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Old 09-07-2016, 09:51 AM   #15
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My pigtails became worn with age. I replaced both but one continues to leak. I have replaced it with another new pigtail, used yellow tape, tightened, loosened, all to no avail, it continues to leak. Is the regulator easily found so I can try replacing that?
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Old 09-07-2016, 11:03 AM   #16
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propane valve gaskets

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Originally Posted by featherbedder View Post
Where are gaskets on tanks? All propane cylinders including 500 gal. or larger the valve screws into tanks, no gaskets then lines go to regulator. New parts are less money than tanks.
The gaskets are inside the tank nozzle. They cannot be replaced, the whole valve assembly has to be replaced. Unscrew your pigtail from the tank and look inside the tank valve, you will see what I am looking at. To replace the valve was around $30. to replace the 30lb tank was $55 (they gave me a deal since it failed after the re-certified the tank.)
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Old 09-07-2016, 11:07 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Chaplain Kent View Post
My pigtails became worn with age. I replaced both but one continues to leak. I have replaced it with another new pigtail, used yellow tape, tightened, loosened, all to no avail, it continues to leak. Is the regulator easily found so I can try replacing that?
this is the one I got but there are many different versions. This one autoswitches when one tank is empty.

tank regulator


I just slipped it over the piece of all thread that rises between the tanks and locked it down with the tank locking nut (if that makes sense).
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Old 09-07-2016, 11:09 AM   #18
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I got 2 pigtails and pipe dope at the local propane store.
I hope I got the right ones.
Don't know if mine are tapered ends or regular pipe fitting ends-


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Old 09-07-2016, 11:41 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
I got 2 pigtails and pipe dope at the local propane store.
I hope I got the right ones.
Don't know if mine are tapered ends or regular pipe fitting ends-


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as long as they look like the ones you pulled off you should be good. I found a good picture of an inverted flare.

Inverted flare

I just did all of this when I replaced all the connections coming off the main gas line into the trailer. even learned how to do my own flare ends on copper. Old airstreams... you learn about a lot of things you never would have dreamed of learning.
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Old 09-07-2016, 11:57 AM   #20
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I haven't pulled them off yet...
The ones I bought look very similar to the one in the inverted flare picture except for that very narrow extra hex section. There is just one section of hex head on the ones I bought as well as the ones on the trailer. The hex portion is a little longer on the new ones.
If I remove the old ones and discover I have the wrong thing I will return them, but for some reason I have a feeling these are correct.
So...
Pipe dope or no pipe dope? I got it if I need it.
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Old 09-07-2016, 12:37 PM   #21
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NPT, or "Nat'l Pipe Thread" fittings look like ordinary bolt threads or ordinary machine-screw threads....but if you look closely you will see the actual threads taper slightly to a smaller size at the open end, and a thicker (larger diameter) at the distant end. This is so that as the fitting is inserted and tightened, the threads are gaining slightly in size...so they will automatically tighten to a leak-free level.
The first pic I have posted is NPT, and this link https://www.amazon.com/Camco-59843-P...il+pipe+thread
is an example of one at Amazon, (if you slide your cursor over the pic on amazon you can see the details of the npt end-fitting.)

The SECOND pic is that of an inverse-flare fitting. It is designed to seal internally against a mating-surface within another brass fitting which looks like a slightly raised area or "bump-with-a-hole" in it. See the pic... and then look at the second link, which is a pigtail with an inverse flare end-fitting. (unfortunate not to see in this angle, but the open end of the brass fitting is a "cone" shape, like looking down into a funnel.)
https://www.amazon.com/Flame-King-10...inverted+flare

Now, to further the examples: Here is an adaptor which, looking inside the female portion, you can see the "bump" with a hole in it to accept the male inverse-flare fitting. The MALE threads of this adaptor is NPT (nat'l pipe thread)...slightly tapered. This would be used if someone purchased an inverse-flare pigtail...but needed to mate it to a NPT regulator.


Of course the better method would be to purchase the correct pigtail to begin with.
Use pipe dope or Teflon tape only on NPT threads. (Never on flares.)
Here's an example... in this last pic (of the inverseflare-to-npt adaptor) you might use pipe dope on the male threads of the NPT portion, but never on the female threads of the InvFlr portion. Why?... because the male threads of the NPT form the sealing surface and need to be sealed...but the inverse-flare fitting seals at the point where the internal "bump" fits up against the internal matching "cone" of the MALE inv-flr fitting. (see that cone at the open end of the second illustration below?)
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Old 09-07-2016, 12:43 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
I haven't pulled them off yet...
The ones I bought look very similar to the one in the inverted flare picture except for that very narrow extra hex section. There is just one section of hex head on the ones I bought as well as the ones on the trailer. The hex portion is a little longer on the new ones.
If I remove the old ones and discover I have the wrong thing I will return them, but for some reason I have a feeling these are correct.
So...
Pipe dope or no pipe dope? I got it if I need it.
I do, but... be very careful that none of the tape sticks over into the the end and intrudes on the flare. none of it. if you are using dope it works the same, be sure the flare part of the fitting is clean before you screw it on. The only reason I use it is to add tension to the thread connection. The flare fitting establishes its seal by a clean pressure connection on the flare section of the fitting. there are some great videos on youtube about flare gas fittings.They can tell you how tight to crank it etc.
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Old 09-07-2016, 01:08 PM   #23
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What's there has some very thick tape around the threads.


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Old 09-07-2016, 01:17 PM   #24
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What's there has some very thick tape around the threads.


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It's pretty common to see it everywhere. I used it as a sort of "locktite" material on the threads of my flare fittings.

Oh! I was going to mention, be sure to use two wrenches when disconnecting and connecting the pigtail, one on the regulator to counter pressure the tension on the pigtail you are removing.
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Old 09-07-2016, 01:21 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leadvox View Post
The gaskets are inside the tank nozzle. They cannot be replaced, the whole valve assembly has to be replaced. Unscrew your pigtail from the tank and look inside the tank valve, you will see what I am looking at. To replace the valve was around $30. to replace the 30lb tank was $55 (they gave me a deal since it failed after the re-certified the tank.)
I knew of gaskets inside outlet end of valveI did not no why had to pur. new tanks when valve needed replaced. Didn't explain fully why replaced tanks in post, but I'm guilty of doing same thing.
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Old 09-07-2016, 02:21 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leadvox View Post
It's pretty common to see it everywhere. I used it as a sort of "locktite" material on the threads of my flare fittings.

Oh! I was going to mention, be sure to use two wrenches when disconnecting and connecting the pigtail, one on the regulator to counter pressure the tension on the pigtail you are removing.
If the regulator has a brass-adaptor-fitting between the pigtail and regulator it's very likely an inverse-flare setup. (The regulator is threaded with NPT, and the adaptor is installed in order to accommodate a pigtail with inverse-flare end.)
If one finds oneself in possession of an NPT pigtail...then consider removing the inverse-flare adaptor from the regulator and screwing the pigtail directly into the regulator's npt threads. (using a bit of pipe dope, of course.)

BTW... Teflon tape and pipe dope are commonly over-used. Only a very small amount is appropriate. Excessive amounts will interfere with the very sealing you are attempting. (In fact, pipe threads by design need no sealant at all...especially if both are brass which is self-sealing....as the very design of the pipe thread taper is to assure proper sealing.... the sealant is primarily a lubricant to prevent galling of the threads. Dope or tape is mandatory on steel, zinc, etc.

Tape or sealant on flare fittings can prevent the flare from bottoming onto the sealing surface, so none should be used at all. Simply tighten until firm, then 1/8th turn further only, so as to avoid stripping the threads and deforming the mating surfaces.

Hope this helps. (I passed Plumbing Merit Badge when I was 12.)
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Old 09-07-2016, 02:22 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leadvox View Post
It's pretty common to see it everywhere. I used it as a sort of "locktite" material on the threads of my flare fittings.

Oh! I was going to mention, be sure to use two wrenches when disconnecting and connecting the pigtail, one on the regulator to counter pressure the tension on the pigtail you are removing.
It had occurred to me to use 2 wrenches to keep from wrenching the regulator right off.
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Old 09-18-2016, 04:29 PM   #28
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I bought the wrong propane hose connectors.
The ones I bought were male inverted flare.
Apparently the ones on the trailer are 1/4" MNPT.
In a Google search I find 20-30 male inverted flare to one 1/4" MNPT.
Where do y'all buy them?
I will call/email Airstream tomorrow.


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