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Old 03-30-2007, 08:55 PM   #1
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New tanks, old regulator...

I know that I have to replace the old style tanks, but I'm trying to do this in stages. Can I use the existing regulator/switch, with new supply hoses? I'm puzzled by the connection (old copper flared line). I took off the line, and then the connection at the bottom of the regulator. Inside, was a square, spring loaded deal that looked like a graphite brush in a motor. It was pressing against a needle-thing coming down out of the regulator body.
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Old 03-30-2007, 09:58 PM   #2
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Is that a line for a gas lamp? pilot light?
I happen to have two 30# 1 year old Al tanks that I no longer need.
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Old 03-30-2007, 10:03 PM   #3
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Nope. That line is where the supply from one of the tanks goes up into the body of the regulator. High/tank pressure before the reg. does its stuff. (Someone has fiddled with it between 1958 and the invention of Teflon tape.)
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Old 03-31-2007, 01:59 AM   #4
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Hello bevman ,

That fitting you unscrewed needs to be reinstalled back into the regulator.
Hold the larger fitting with a wrench ,then unscrew the smaller fitting with a line wrench or flarenut wrench if you have one ,or a regular wrench ,careful not to (round) the hex .You then can install the newer rubber hoses if you like ,or you can leave those copper lines on and fit up your newer tanks to
the lines .The rubber lines do offer easy on off tank connections though .
The fitting can be changed (previousely dicussed) at the large fittings in your regulator to hook up rubber hoses .The RV store can help you out with the right ones .

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Old 03-31-2007, 08:16 AM   #5
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Thanks, I assumed that that fitting was necessary but what does it do?
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Old 03-31-2007, 08:20 AM   #6
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It looks like the one way valve to keep LP from going from a full tank to an MT tank.
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Originally Posted by bevman
Thanks, I assumed that that fitting was necessary but what does it do?
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Old 03-31-2007, 08:25 AM   #7
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That would make sense, but there is a left/right dial that switches from tank to tank. Maybe it's needed to keep cross bleed from happening as you get the dial in the middle.

Thanks for solving the mystery.

There's no reason that I can't use this original-equipment regulator, is there? (I can't imagine that the laws of physics have changed much.)
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Old 03-31-2007, 08:42 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bevman
That would make sense, but there is a left/right dial that switches from tank to tank. Maybe it's needed to keep cross bleed from happening as you get the dial in the middle.

Thanks for solving the mystery.

There's no reason that I can't use this original-equipment regulator, is there? (I can't imagine that the laws of physics have changed much.)
No reason, BTW, that is an automatic changover valve. It will start using LP from the tank that the arrow on the valve is pointing to. When that tank is MT, it will automatically switch to the other tank, and a little red flag will pop up in the sight glass, letting you know the first tank needs refilling. If it works right, you can unscrew the line to the MT tank without leaking gas, and save having to relight everything. If you put the arrow in the middle, it will defeat the purpose of the auto changover valve, if it allows LP through it at all.
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Old 03-31-2007, 08:55 AM   #9
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Bevman-

Since you are going to already replace the tanks why don't you replace the whole set up. New is sometimes better than old. A new regulator for twin tanks with an auto switch over is only around $40. This way you will will have piece of mind and no problems.
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Old 03-31-2007, 09:12 AM   #10
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New, cheap reg or old, quality reg?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rickandsandi
... A new regulator for twin tanks with an auto switch over is only around $40. This way you will will have piece of mind and no problems.
I have not heard of anyone getting long life out of the $40 regulators. The regulator in Bevman's picture appears to be a Fisher brand regulator, and Fisher is an excellent name in the business. New Fisher regulators are available, but they are pricey.

I would keep the Fisher as opposed to replacing it with a $40 reg.

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Old 03-31-2007, 09:32 AM   #11
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If the Fisher ever starts misbehaving can it be repaired, or do I have to play Taps over it?
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Old 03-31-2007, 09:37 AM   #12
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I seem to remember they can be rebuilt, but that may be old memory cells acting up...
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Old 03-31-2007, 10:16 AM   #13
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Yes, the regs can be rebuilt, and there was a fella that signed up to this forum just to let everyone know he could get Fisher rebuild kits. Do a search, and you can probably find the post.

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Old 03-31-2007, 10:31 AM   #14
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One of the first things we did was rebuild the lines around the tanks/regulator. Found a leak where someone over tightened a fitting and cracked the copper nut. We kept the old regulator. The new tank lines are so much easier to remove/replace. If you use tape on the fittings remember there is a special yellow tape for gas lines.
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