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Old 02-16-2007, 04:55 PM   #15
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I'm in for the same. I had trouble getting mine working, and thought maybe I should just replace the whole furnace with a newer unit. I'll pull the existing unit out and inspect it, then make a determination. It can't be too complicated, but the risk to safety is high if things aren't done right in this area. I was reading on catalytic heaters. No thanks, I prefer to wake up not dead.
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Old 02-18-2007, 10:34 PM   #16
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I have another question, how do you get it out, and what is a sail switch and where might it be located? My husband worked for a coule of hours trying to get the furnace apart but to no avail. We really dont want to have to take the entire cabinet apart if we dont have to. Is there a trick to it?
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Old 02-19-2007, 06:34 AM   #17
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A Sail Switch.........

........is also called an 'air prover switch' and will be located somewhere on the blower housing. It is a momentary contact switch that is normally open, and has a long piece of lightweight metal attached to it. When the blower powers up, the air in the chamber pushes on the metal 'sail' and closes the switch, telling the furnace that there is sufficient air flowing thru it to allow the gas valve to open and continue with the ignition process.

You can test this switch for continuity with an ohm meter...zero reading when open and a definite reading when you close the sail with your finger (FAN OFF!!!). You can also trace the electrical path to be sure that the thermostat and ECO (high limit switch) also have continuity.

As far as removal, I've never had to take out a unit that old, but generally, you remove that front of the cabinet and look for hold-down screws at the floor level. Disconnect the LP and electrical and out it should come.

I'm sure some of the restoration experts here will know the exact procedure.
Have fun and be careful!!!! If you can't figure something out, have a QUALIFIED professional look at it, as with all LP appliances, they CAN kill you if improperly serviced. BE SAFE!!!
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Old 02-23-2007, 06:20 PM   #18
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Hello,
I have just about decided not to clean the furnace myself, but rather find somebody that is qualified. In the begining the pilot would light and stay lit most of the time, the heat worked good. Every once in a while when the furnace would kick back on it would blow out the pilot. Well, I blew out the gas lines with air, the stove, oven, and fridge all worked better after this. However the pilot will not light at all now, seems that the air made it much worse.

John
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Old 02-23-2007, 07:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Threads
...... Every once in a while when the furnace would kick back on it would blow out the pilot......
That's a little different variation on your initial description and reminds me now of my furnace problem. I described it in the thread "furnace goes whoosh". I was able to get a stable pilot that survived lighting by cleaning the gas valve. The valve was a little gummed up which allowed a small amount of gas to leak by causing a small explosion upon lighting. That's what blew out the pilot. With the pilot access cap off the flames even shot out of the hole!

Good luck,

Steve
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Old 02-24-2007, 10:08 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Threads
Hello,
.Well, I blew out the gas lines with air, the stove, oven, and fridge all worked better after this. However the pilot will not light at all now, seems that the air made it much worse.

John
Sounds like you blew debris into the pilot light mechanism.

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