Visit our Popular Forums

malconium · 08-30-2010, 08:24 PM

I have a 1973 31' with what are probably factory original aluminum propane tanks. It is my understanding that some aspect of the tank valves or regulators is supposed to be upgraded. I have no idea what to look for or how to tell if what I have is older and in need of upgrading - it probably is but how to tell? I do know that the hose connections to the fittings on the top of the tanks have a wrench type of fitting rather than the hand tighten type that is on my BBQ. I also have gauges on the top of the tanks. So here are my questions:

1.) How do we identify what needs to be upgraded?

2.) What do we upgrade to if needed?

Thanks,

Malcolm

**azflycaster** · 08-30-2010, 08:31 PM

The tanks need to be fitted with OPD valves to be current and to be filled. Look at the knob on the top of the tank. If it is round it needs to be upgraded. Upgraded tanks will have a triangular shaped knob.

If needed, you will have to get the valve replaced on each of the tanks. There are different valves for steel and aluminum tanks.

This is an OPD valve for a 30 lb aluminum tank:
30 lb OPD Valve for Aluminum bottles PV3004A [PV3004A] - $28.95 : Out-of-Doors Mart!, More Airstream Parts on-line than anyone!

Jammer · 08-30-2010, 08:37 PM

With certain exceptions (notably horizontal tanks) the service valve has to be replaced if it was installed prior to roughly 1998 when valves began to be equipped with an OPD (overfill prevention device), essentially a float that closes the valve most of the way so that the tank can't be filled beyond 80% or so.

New valves equipped with an OPD have a triangular handwheel. Old valves have various shapes, but are not triangular. The new valves will work with your existing regulator and pigtail and will also have the Acme threads that you refer to as the "hand tighten type." You can have a propane dealer install new valves. They may have to be ordered because the height of some aluminum tanks is a little unusual and requires an unusual float configuration.

It is possible to purchase and install the valves yourself however it is often quite difficult to remove the old valves and certain safety practices have to be followed.

eubank · 08-30-2010, 10:18 PM

You'll need OPD valves, as others have pointed out. In addition, the cylinders will probably need recertification. (Original cylinders of this kind are "good" for 12 years, as indicated by the month/year stamp in the collar of the cylinder; a visual recertification can extend that time by five years.)

Lynn

Mexray · 08-30-2010, 10:40 PM

Take your tanks to your local Propane Distributor - they have the proper gear to replace the valves quickly and safely...

I had ours changed on our 78 AS, and had them re-certify both tanks - I think I paid about $65 for both, total...and they threw in a couple of 'fills' to go with it!

They had a special 'jig' to clamp the tank while they use a special long wrench to unscrew the old valves - they're in there tight!

This is the kind of job better left to the experts...IMHO

Ray

AIR-Quarius · 08-31-2010, 05:42 AM

We get ours filled locally - and on each, just below the 'knob' is a smallish screw like a flathead type. They really watch to see if that screw releases. It is supposed to help bleed off excess propane or air. So now before I go to have them filled I will loosen the screws a bit and put W-D 40. To make sure they are working properly.

Wabbiteer · 08-31-2010, 05:53 AM

I took my 1972 aluminum tanks to a regional distributor & shop to get them re-certified and had the mechanics there use a buzz-style engraver to etch ugliness into the aluminum for my trouble... beware the boys in the back shop, I believe real certification involves hydrostatic testing & only then is applied the stamped numeric dates.

eubank · 08-31-2010, 07:21 AM

Recertification of propane cylinders involves any of three kinds, with differing results for the consumer: Five more years, seven more years, or twelve more. By far the most common (and least expensive) is visual recertification, which yields five more years.

By the way, when I had ours recertified a few weeks ago, something new came up: Rather than stamping a new date into the collar (as used to be the case), the tester was permitted to apply a label that includes the new date.

Lynn

malconium · 09-01-2010, 01:23 PM

I have been calling around in my local area (Portland, Oregon) looking for a place that can replace the valves and re-certify my tanks. I have been amazed to discover that it is hard to find such a place. I was referred to a particular propane company by 3 different RV stores only to find out that while they used to do that type of thing they no longer have time to do so.

So I am still looking but having to give more thought to buying new valves and replacing them myself. So if I do end up having to replace them myself what about the certification process?

Thanks,

Malcolm

malconium · 09-01-2010, 01:29 PM

I just found a Propane service company that can do the work for me. They say that replacing the valves and re-certifying the tanks would go for about $30 per tank. As long as I call ahead before I go in they can do it while I wait too. Sounds like a pretty good deal to me.

In case anyone reading this thread is in my area and needs this service the company that I found is the following:

Propane Services - Pacer Propane Portland - 503-829-5560 - Molalla, Oregon

Malcolm

eubank · 09-01-2010, 01:47 PM

That's probably not a bad price. Those valves generally run $15 to $20 each, and open-market recertification often goes for about $10 per bottle. (Our dealer does it for free, but we also buy a couple of thousand gallons of propane from them every year.)

Lynn

doorgunner · 09-01-2010, 02:09 PM

I have all kinds of propane tanks--I've yet to have anyone filling them, remotely look for any kind of certification.and I've been camping over 50 years.
replacing the valves has been necessary, and $30 a tank is a fair price.

silversled · 12-01-2010, 08:00 PM

I am looking at an Airstream to buy and one of the things that needs to be replaced is the hoses to the propane tanks cause they are leaking. Where can I go buy these things at? I live west of Houston Texas...

BJ

wkerfoot · 12-01-2010, 08:01 PM

Several places, RV stores, Propane dealers and Out of Doors Mart.

Bill

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillyJoe

I am looking at an Airstream to buy and one of the things that needs to be replaced is the hoses to the propane tanks cause they are leaking. Where can I go buy these things at? I live west of Houston Texas...

BJ

ALANSD · 12-21-2010, 02:28 PM

I have not been able to find anyone locally who can install the OPD valves on the aluminum tanks. The valves run $30 or so from Outofdoorsmart, and the one local gas dealer I spoke to said to leave the tanks with them and they charge 88 an hour labor...if they can get to it.
Any ideas on this? I am thinking about buying a pair of non OPD worthington tanks- and don't want to spen a silly amount to upgrade them.

Tried an RV place they don't do it.

eubank · 12-21-2010, 02:38 PM

It's true that it's a little challenging to remove those valves, but it's mainly just a matter of holding the cylinder still while the valve is unscrewed from the body. When I've seen it done, they used a strap mechanism to hold the tank and a simple wrench for the valve. Aluminum shouldn't present much of an issue.

In any event, I wouldn't recommend giving up the aluminum cylinders for steel ones. If nothing else, ship them to me! My propane people will swap out the valves free of charge (a) if I have the new valves and (b) if I fill the cylinders there afterwards.

Lynn

Dave Park · 12-21-2010, 03:05 PM

The auto-switchover valves you connect two tanks to do switch over before the tanks are 100% empty. Therefore, if you have one of these newer valves between your tank and your RV, and the older valves, never assume your tanks are empty.

If you remove the valves on non-empty tanks, thinks can get interesting really quickly.

I know it's stating the obvious, but what's obvious to me isn't obvious to a few people every year!

Jammer · 12-21-2010, 03:13 PM

Either try another propane dealer or find out where they send stuff to be hydrotested or reconditioned.

I finally figured out that there's a hydro test place in Minneapolis that takes walk-in business and will recertify and replace valves. There's probably one in Atlanta too.

ALANSD · 12-21-2010, 04:04 PM

well I am game for trying to install the valves myself, if I can. I just don't want to blow myself up doing it!

Jammer · 12-21-2010, 04:18 PM

OK there are a couple of tricks. Be sure there's no gas, as long as you have the old POL type connector with no acme threads that's simply a matter of opening the valve all the way and leaving it sit there for a while.

The valves are going to require considerable force to remove. Holding the tank secure is difficult.

I have had best results wrapping the tank in a sheet of rubber (like from a used inner tube) and using a ratchet tiedown to hold it down to something that won't give.

I think I used an open end wrench to break the valve loose and then a crowfoot wrench to turn it out.

You are going to want an OPD that matches the DT figure stamped on the collar.

Use some really good paste pipe dope when you assemble. I use Rectorseal #5. You do want it tight but also it has to point the right way.

I would check for leaks by putting just a little propane in the tank and then spraying soapy water. If you don't have a way to do that you can try putting the soap solution on there and then running some boiling water on the side of the tank to make a little more pressure. That will catch anything bad.