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Old 08-17-2008, 02:58 PM   #1
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1967 26' Overlander
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Exclamation Propane to Natural Gas Conversion HELP

I am setting up my 1967 Airstream as a semi-permanent guest house in my backyard, and have a few hurdles I need some advice on.

I would like to hook the RV up to the natural gas line on my house, but don't know what needs to be modified to make this work with the propane system of the RV. Ideally, I would love to replace or add one regulator to the entire system but can of course make adjustments to both the gas water heater and stove separately if need be.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you.

Christoph
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Old 08-17-2008, 03:19 PM   #2
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It would be easy if it was not an RV

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaiserbox@gm View Post
... I would like to hook the RV up to the natural gas line on my house, but don't know what needs to be modified to make this work with the propane system of the RV. Ideally, I would love to replace or ...
Welcome to the forum.

The Gas Company's regulator will do all the regulating necessary. You do not need another regulator.

Your gas appliances will need different gas jets. Your gas company should be able to advise you on the correct replacement jet sizes. They will, however, probably not be able to help you locate the exact part you need.

RV appliances were designed to operate only on propane. The appliances' respective manufacturers most likely put little thought into stocking gas jets which work with natural gas. You might have trouble locating what you need.

Or, you might find that the vendor used industry-standard jets.

Are you handy enough to change out the jets in everything should you be able to find the correct replacements?

Tom
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Old 08-17-2008, 03:59 PM   #3
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Sounds like a p.i.t.b, pay the gas guys to tell you if it's possible. Why not have a propane
tank installed?
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Old 08-17-2008, 06:45 PM   #4
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Here's the chart.
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Old 08-17-2008, 07:17 PM   #5
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It is simple but costly. Every unit that you are going to run on natural gas you have to switch the control from a propane or LPG control to a nat gas control. I would think if you wanted hot water use a Hot water line off your house and plum it into your trailer hot water line.Your frige runs off electric and your range that wont use much at all. Or just cook on the grill outside or over a fire. Get the whole efect that way
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Old 08-17-2008, 07:49 PM   #6
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Welcome to the forums from another Phoenix Airstream owner. We have quite a few owners here in the valley. Great to have one more.

I am sure if Southwest Gas (gas company in Phoenix) sees a line to the trailer, they will cap it and red tag your setup. I had an experience with them in my last house (no gas in my present home) where they disconnected me because the room the water heater was in did not have proper ventilation. The same room the water heater sat in since the home was built in the 70's. I doubt that your 40+ year old trailer will meet all the code requirement for residential Phoenix.
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Old 08-17-2008, 11:17 PM   #7
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Thumbs up Thank you.

I appreciate your insights, all very helpful. I think I will go with your suggestion to run the hot water from my house and simply use the propane tanks for the stove. This will let me take the rv out without having to switch stuff back...

Any idea how long two normal size bbq tanks can be used? How many (average) meals before the tanks are depleted?

Thanks again!
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Old 08-17-2008, 11:22 PM   #8
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1967 26' Overlander
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One more question.

Maybe this should be a separate thread, but I will be connecting the rv to sewer - should the abs pipe to the sewer have a p-trap prior to coming out of the ground (to the trailer) or does the rv toilet have built in way of stopping sewer gases from entering the interior?

Thank you.
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Old 08-18-2008, 12:21 AM   #9
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You would keep the black tank valve closed untill the tank is near full then dump and close the valve again. It is the only way to get the solids out of the tank. Keeping the valve open will create the "black hills" effect in the tank.

Your gray water fould just flow since you have no gray tank. You would need to make sure that the P-traps in the sinks and shower always have water in them.
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Old 08-19-2008, 05:40 PM   #10
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If you want to set it up permanately,you must call a plumber to drill out the orfices,the burner valves will work just fine.Some stoves are adjustable and don`t need different orfices.They will have to pull permit,pressure test system ,have an inspection.Also sewer tie in needs permit and inspection. NO TRAP ON SEWER LINE.
Azflycaster-if they taged you it was probably for lack of combustion air.Hope this helps.Dave
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Old 08-21-2008, 02:35 PM   #11
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its always nice if you putting in a new septic tank just have them punch a whole and give you a dump station to hook to
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