater, that would be the way to go. You can T into the LP feed line, and put separate cutoff valves for the cat heater and water heater.

[azflycaster]

The PO may have wanted to keep the heater on a valve so it could be isolated from the other gas devices. The running of the lines inside the trailer was the wrong thing to do.

[lewster]

If you (or a qualified tech) will be adding new lines, be sure to put the flair nut (I use forged nuts....not cast ones) on the copper line FIRST, then add a 'double flair' at the end of the copper tubing. Single flairs will work, but can leak over time while doubles (they are code now) form a much better fit to the flair bulb and will probably outlast your trailer.

[doorgunner]

Neil;
I've got a double flair tool, yours for the using. I think it will do up to 3/8". I'll check.Have to scrounge around the hangar.
The PO probably was snowed in when he ran the lines inside!! Didn't you get that rig in Oregon?
PM me if you need the tool.
DG

[FreshAir]

Originally Posted by doorgunner

Neil;
I've got a double flair tool, yours for the using. I think it will do up to 3/8". I'll check.Have to scrounge around the hangar.
The PO probably was snowed in when he ran the lines inside!! Didn't you get that rig in Oregon?
PM me if you need the tool.
DG

Oh, Boy, I've seen your hangar.....do you actually 'find' what you need...or just stumble on it. Seriously, thank you. I shall first scrounge around my stuff for I may have one too. I can't remember ever throwing a tool away, whether it was good or not. I will PM you if I don't have one.
Yes I did get the trailer in the rural part of Oregon. The PO I bought it from was an advid sportsman/hunter. He and his family boondocked mostly. That's probably why the double water capacity etc.
Neil.

[markdoane]

You can buy a cheap set of double flare mandrels for less than $20, but much better to borrow a "good" set if you can.

I went the cheap route and about 20% of the ends "weren't quite good enough" and had to be remade. Next time I'll spend the extra bucks. It also takes practice.

[lewster]

When looking for a double flair tool, there is a 'test' that you can do to see if it will work properly. Take the clamp section and, without a tube in it, clamp it together. A good tool will form a perfect circle on all of the sizes and have sufficient grooving to hold the copper securely.

[FreshAir]

I removed about 12' of copper tubing (from the galley to the water heater closet), the feeder line to the old furnace from the main gas line (capped the T), utilized the T fitting from the furnace connection (see picture post #1) to tap into the water heater gas line then the short tubing with the old fittings in place went up through a new hole in the floor to behind the water heater to which I connected the flex hose from the bathroom cat heater. The only tube cutting (and flaring) done was to insert the T to the w-heater gas line. The only new part I had to buy was a cap for the main line T for the old furnace feeder. I sprayed soapy water on the connections and fixed one leak. That was EASY.
Thank you all for your suggestions. Each was read and applied.
Neil.