propane regulator advice needed

[goransons]

So I posted this as part of our 69 trailer pics thread but didn't get any suggestions so I thought I'd post it in the propane area and hope that someone can help.

First and foremost we're concerned about safety, but also want to not throw away money or good parts. We have all new appliances coming, RM2562 Fridge, Suburban 22" range and 10 gallon water heater.

I have 2 new tanks installed ready to go. With the shutoff valves at each appliance off I've pressure tested the lines with the regulator removed and no leaks over a 12 hour period. Once the appliances arrive and I get them installed, I'll want to get the system pressurized with a regulator and test everything out.

The propane system was already disassembled somewhat due to the po's mid gut job. The regulator I know nothing about, a Marshall model 230. Shows signs of being outside (rust on the screw heads, discoloring of plastic parts). Unsure if it works or for that matter how to test it to see if it works other than hooking it up. New hoses are in order either way. Is this worth testing/keeping or should I replace with a new model? I don't want to damage the new appliances in any way. Also if replacement is necessary what is a good model/brand to go with?

I really appreciate your input.

Here's a photo of the regulator that came with the trailer:

[Tim A.]

You can get a new Marshall regulator with automatic changeover (between 2 tanks) for for about $40 to $60. Regulator problems are no fun and the cost of a new regulator is low enough that trying to repair an old one is probably a waste.

[Fyrzowt]

I think Tim gave good advice. It's worth the money for peace of mind.
Dave

[silverleeper]

I replaced mine. Compared to your other upgrades a new regulator is inexpensive. I got mine here.

[lewster]

Regulators are generally NOT field serviceable. That said, when you throw in the relatively low cost of a new part into the overall safety equation, it makes no sense to mess with an old one.

I have been perticularly impressed with the new Cavagna #70-A-190-0016, 2-stage regulator. They are well made and have a very large window at the top to easily see the fill conditions of your tanks, and a lge knob to switch tanks that is easy to use. They retail for about $53.

[CanoeStream]

Lew, I threw that brand & number in Google to take a look. Looks like it's on sale for $40.31 - Automatic Changeover LP Regulator

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by lewster

I have been perticularly impressed with the new Cavagna #70-A-190-0016, 2-stage regulator. They are well made and have a very large window at the top to easily see the fill conditions of your tanks, and a lge knob to switch tanks that is easy to use. They retail for about $53.

That regulator was on Bertha when when got the trailer, it works as intended, with no problems. If and when we need another one, I'll probably replace it with another just like it.

[Lumatic]

The problem with old regulators is the diaphragm gets stiff and gas pressure is reduced. You can make a home made manometer with a U shaped tube with one end hooked up to the regulator. As you apply gas pressure you will see a difference in the water levels. The level on the pressurized side will go down and the unpressured size will go up. With a good regulator you should get a difference of about 11" water column pressure.

[goransons]

I definately like that readout better than others I've seen. I just thought I'd ask because after seeing vent handles selling for 60 bucks a pair on ebay I didn't want to toss a regulator that might be worth more than the replacement and still work fine, but it sounds like it should be replaced.

Price isn't bad, but as you all probably know better than us, it seems the AS gets finished must slower than our budget does!

[LRPorter]

Anyway to learn how to adjust pressure while in transit? I have a new regulator but no manual. I have a new inverter but no manual. I guess I need a new service man.

My problem was that I assume that I am asking dumb questions and the service people seem to resent questions. The problem of course is that when you are on the road you are on your own.

[lewster]

Bob,

Nice detective work.........THAT'S THE ONE!!!!

LR,

No service person should cop an attitude, espcially when you are paying the bill!!!!!! Many times, my clients watch me when I work....not because they don't trust me, but because they are truly interested in learning about the particular component. I even provide a runnng commentary!

That said, LP regulators are not difficult to adjust, but they should be set with at least a 50% propane load and adjusted to the industry standard of 11" water guage (WG) (the term 'water column' or WC, was replaced with WG several yers ago due to the confusion it causes when you look at an LP tank and see 'WC on it. This WC refers to the water capacity of the particular LP tank and specifies it's lquid capacity when filling it......see why it's confusing and was changed?)

Anyway, I would never adjust any regulator for any LP appliance without an accurate manometer to measure the LP pressure. ANYONE who calls themselves an RV tech should be properly equipped and trained to make this adjustment for you.

Basically, there is a cover over an adjusting screw (usually a hex) on top of the diaphram. The screw changes the pre-set pressure on the diaphram.......thus adjusting th LP pressure that it allows to pass thru to the system. You must be very careful when adjusting this screw, as over tightening will result in damage to the diaphram.

Hope this helps!

[Motoman]

Originally Posted by lewster

Bob,

Nice detective work.........THAT'S THE ONE!!!!

LR,

No service person should cop an attitude, espcially when you are paying the bill!!!!!! Many times, my clients watch me when I work....not because they don't trust me, but because they are truly interested in learning about the particular component. I even provide a runnng commentary!

That said, LP regulators are not difficult to adjust, but they should be set with at least a 50% propane load and adjusted to the industry standard of 11" water guage (WG) (the term 'water column' or WC, was replaced with WG several yers ago due to the confusion it causes when you look at an LP tank and see 'WC on it. This WC refers to the water capacity of the particular LP tank and specifies it's lquid capacity when filling it......see why it's confusing and was changed?)

Anyway, I would never adjust any regulator for any LP appliance without an accurate manometer to measure the LP pressure. ANYONE who calls themselves an RV tech should be properly equipped and trained to make this adjustment for you.

Basically, there is a cover over an adjusting screw (usually a hex) on top of the diaphram. The screw changes the pre-set pressure on the diaphram.......thus adjusting th LP pressure that it allows to pass thru to the system. You must be very careful when adjusting this screw, as over tightening will result in damage to the diaphram.

Hope this helps!

Lew, it seems that the Marshal Regulators used by Airstream and many others are not set from the factory to the recommended 11 inches of water gauge. I have tested the pressure of six different Airstreams, three had replacement Marshall regulators and three were original with the Airstream and typically have found the pressure to be 8 to 9 inches WG using a manometer that I constructed. None were more than four years old. Four of the six would not adjust to the 11 inches, stopping at 10 to 10 1/2 inches WG, of these four three were new replacements!

Have you seen any trend in Marshall regulators not adjusting to the industry standard. Our friends back east might not have a problem with the lower pressures but here in California with 100 degree outside temperatures it can mean the difference between 50 degrees inside the refrig vs 40 degrees.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by Motoman

Lew, it seems that the Marshal Regulators used by Airstream and many others are not set from the factory to the recommended 11 inches of water gauge. I have tested the pressure of six different Airstreams, three had replacement Marshall regulators and three were original with the Airstream and typically have found the pressure to be 8 to 9 inches WG using a manometer that I constructed. None were more than four years old. Four of the six would not adjust to the 11 inches, stopping at 10 to 10 1/2 inches WG, of these four three were new replacements!

Have you seen any trend in Marshall regulators not adjusting to the industry standard. Our friends back east might not have a problem with the lower pressures but here in California with 100 degree outside temperatures it can mean the difference between 50 degrees inside the refrig vs 40 degrees.

Hey Don,

I haven't noticed any 'trend' yet.......but I'll keep a look out of I get a rash of low output regulators.

[mandolindave]

I had the big old original heavy duty regulator on my 1973 trailer. It looked like it belonged on a submarine. I thought that it was time for a new one. Andy at Inland shipped me an exact replacement. It looks cool. It gives me piece of mind. I had heard too many scary stories about the Marshalls.
As I recall, it was well over $100. But my daughter stays in my camper sometimes. Some may think that I am foolish for spending the money. Piece of mind ??????? Priceless. Just an opinion here, as I am not an expert by any stretch of the imagination.

[Motoman]

Originally Posted by lewster

Hey Don,

I haven't noticed any 'trend' yet.......but I'll keep a look out of I get a rash of low output regulators.

If you are interested we could compare the manometer I built to your gauge at the balloon Fiesta. Iit should always be in calibration unless I did something that would restrict pressure to the tube. If so I don't want to keep using it.

Not to hijack the thread but might also need you to troubleshoot my electric brakes, intermittent short shows on Prodigy but brakes still work. Prodigy was replaced but made no difference. Didn't have this problem till we bought current trailer. Airstream (Jackson Center) said they think it is in the truck connector but I think he let his probe short to the center pin which would show resistance through the backup light bulb filaments to ground. If you have equipment to simulate load to truck connector or power trailer cable to check current draw I may need some service. You can let me know by PM off thread.

[hublocker]

I am very new here.

The situation is that a good friend has offered me the use of her rural property and 1973 Airstream for weekending if she is not using it.

She just bought it 2nd hand and towed it to her place last weekend, and I'm going tomorrow. She has asked me to look at the system to see why the stove will not turn on.

She was told the propane works, but when she tried it it didn't.

There is a furnace, fridge and stove. I'm primarily interested in getting the stove going.

Where do I start in troubleshooting this system?

I had a cabin once with a simple propane system, one stove and one lamp, but that is all I know about using propane besides the BBQ.

[Bluto]

Originally Posted by silverleeper

I replaced mine. Compared to your other upgrades a new regulator is inexpensive. I got mine here.

Thanks for the site. I need that exact regulator also and the cover too. My old regulator lets the gas flow past the regulator from the full tank and into the hose of the empty tank. I discovered this when I was removing the empty tank to get it refilled.

[dznf0g]

I am reviving this thread with a question.

While traveling this summer I noticed some erratic behavior with most of my LP devices, including yellow tipped stove flames, among other odd behaviors. This occurred above 6000' elevation.

So I eliminated all the obvious checks and decided when I got home to buy a quality LP pressure gauge. Like the above posts, I found my static pressure to be low measured at the disconnected stove line BEFORE or upstream of the additional stove "step down" regulator. I found my static (closed system) pressure to be a wee bit over 9". After turning on the furnace, I measured the "loaded" pressure to be just below 8".

I found a propane website which recommended adjusting the WG pressure to 11" WITH a high demand device ON. Then the static pressure should rise to no more than 14" with the load turned off.

I adjusted to 11" and my static rise was to 12.5".

My question is: I find no reference to this methodology in any of the threads on Airforums. Should static pressure be 11" or dynamic pressure be 11"?

Lewster???????

Edit: Here is the site I took my advice from.

http://www.rvdoctor.com/2002/01/what...ne-system.html

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

I am reviving this thread with a question.

While traveling this summer I noticed some erratic behavior with most of my LP devices, including yellow tipped stove flames, among other odd behaviors. This occurred above 6000' elevation.

So I eliminated all the obvious checks and decided when I got home to buy a quality LP pressure gauge. Like the above posts, I found my static pressure to be low measured at the disconnected stove line BEFORE or upstream of the additional stove "step down" regulator. I found my static (closed system) pressure to be a wee bit over 9". After turning on the furnace, I measured the "loaded" pressure to be just below 8".

I found a propane website which recommended adjusting the WG pressure to 11" WITH a high demand device ON. Then the static pressure should rise to no more than 14" with the load turned off.

I adjusted to 11" and my static rise was to 12.5".

My question is: I find no reference to this methodology in any of the threads on Airforums. Should static pressure be 11" or dynamic pressure be 11"?

Lewster???????

Edit: Here is the site I took my advice from.

The RV Doctor: What the Pro's Do - Propane System

Ths static pressure should be set to 11 to 13 inches of water column pressure.

If you will go to higher altitudes, then set it to 13 inches. Then it will work fine for all occasions.

Andy

[dznf0g]

Thanks, Andy. Sounds like my adjustment is right in the ball park then?