Propane tank holder on 1973 Argosy

[Ourgoosy]

When I bought my trailer (5 months ago) it had 30# propane tanks mounted on the tongue using the original propane tank holder. I am trying to mount some 20# tanks to replace the 30# ones which are dented, rusty and have old valves. The original manual shows a picture with 20# tanks mounted, but the vertical rod on my trailer is too tall to mount a 20#. The rod height does not seem to be adjustable, or it could just be corroded so much that it will not move.

Is this rod suppose to adjust up and down to accommodate different size tanks?

Or perhaps were 30# tanks optional on the trailer and Airstream installed different height rods accordingly?

Thank You for any advice!

[overlander64]

Greetings Ourgoosy!

Welcome to the Forums and the world of Vintage Argosys!

Originally Posted by Ourgoosy

When I bought my trailer (5 months ago) it had 30# propane tanks mounted on the tongue using the original propane tank holder. I am trying to mount some 20# tanks to replace the 30# ones which are dented, rusty and have old valves. The original manual shows a picture with 20# tanks mounted, but the vertical rod on my trailer is too tall to mount a 20#. The rod height does not seem to be adjustable, or it could just be corroded so much that it will not move.

Is this rod suppose to adjust up and down to accommodate different size tanks?

Or perhaps were 30# tanks optional on the trailer and Airstream installed different height rods accordingly?

Thank You for any advice!

Typically, Argosy only installed the 20 pound LP tanks on the 20' coach . . . most of the larger coaches were almost automatically equipped with 30 pound tanks. The same basic ring an attachment method was used across the board . . . at least according to what I have on my '64 Airstream and '78 Argosy. The threaded rod is easily replaced . . . on both of my coaches, there is hole in the ring through which the rod extends . . . there is a pair of nuts on the rod above the ring and a pair of nuts below the ring that allow for adjusting the ring. You can have a length of threaded rod of the correct dimension cut to the size you need then just take out the original . . . use the "jamb-nut" method of attachement to the ring and you should be good to go . . . I added a lock washer to both packs . . . I don't know that it was necessary, but it has worked well for several years.

Good luck with your project!

Kevin

[featherbedder]

Find stainless steel rod instead of plain steel, then thread top enough plus little extra
thread bottom same way use stainless nuts then never any rust or other problems. I have done this on every A.S. I have owned [7] last 1976 pur. new I still have and only way to go.

[Ourgoosy]

Thank you for the responses overlander64 and featherbeder. I have attached a couple of pictures showing my propane mount. I think that mine is different than what you are both describing. I think that mine is fixed in position intentionally by a pin perpendicular to the rod, maybe this is not original equipment? Replacing the current rod with stainless steel sound like a good idea and would provide adjustment.

By the way, I am repainting the tongue now so it won't be as ugly as the current pictures.

[Ourgoosy]

Forgot to press the upload button.

[overlander64]

Greetings Ourgoosy!

Originally Posted by Ourgoosy

Thank you for the responses overlander64 and featherbeder. I have attached a couple of pictures showing my propane mount. I think that mine is different than what you are both describing. I think that mine is fixed in position intentionally by a pin perpendicular to the rod, maybe this is not original equipment? Replacing the current rod with stainless steel sound like a good idea and would provide adjustment.

By the way, I am repainting the tongue now so it won't be as ugly as the current pictures.

Your LP Tank retainer ring is almost identical to mine. By the time I acquired each of my coaches, the original "pinned" connected rod had already been replaced by threaded rod by the time that I acquired both of my coaches. Using the two nuts with lock washer arrangement abovve and below the rod bracket seems intuitively more secure to me, but I do not have proof of this. If you choose to use stainless threaded rod, you will likely have to order it . . . I did just that for my Overlander, but I purchased standard threaded rod at my hardware store for the Minuet. You may have tocut off the excess remaining once the necessary length is determined. I had to cut several inches off of the rod on my Minuet that has 20 pound tanks, but had to add several inches (with a threaded rod joint) on the Overlander.

Good luck with your project!

Kevin

[idroba]

I think the original rod was held into the bottom sleeve with a roll pin. That can be driven out with a punch as needed. You could re drill a new hole, use a threaded rod, or best, as has been suggested, a stainless steel rod would be extra nice.

[featherbedder]

Far as I know all A.S. came with roll pin thru rod, simple to punch out as suggested I started with 1962 then 66 /2/67s /74/ 76 all pinned

[fourcatos]

Maybe this is the mechanic in me talking. Cut the rod to the correct length and use a tap and die set to thread the pipe. If you have a tap set or a friend does this costs you nothing but time.

[Ourgoosy]

I appreciate all the advice. Now I know what a roll pin is. The tongue paint job is now underway, it already looks 100% better. Still have a lot of work to do before we are ready to hit the road in July.