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Old 08-31-2009, 11:27 PM   #71
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The service manual says to use a 3/16" drift punch rearwards on the pin, while holding a heavy bar or hammer against the ring above the pin.
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Old 09-02-2009, 10:09 PM   #72
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removing pin

You can also use an angle grinder on the pin--very quick removal!
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Old 09-13-2009, 06:18 PM   #73
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The thought of dragging my tanks was just too much for me and because of this thread I made the change this weekend. Went to Home Depot and bought the shaft and assorted hardware and began the work. My old shaft was held in place by a screw and nut, it was the by product of moving the shaft higher when I switched to aluminum tanks (they are a little taller then the steel ones). It was a quick and simple change over.
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Old 03-18-2010, 09:58 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster View Post
The thought of dragging my tanks was just too much for me and because of this thread I made the change this weekend. Went to Home Depot and bought the shaft and assorted hardware and began the work. My old shaft was held in place by a screw and nut, it was the by product of moving the shaft higher when I switched to aluminum tanks (they are a little taller then the steel ones). It was a quick and simple change over.
Richard,
I'll have to take a look at this at next months Rally. I saw the threaded rods at Home Depot last week and it got me thinking again about this changeover.
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Old 03-18-2010, 11:10 AM   #75
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This is the exact thing I did last year. Stainless allthread with two nuts above the holding bracket, and two below it to lock the rod in place. It's a really simple fix. Someone added a plastic tube or length of hose to the allthread on one of these and it looked great. I'm thinking of adding a length of aluminum tubing to cover the threads on mine, that I could polish along with the tanks.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster View Post
The thought of dragging my tanks was just too much for me and because of this thread I made the change this weekend. Went to Home Depot and bought the shaft and assorted hardware and began the work. My old shaft was held in place by a screw and nut, it was the by product of moving the shaft higher when I switched to aluminum tanks (they are a little taller then the steel ones). It was a quick and simple change over.
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Old 03-18-2010, 11:30 AM   #76
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This is the exact thing I did last year. Stainless allthread with two nuts above the holding bracket, and two below it to lock the rod in place. It's a really simple fix. Someone added a plastic tube or length of hose to the allthread on one of these and it looked great. I'm thinking of adding a length of aluminum tubing to cover the threads on mine, that I could polish along with the tanks.
Sweet!

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Rich,
Did the top wing fasteners (whatever you call them) fit exactly on the threads?
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Old 03-19-2010, 01:26 PM   #77
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I have a steel wingnut on mine, so I brought it to the hardware store with me to find a compatible stainless allthread piece. I believe they all use standard threads but there are a lot of different wingnuts and brackets, some steel and some aluminum. You might be able to see it in this picture if you enlarge it.

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Old 03-19-2010, 04:11 PM   #78
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I have a steel wingnut on mine, so I brought it to the hardware store with me to find a compatible stainless allthread piece. I believe they all use standard threads but there are a lot of different wingnuts and brackets, some steel and some aluminum. You might be able to see it in this picture if you enlarge it.

Rich the Viking
Thanks, Rich. Mine's pretty much the same. That's a good idea. I'll just take the top wingnut with me.
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Old 03-19-2010, 05:19 PM   #79
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I think you'll like this conversion Mello Mike.
When I got my new #30 tanks I went to remove the old ones, which were shorter. I gave the wingnut a VERY half-hearted twist with ONE hand(thinking I was wasting my time and would need a wrench and some 3-in-1 oil) and the whole rod, regulator and hold-down came off in my hand, and I was barely able to keep the tanks from falling on the ground. The drift pin was nothing but a faint memory and dark stain on the rod. It's a miracle I didn't have a "disaster thread of my own to start.

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P. S. Mike, you look like a dead-ringer for a young James Garner. Amazing!
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Old 03-28-2010, 04:19 AM   #80
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I installed a new threaded rod for the holding tanks this last week. I spent about 13 bucks for the rod and a few more bucks for the washers and bolts at Home Depot. A very quick and easy modification. Well worth it.
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Old 04-07-2010, 05:23 PM   #81
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Mike, Our trailer is not here and I am changing from 20lb LP tanks to 30lb LP tanks tomorow (in the rain it looks like) and I want to change to the new thredded rod. I want to take all the hardware with me when I go. SO my question is. What size Thredded rod did it take? How long? We too have the aluminum wing nut handle.
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:16 PM   #82
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I just checked mine, which is shown in a picture in a earlier post. It is a 36" length of 1/2" stainless steel allthread. It hangs down 5" below the bottom locking nut. I would have cut it off, but I had something else to do that month. You ever tried cutting a 1/2" stainless rod? No thanks.
It does'nt hang as low as the jack does anyway, so I don't mind it.

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Old 04-07-2010, 08:47 PM   #83
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Thanks Rich. I will be able to get the parts on my way instead of back tracking.

I will take the Roto zip with the cut-off wheel if I think it is too long.

I like the newer tank covers and may just leave it long and see if we get one of them and use it to secure the cover as well. But that is another season away.

Thanks again.
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Old 08-15-2010, 07:21 AM   #84
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Mike,
Did you ever do this modification?
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