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Old 03-01-2009, 09:36 PM   #1
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Propane Regulator mounting?

We've noticed that the propane regulator on our '66 Safari was mounted on the fitting that holds the bottles to the mount on the A-frame. To remove a bottle, one has to release this fitting, and cause movement to the copper main supply line that connects to the bottom of the regulator. Previous owner had obviously done this, as two of the Adel clamps that hold the copper line to the trailer have come loose from their attaching rivets, under the A-frame.

Does anyone know a better way of mounting the regulator so that one bottle can be removed for filling without disconnecting the main supply to the trailer or putting strain on the copper lines?

We would like to repair the loose clamps and have that line experience no further movement. I'm thinking about fabricating a mount for the regulator that attaches to the "ring" that holds the bottom of the propane bottles on the A-frame--centered on the rear side. Using longer pigtails to the bottle valves would obviously be required. Does anyone know a down side of doing this?
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Old 03-01-2009, 10:02 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by mimiandrews View Post
We've noticed that the propane regulator on our '66 Safari was mounted on the fitting that holds the bottles to the mount on the A-frame. To remove a bottle, one has to release this fitting, and cause movement to the copper main supply line that connects to the bottom of the regulator. Previous owner had obviously done this, as two of the Adel clamps that hold the copper line to the trailer have come loose from their attaching rivets, under the A-frame.

Does anyone know a better way of mounting the regulator so that one bottle can be removed for filling without disconnecting the main supply to the trailer or putting strain on the copper lines?

We would like to repair the loose clamps and have that line experience no further movement. I'm thinking about fabricating a mount for the regulator that attaches to the "ring" that holds the bottom of the propane bottles on the A-frame--centered on the rear side. Using longer pigtails to the bottle valves would obviously be required. Does anyone know a down side of doing this?
The LPG regulator and bottle hold down, is basically the same today as it was 40 years ago.

"BUT" a huge change was that all the copper tubing associated with the LPG tanks were changed to high pressure rubber hoses, since they don't fatigue crack like the copper lines to/from the regulator often do, when on the road. That's a horrible time for one of them let go and blow off a large amount of LPG.

I would suggest you replace them, for safety reasons, ASAP.

Andy
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Old 03-02-2009, 05:53 AM   #3
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What Andy said, our 63 Safari had the same set-up. With no cover, watch for cracks in the flex lines also.

Stream safe...
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Old 03-02-2009, 06:17 AM   #4
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there are a lot of parts available

Quote:
Originally Posted by mimiandrews View Post
We've noticed that the propane regulator on our '66 Safari was mounted on the fitting that holds the bottles to the mount on the A-frame. To remove a bottle, one has to release this fitting,
A lot of the parts you will need are available, but may be differant from the original. The parts that hold down the gass bottles were steel, where as what is available today is aluminum.

Click here to see the hold-down bracket

When it comes to the gas hoses, you most likely have copper lines all the way to the bottles. That was the best thing for that day. What is available today are rubber hoses.

Click here to see one of those hoses.

The thing is, do you want to stay original? Alot of folks take great care in doing just that. Others want to retrofit and even gut the inside to modernize.

Dan
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:10 AM   #5
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Out with the old

I have similar situation. Thanks for asking these guys for input.

My 1964 Safari has hard 3/8 copper propane line run externally on the belly from refrigerator junction point to front A frame, then has two 6” coils in it (to absorb shock?), then hard connects to regulator. Stock, state of the art, 1964.

I wouldn’t want the regulator mounted any lower than it is for road protection.

Besides having to lift the hard line up with the regulator every time I fill tanks, my exposed hard line takes a beating on unpaved / gravel roads. Dings, dents, can’t be good.

Q: Is it “acceptable” to run new 6 foot long 3/8 hard copper line from refrigerator junction to A frame, perhaps INSIDE metal or PVC electrical conduit for protection with clamps riveted to belly panels, then transition at A frame to 3-4 foot flexible hose up to the regulator with enough slack to absorb some shock and allow raising regulator?

Already replaced regulator with Cavanaugh Automatic changeover and new 15" flex lines to tanks. Double flared and installed new 3/8 lines with valves inside trailer for heater, stove and furnace. And added nice new style hard tank cover from Michelle. All that’s left is that old external 6-8 foot hard line with the coils and dents.

Q: Where to find 3-4 foot flexible propane rated hose?
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:28 AM   #6
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Q: Where to find 3-4 foot flexible propane rated hose?
Check out the second link in the post by Dan4odm just above.
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:50 AM   #7
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[QUOTE
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]Q: Is it “acceptable” to run new 6 foot long 3/8 hard copper line from refrigerator junction to A frame, perhaps INSIDE metal or PVC electrical conduit for protection with clamps riveted to belly panels, then transition at A frame to 3-4 foot flexible hose up to the regulator with enough slack to absorb some shock and allow raising regulator? [/QUOTE]


Don't see why not. Thats pretty much what I did on our 63. Used flexable plastic electrical conduit, secured to the belly pan.
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Old 03-02-2009, 07:16 PM   #8
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Thanks everyone.

Andy, how much of the copper line should I replace? There's a 90-degree fitting in the line below the regulator. Is that the proper attach point for the hose from the regulator?

The first two Adel clamps under the A-frame have been loose, probably for quite a while. Could we have fatigue damage to the line from the front of the trailer to the refrigerator area.
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:44 PM   #9
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Thanks everyone.

Andy, how much of the copper line should I replace? There's a 90-degree fitting in the line below the regulator. Is that the proper attach point for the hose from the regulator?

The first two Adel clamps under the A-frame have been loose, probably for quite a while. Could we have fatigue damage to the line from the front of the trailer to the refrigerator area.

Replace from the 90 degree fitting.

Copper tubing can fatigue.

If in doubt, replace it.

Airstream has used the cast LPG regulator and bottle hold down, for over 40 years.

Andy
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:55 PM   #10
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Thanks a million! That's what I needed to know.
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Old 03-06-2009, 08:53 PM   #11
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Just to update everyone who helped me on this...

The new regulator is installed just where the old one was. The copper line below the regulator has been replaced by a hose supplied by our local propane and barbeque grill dealer. The pigtails to the bottles have been replaced also. The loose clamps under the A-frame have been re-attached, and everything seems secure.

Thanks again.
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Old 03-06-2009, 09:11 PM   #12
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Wink

After I spent 3 days looking for the proper sized conduit to run my lines thru on our 63 Safari, my DW poked her head under the trailer and asked what I was do'n. When I explained she said, "why didn't you use a length of garden hose?"
Boy do I love 'er! Now I ask first
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Old 03-07-2009, 08:15 AM   #13
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Looking for a good idea...

Has anyone got, or seen, a good tank mount for a single Worthington? I don't trust my local "experts" anymore.
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Old 03-07-2009, 09:45 AM   #14
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I have only seen J-holders for single bottles. Take a look at this thread here. Some ideas from the tear drop community.
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