Propane getting to stove burners but not water heater?

[bambiangel]

So finally got the water somewhat working and decided to try to use the propane. Got the burners on the stove working, but still can't figure out why the water heater doesn't light. Definitely see a spark when we try and turn the water heater button on, but it doesn't light. Not sure if there's some other valve or button that makes sure gas is actually getting to the water heater lighter section of the trailer. Thanks. Pictures included again.

[woodfox45]

Check for spider nest in your burner jet they likr the smell of propane

[dbj216]

Sometimes my water heater won't light because there is air in the propane line. So I crack the gas connection at the water heater for a few seconds until I get the strong smell of propane. It only takes a few seconds.

Another reason is the gas valve has malfunctioned. You can hear the igniter sparking, but no ignition.

And as woodfox45 mentioned, a plugged burner tube can also be a cause of failed ignition. Cleaning the gas burner feed tube is not difficult, but don't clean the orifice by sticking a wire in the ID.

David

[bambiangel]

This may reveal my ignorance but, how do you "crack the gas connection at the water heater". It all looks like solid metal tubing (see one of the pictures I attached to this thread". Also, how would I go about cleaning out the propane tube? Thanks!

[OTRA15]

Not sure why you started a new thread, but for everyone's info here are the old ones on the water heater:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f163...ng-166192.html

and the water connection:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f163...er-166190.html

Good luck!

Peter

[NoResults]

Search U tube for video on servicing your water heater. It shows how to take care of the spider problem etc. I don't have the link I had found it by accident. Dave

[IAMGLG]

Originally Posted by bambiangel

So finally got the water somewhat working and decided to try to use the propane. Got the burners on the stove working, but still can't figure out why the water heater doesn't light. Definitely see a spark when we try and turn the water heater button on, but it doesn't light. Not sure if there's some other valve or button that makes sure gas is actually getting to the water heater lighter section of the trailer. Thanks. Pictures included again.

Your pressure regulator at the tank is probably bad. Gives enough pressure for the stove but not for the heater.

[Tim A.]

Originally Posted by IAMGLG

Your pressure regulator at the tank is probably bad. Gives enough pressure for the stove but not for the heater.

Exactly the problem we had years ago.

Tim

[VT Wanderer]

I light all the stove burners with a long handle lighter first - including the oven. I let them burn full flame (air vent going over stove) Then I start the water heater - next the furnace for heating - next the refrigerator (with electric off so that the LP starts up) I do this every time after long storage. Note - the stove may take a while for the first burner to start as the air clears out of the lines. After that you should be golden.

[Moonstruck]

...I heartily concur!
However, have a little spy underneath and see if the inline valve is switched off. The lever will be at right angles to the valve if it is off.

[HowieE]

Crack the flare nut the connects to the gas valve of the water heater till you smell gas and tighten it up. 2 wrenches will be required. one on the flare nut and one on the body of the gas valve.

You may also find the refrig does not light on gas for the same reason.They each have real small orifice and will not purge the air in the lines.

In the future never remove a tank without moving the selector switch to a tank with gas in it. failure to maintain pressure on the line allows air to get in the lines.

[rmkrum]

By 'crack the connection' we mean use a wrench to slightly loosen the nut on the connection so gas will leak out slowly. Hold the other part of the fitting with another wrench so you don't twist it or damage it. It should not take a full turn of the nut to get gas flowing.

Lefty-loosy, righty-tighty is the basic rule of which way to turn the nut.

If you happen to be married to a Brit like I am, its, "Anti-clockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten with a spanner"

[SuperTrouper]

Originally Posted by VT Wanderer

I light all the stove burners with a long handle lighter first - including the oven. I let them burn full flame (air vent going over stove) Then I start the water heater - next the furnace for heating - next the refrigerator (with electric off so that the LP starts up) I do this every time after long storage. Note - the stove may take a while for the first burner to start as the air clears out of the lines. After that you should be golden.

Yup, I have a slightly different sequence as the furnace is furthest away, I light the burners on the stove first, then turn on the furnace, then the WH and Fridge. When I first bought and parked the trailer another RV owner walked up and said hello and he gave me the "you gotta run the gas for a while after the camper has been stored because of air in the lines". Glad he told me before I thought that I had a set of bum appliances!

[JCWDCW]

If cracking the gas line to bleed it off doesn't work, try jumping the two Thermodiscs to see if one of them is open. Also check that you hear, or use a volt meter to see if the gas valve is opening or at least getting 12 V. You'll need two people since you need to be at the valve when it is first turned on.Test from the supply terminal on the gas valve to ground (the one that comes off the control board).
Personally I think bleeding the line is unnecessary. I do the stove first then the fridge and then the WH as that is the sequence of supply in my 25 ft. It should not take more than three or four tries to get enough gas to ignite, and that is if I don't start the fridge first
JCW

[bambiangel]

Thank you all for the useful information! Got the hot water tank working! We tried first the suggestion of turning on all the burners on the stove and then tried to light the tank. I think we didn't let it attempt to light long enough the first time around because after just a few seconds of turning it on, it lit. About 15/20 minutes later, we had pipping hot water! So, for a follow up question, does the pilot light turn off on its own once it reaches maximum temperature, or do we just turn it off on our own? Obviously we only light it when we want to use hot water and then turn it off when we're done, I don't want to know if there's ever a point where the pilot light will turn off on its own. Thanks!

[dbj216]

These new fangled water heaters don't have a "pilot light". They have electronic ignition so you don't have to stand out in the rain and wind trying to light the pilot light on the water heater (or furnace for that matter.). Even your stove may have electronic ignition, turn the control knob and hear the "tick, tick, tick," as the ignitor provides the spark. Pilot lights waste propane.

I believe you would use less propane if you turn your water heater on in the morning and then turn it off at night. We don't find a need to heat water all night. I think if you allowed the water heater to cool during the day while you're away, it would take more energy to heat it up again when you got back. We let the automatic controls maintain the temp of the 6 gallons of water in the heater.

Glad it's running without a major hassle.

David

[HowieE]

Originally Posted by bambiangel

So, for a follow up question, does the pilot light turn off on its own once it reaches maximum temperature, or do we just turn it off on our own? Obviously we only light it when we want to use hot water and then turn it off when we're done, I don't want to know if there's ever a point where the pilot light will turn off on its own. Thanks!

If your heater has a pilot light, and I would doubt a 2013 trailer would have one, leave it on as it does not burn enough gas to justify having to light it when you want hot water. In fact during the warmer parts of summer the pilot light on my old trailer kept heated water warm.

As for jumping the thermistors as a test. One makes on temperature drop, to turn the heater on, and one opens at high temperature to shut the heater off. Jumping both out is OK for a test but left unattended the heater will pop the safety valve as it goes over temperature.

[IAMGLG]

Originally Posted by bambiangel

Thank you all for the useful information! Got the hot water tank working! We tried first the suggestion of turning on all the burners on the stove and then tried to light the tank. I think we didn't let it attempt to light long enough the first time around because after just a few seconds of turning it on, it lit. About 15/20 minutes later, we had pipping hot water! So, for a follow up question, does the pilot light turn off on its own once it reaches maximum temperature, or do we just turn it off on our own? Obviously we only light it when we want to use hot water and then turn it off when we're done, I don't want to know if there's ever a point where the pilot light will turn off on its own. Thanks!

If you are a little handy get one of those outdoor thermometers with a cable on it. Put the temperature probe on the top of the hot water tank where the pipe comes out of the top. Secure it with some wire or tape that will take 120 degrees or so. Then route the wire back to the temperature readout so you can see how hot the water is, and when it gets to about 104 degrees shut off the water heater, maybe your rig is too old to be able to start and stop the water heating from inside the trailer. The point is there's no reason to heat the water (and waste the gas) over 104 degrees which is scalding. We have a 6 gallon tank in our AS and when we see the water temp at 104 we shut off the heater, there is plenty of hot water for a shower...and you don't have to mix the cold water with the hot water to get the temp to shower. I used to hate to waste precious cold water with too hot hot water to take a shower, now I turn the shower on and it's precisely the temperature I want it to be. Works great and saves both gas and water, a win win.

[dbj216]

Hi IamGLG: Maybe there is a typo or something. My water heater in the Airstream heats to 140F. This is scalding hot, and not safe for kids. Many RV water heaters are set to this high temp so you can mix it with cold and get longer lasting hot water for a quick shower.

104 degrees is warm. A hot tub is about 100 or so. At work, we ran our oil temps at 120, which was within OSHA parameters for working. It was "hot" but would not burn if it spilled on you. 140 degrees I can touch, but not leave my hand in it. It's darn HOT. The 200 degree coolant in our cars will scald you bad if it sprays on you.

This is my undersanding, although possibly not correct.

David

[IAMGLG]

Originally Posted by dbj216

Hi IamGLG: Maybe there is a typo or something. My water heater in the Airstream heats to 140F. This is scalding hot, and not safe for kids. Many RV water heaters are set to this high temp so you can mix it with cold and get longer lasting hot water for a quick shower.

104 degrees is warm. A hot tub is about 100 or so. At work, we ran our oil temps at 120, which was within OSHA parameters for working. It was "hot" but would not burn if it spilled on you. 140 degrees I can touch, but not leave my hand in it. It's darn HOT. The 200 degree coolant in our cars will scald you bad if it sprays on you.

This is my undersanding, although possibly not correct.

David

It is very hard to take a shower in water hotter that 105 or so, it would be very uncomfortable. 15 degrees above that is certified scalding. If you are hooked up to WES campsites then you can afford to mix hot and cold water to get what you want but unless you have a dual heat water heater you're still going to burn propane needlessly to take the water up to the 130 or 140 the water heater thermostat is set at. Why go to the effort of heating water only to cool it again to take a shower? My point is that with a simple, readily available outside temperature gauge with a dongle type thermocouple attached to the output of the water heater you can monitor the water to a temperature level that INSTANTLY suits you best for a shower while saving propane, water and electricity (and grey tankage). Boondocking makes you think of all the ways to save water, electricity, and propane and this is one sure way to do it.