Propane Alarm Stays On with Battery Disconnect

[Newmarketca]

I have a new 2015 27FB International that we have just completed a 2 week shakedown trip.

When putting it into my rental storage space I used the battery disconnect to ensure that there were not any parasitic power drains. On returning to the trailer the next day I noticed that the propane alarm was still active and turned on. Is this normal?

Is there anything else that stays active even though the battery disconnect has bee used?

Should I pull the fuse or physically disconnect the battery at the battery box?

Mike

[xrvr]

Alarm is hot wired to battery for safety.

[AWCHIEF]

Yes, normal operation. The detector is hard wired and can not be turned off without disconecting the battery terminals.

[Newmarketca]

Supper - Thanks for answering so quickly! I will disconnect the battery at the negative terminal so that they don`t go dead over the next two weeks while in storage.

Mike

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by Newmarketca

Should I pull the fuse or physically disconnect the battery at the battery box?

Don't— unless you also physically disconnect the propane cylinders. As long as the cylinders are connected, propane can leak whether the power is on or off, so it makes sense for the LPG detector to remain on whether the power is on or off.

But with the cylinders disconnected, it's not possible for propane to leak inside the trailer, and so it's quite all right to disconnect the alarm as well.

[xrvr]

That's the safety part, good point!

[Newmarketca]

Good Point! I had turned the cylinders off but should also disconnect the pig tails.

[lewster]

Placing the LP detector into the battery disconnect circuit is a simple job. Locate the positive bus bar (it's the one below the disconnect solenoid with the small circuit breakers) and you'll see a single usually black wire with a small in Lind fuse holder. This is connected directly to the copper strip on the top of the bus.

If you move this wire off the copper strip ( which is energized directly from the battery and is not part of the disconnect circuit) to a connection below the copper bar, it will now be in the disconnect circuit.

A 3/8" nut driver is the only tool you need.


Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally Certified Master Tech
Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center
Lifeline Batteries**Magnum Inverters
541-490-6357

[Newmarketca]

Thanks Lew! Might be a whole lot easier that disconnecting the battery every time I put it into storage.

Mike

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by lewster

Placing the LP detector into the battery disconnect circuit is a simple job. Locate the positive bus bar (it's the one below the disconnect solenoid with the small circuit breakers) and you'll see a single usually black wire with a small in Lind fuse holder. This is connected directly to the copper strip on the top of the bus.

If you move this wire off the copper strip ( which is energized directly from the battery and is not part of the disconnect circuit) to a connection below the copper bar, it will now be in the disconnect circuit.

That is essentially what I did. My wiring change was a little more involved because of the location of the connections, but I put the propane detector on the trailer side of the disconnect switch rather than the battery side where it was. I put the switch in store and shut off the propane but I don't disconnect the pigtails. I figure that the valve on the tank should work, and if it didn't and the propane detector went off, the battery would probably be dead from the alarm before anyone noticed it. When I come back to the trailer I turn on the store/use switch and don't turn the propane on until later.

Al

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

That is essentially what I did. My wiring change was a little more involved because of the location of the connections, but I put the propane detector on the trailer side of the disconnect switch rather than the battery side where it was. I put the switch in store and shut off the propane but I don't disconnect the pigtails. I figure that the valve on the tank should work, and if it didn't and the propane detector went off, the battery would probably be dead from the alarm before anyone noticed it. When I come back to the trailer I turn on the store/use switch and don't turn the propane on until later.

Al

Yup.....me too

[nwclassic]

Mike - Our '02 does/did the same thing. Using one side of the, 'If a tree falls in the forest…' logic, I cut the power wire at the detector (inside the closet) and crimped on a coupling that I disconnect during storage. I saw no benefit in having the alarm scream unheard until it drained our batteries (at which point it is just as silent as removing the power from it selectively). Cat skinning offers a few choices. Great forum to get ideas!
Brian

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by nwclassic

Mike - Our '02 does/did the same thing. Using one side of the, 'If a tree falls in the forest…' logic, I cut the power wire at the detector (inside the closet) and crimped on a coupling that I disconnect during storage. I saw no benefit in having the alarm scream unheard until it drained our batteries (at which point it is just as silent as removing the power from it selectively). Cat skinning offers a few choices. Great forum to get ideas!

Brian

Interesting solution. Any pics?

[nwclassic]

No pix, but easy to visualize: Our detector is mounted below the closet door. The closet floor is hinged allowing access to the (detector) back where the power wire joins it. Go to any auto parts store and ask for 12v wire fittings. They are usually on a display carrousel. They are colored for wire size. If you cut off a half inch of your wire, you can hand it to the salesperson and say, "I want to join two pieces of this with a coupling I can take apart." You'll be sold a bag of couplings that have a male and female half. Strip each end. Crimp each half (buy stripping/crimping pliers?). Push them together. Pull them apart. Repeat. Presto!
Hope this helps.

[idroba]

Things that can take battery power with the USE/STORE switch in Store mode:

1. Propane detector
2. Inverter (if equipped and turned on)
3. Power jack and lights on jack


The propane detector does not take a lot of power, but if left on with connected batteries for a month or more can discharge batteries. I recommend total disconnection of the batteries (negative terminal wires pulled) for storage of over a month, and that assumes the batteries are fully charged when put into storage. My definition of "fully charged" is having been left plugged in in USE position for at least 24 hours with any single or three stage charger.

[SteveSueMac]

Yes, helpful description.

Also good suggestion on disconnecting negative battery cables for long term storage...

[Msmoto]

I would suggest purchase of an individual propane alarm and placing it inside the trailer, especially if you turn off the hard wired detector. These battery powered independent units last a long time, but can prevent a potential disaster should there be a propane leak....tanks on or off.

The other idea is to place a battery tender on the battery when in storage... not always possible I understand, but may be better for the batteries as well.

And, if a CO alarm can be included in the individual unit...better still. Odorless gases such as CO can be deadly, not in immediate death, but in impairment of activity/decision making in small doses. And around trailers we need to be very attentive to what we are doing.

[Newmarketca]

I realise the propane alarm does not use a lot of power but I am curious on the battery impact of leaving it on for a week or so. Does anyone know how much of an amp the propane alarm draws?

Thanks Mike

[idroba]

On my 2014 FC 20', the propane detector takes 0.06 amp.

[field & stream]

idroba -- Thanks. I have been trying to isolate a 0.07 draw on the battery in my Basecamp, and I think you found it !