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Old 02-05-2006, 05:14 AM   #15
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These stories will make ya double check them, there are a lot of weight when they are full, a few jolts from winter roads or curbs . thats a lot of pressure on that rod, if I remember correct, it is only a small cross pin, I will thke a better look when the snow and ice melts, these posts are good , it makes us all better informed as to what can happen .

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Old 06-13-2006, 04:17 PM   #16
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OPD Valves and shut off?

Originally Posted by wahoonc
If the tank valves had been open the OPD mechanism would have kicked in and shut the flow off, it is part of what they are designed to do...Aaron
I know the OPD (Over Pressure Device) valves open to vent the tank when there's excessive pressure. Which means in a fire they become a giant Roman Candle rather than a bomb. How do they funtion if the system is inadvertantly openned? I think you can open a tank without the hose attached and it'll just release gas, no?


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Old 06-13-2006, 04:53 PM   #17
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Exclamation Propain!

Another thing to check on tank mounts or any other system fastened with bolts & nuts, etc., is looseness. When there is any motion, the impact due to banging back and forth can easily exceed the strength of the the fasteners, shear pins, and fracture bolts at the threads. Frequent inspection will go a long way in insuring that the tanks are secure. A stout strap around both tanks through the tops might make it more difficult for either to just fall over toward the outside if the rod breaks.
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Old 06-13-2006, 05:56 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by bhayden
I know the OPD (Over Pressure Device) valves open to vent the tank when there's excessive pressure. Which means in a fire they become a giant Roman Candle rather than a bomb. How do they funtion if the system is inadvertantly openned? I think you can open a tank without the hose attached and it'll just release gas, no?

I learned that OPD actually means "overfill protection device". The device shuts off when the tanks are nearly full, preventing overpressure problems. Another device in the same valve shuts off the gas flow if there's suddenly a large volume of gas moving through, such as might happen when a hose ruptures.
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Old 06-14-2006, 10:30 AM   #19
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I stand corrected. The OPD accronym does stand for Overfill Protection Device. Basically that's all it does. All tanks have always had a pressure relief valve but if the liquid level in the tank is too high (overfill condition) it may not work. That's the reason propane cylinders should not be transported laying on their side. Here's a link on how the OPD valve works.

As far as protection devices to prevent unwanted escape of gas the OPD and the older ACME valves (but not the POL valves?) appear to use the same technology. Here's another link that explains the differences and features but it doesn't go into just how thi s magic is accomplished.

I have a hose from pre OPD days that allowed me to use a 5# refillable tank with my portable grill designed for the disposable cyclinders. I was hoping to use this with the Airstream attaching it to the tank not supplying the trailer. It appears that the thread has changed to external and RH from the old internal LH thread. I haven't had the trailer tanks refilled yet but looking at them it appeared the hoses from the tank selector/regulator had the old style thread even though the tanks are fitted with OPD valves (triangular handwheel). The hoses and fittings also appear to be original circa 1978 and well worn. Now I'm wondering what sort of "chain reaction" I'm going to set in motion when I try to get the cyclinders refilled and replace the trailer fitting?
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Old 06-14-2006, 11:51 AM   #20
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You can still use your original lines with the left hand thread but you need to use a wrench to tighted them properly. If you convert over to the new outside thread hoses you will be able to tighten them by hand. Seems like a good thing to do since the old rubber hoses age and get weaker. I have not heard how long they are good for but I would guess it is likely less than 10 years in the areas of the country with more ozone and sun exposure.
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Old 02-01-2007, 11:27 AM   #21
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I thought that this was important for others and newbies to read... Ed
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Old 02-01-2007, 11:43 AM   #22
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Very Good information...Thanks, I'm a single woman new airstream owner and not usually the best at checking for safety items and precautions. I do read some of these posts as well as the interior decorating ones, so I am very grateful when I happen to open up a post so enlightening and potentially life saving.
Thanks again, Debra
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Old 02-01-2007, 11:59 AM   #23
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Yes we also use a t-bar and a length of all-thread. we can really crank them down tight with that. Lets not forget to INPSECT at every stop! And Never roll with any pilotlights on.I've seen more than one melted RV on the side of the road!
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Old 02-01-2007, 01:29 PM   #24
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Watch the turning radius

I was trying to manuver into a dump station and made a too tight turn hitting one of the tanks with my bumper. No significant damage to the tanks but the aluminum hold down cross piece snapped like a twig.
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Old 06-18-2007, 04:32 PM   #25
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:37 PM   #26
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Wow, thanks for the info.....I'm going to find away to have a back-up system in case one fails the other one can compensate.
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Old 06-18-2007, 11:18 PM   #27
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Tie downs

It's easy to see that extra tie downs are important.

Is there any info on the LP gas on the master panel always reading full?
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Old 06-19-2007, 05:54 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by JStanley
‘Remove Tanks In Case of Fire’ is another issue. So I’ll get a bigger fire extinguisher to keep in the tow vehicle.
Although LP tanks can and do rupture and explode in very hot fires, they frequently are the only things that survive a fire intact. It takes a pretty hot fire to rupture an LP tank. You seldom see that kind of heat at the bottom of a travel trailer fire or at the tongue. A fire extinguisher is NOT going to keep them from getting hot, and if your trailer is burning to the point that you think that the LP tanks are going to be involved, removing the LP tanks is probably not the best use of your time. Turn them off if you can do it safely... and then spend the rest of your time getting as far away from the trailer as you can!


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