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Old 12-21-2010, 03:28 PM   #15
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Install OPD valves

I have not been able to find anyone locally who can install the OPD valves on the aluminum tanks. The valves run $30 or so from Outofdoorsmart, and the one local gas dealer I spoke to said to leave the tanks with them and they charge 88 an hour labor...if they can get to it.
Any ideas on this? I am thinking about buying a pair of non OPD worthington tanks- and don't want to spen a silly amount to upgrade them.

Tried an RV place they don't do it.
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Old 12-21-2010, 03:38 PM   #16
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It's true that it's a little challenging to remove those valves, but it's mainly just a matter of holding the cylinder still while the valve is unscrewed from the body. When I've seen it done, they used a strap mechanism to hold the tank and a simple wrench for the valve. Aluminum shouldn't present much of an issue.

In any event, I wouldn't recommend giving up the aluminum cylinders for steel ones. If nothing else, ship them to me! My propane people will swap out the valves free of charge (a) if I have the new valves and (b) if I fill the cylinders there afterwards.


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Old 12-21-2010, 04:05 PM   #17
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The auto-switchover valves you connect two tanks to do switch over before the tanks are 100% empty. Therefore, if you have one of these newer valves between your tank and your RV, and the older valves, never assume your tanks are empty.

If you remove the valves on non-empty tanks, thinks can get interesting really quickly.

I know it's stating the obvious, but what's obvious to me isn't obvious to a few people every year!
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Old 12-21-2010, 04:13 PM   #18
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Either try another propane dealer or find out where they send stuff to be hydrotested or reconditioned.

I finally figured out that there's a hydro test place in Minneapolis that takes walk-in business and will recertify and replace valves. There's probably one in Atlanta too.
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Old 12-21-2010, 05:04 PM   #19
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well I am game for trying to install the valves myself, if I can. I just don't want to blow myself up doing it!
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Old 12-21-2010, 05:18 PM   #20
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OK there are a couple of tricks. Be sure there's no gas, as long as you have the old POL type connector with no acme threads that's simply a matter of opening the valve all the way and leaving it sit there for a while.

The valves are going to require considerable force to remove. Holding the tank secure is difficult.

I have had best results wrapping the tank in a sheet of rubber (like from a used inner tube) and using a ratchet tiedown to hold it down to something that won't give.

I think I used an open end wrench to break the valve loose and then a crowfoot wrench to turn it out.

You are going to want an OPD that matches the DT figure stamped on the collar.

Use some really good paste pipe dope when you assemble. I use Rectorseal #5. You do want it tight but also it has to point the right way.

I would check for leaks by putting just a little propane in the tank and then spraying soapy water. If you don't have a way to do that you can try putting the soap solution on there and then running some boiling water on the side of the tank to make a little more pressure. That will catch anything bad.
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Old 03-30-2011, 12:00 PM   #21
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Propane tank valve replacement/certification

I just found out it's hard to find someone/somewere in Ohio that re certifies tanks.I was able to find valves to replace the old ones from RV store,but no certification. Any help would be great. I don't mind replacing the valves but want to make sure there ok. I've read that alot of people don't look for certification ..they just fill 'em.
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Old 03-30-2011, 01:30 PM   #22
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Generally speaking, you'll want to look for a propane company, not just a filler. The company will be one that not only supplies propane for little cylinders, but also fills large tanks (500, 1000 gallon are common), perhaps does installations of propane systems, and so forth.

I do hope that you're in a state that requires this. A few states around have few, if any, regulations concerning propane safety, leaving it up to propane companies instead. The problem comes when you cross the border into one of the many states that do require certification; you've got an empty cylinder and can't get it filled.

Just go for a visual recertification, which is what most outfits will do anyway. It's worth five years and can be repeated as long as your cylinders are in decent condition and have the appropriate valves.


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Originally Posted by gary larocca View Post
I just found out it's hard to find someone/somewere in Ohio that re certifies tanks.I was able to find valves to replace the old ones from RV store,but no certification. Any help would be great. I don't mind replacing the valves but want to make sure there ok. I've read that alot of people don't look for certification ..they just fill 'em.
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Old 03-30-2011, 08:47 PM   #23
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My worthington aluminum tanks were recertified in 99 when OPD valves were installed (I miss not having the propane tank level indicator working in the control panel). Every time I go to get them filled I ask them if they need to be recertified and I'm always told "aluminum tanks don't need to be recertified." ???
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Old 03-30-2011, 11:17 PM   #24
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Think you'd better get some better advice. There is no provision whatsoever in NFPA 58 (the "Bible" of propane safety) exempting aluminum cylinders from certification requirements.

Lynn

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My worthington aluminum tanks were recertified in 99 when OPD valves were installed (I miss not having the propane tank level indicator working in the control panel). Every time I go to get them filled I ask them if they need to be recertified and I'm always told "aluminum tanks don't need to be recertified." ???
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Old 03-31-2011, 01:17 AM   #25
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I don't doubt you Lynn. I've filled my bottles about 5 times since taking ownership (twice by an RV repair shop the other 3 at campgrounds) and all five guys who filled the tank told me the same thing. I will consult with a professional propane outfit. I'm heading out on a 3 week trip in 3 weeks and know I wll have to refill a couple of times and don't want to get stuck somewhere in Utah without propane...
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Old 03-31-2011, 08:39 AM   #26
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You're right if you asked only fillers. I've filled a couple of out-of-date cylinders myself -- though not before telling them that they've got to get it recertified. And that's because I know the recertification process: It's a visual inspection to check for dents, gouges, broken welds, and, of course, the "new" valve. If I know the person; if the cylinder is in visually good condition; and if the certification just ran out, then I may fill it with the verbal warning to get it recertified. (Remember that it's my filler's license that's at stake.)

The non-exemption for aluminum doesn't come up for the simple reason that they, just like steel ones, can be dented, broken, whatever. In my experience, it's especially when somebody bends one of the flanges at the top or bottom that you get a crack in the weld, creating a weak point.


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Old 03-31-2011, 11:54 AM   #27
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I lucked out and with the suggestion of a member here got a guy at a gas company to do my OPD valves, recertify and fill them.It was a three day wait, and a 20 miles from ome but well worth it. 85 bucks for both.
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Old 03-31-2011, 02:27 PM   #28
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Yeah, the company we buy from in Taos will do recertifications for free for us. (Heaven knows that they earn enough from us anyway.) I've done the cylinders of several guests that way.

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