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Old 05-25-2006, 06:49 PM   #15
Frank S
 
1973 27' Overlander
peoria , Illinois
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Hi azflycaster--I replaced by rod 15-years ago with a length of steel threaded rod, which I believe was 1/2". Double nut locked tight on the bottom with a washer, cut to the length you need and you are ready to go. I lightly painted the rod with silver spray paint a couple of times, "and it's still ticking".--Frank S
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Old 05-25-2006, 07:19 PM   #16
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I highly recommend nuts over roll pins.

Some years ago I was headed to Florida passing thru White Plains, New York at morning rush hour. As I was on an on-ramp from one interstate to another, I passed over a concrete road section about 4" higher than the next section. It created quite a jolt. Suddenly I heard a strange scrapping noise. A propane tank, 1/2 full had jumped off the carrier and was draging on the pavement. I knew imediately what that sound was. I managed to force my way to the shoulder. The tank was hanging by the rubber hose. I managed to find a large nail to replace the roll pin and carefully drove out of town. Stopping a few miles down the road, I checked the secirity of the tanks. I realized I may have tightened the hold down wing nut too tight and partially sheared the roll pin. All it took to shear it off was that sudden pavement drop. I looked again at the tank and there was a worn spot where it was dragging in the road. That spot was on the bottom compound curve of the tank. The worn spot was about 1 1/2" high by about 3" long. Must not have been much thickness left in that spot. I realized then what could have happened if that spot blew out in that crowded place. Loose propane and an open spark from one of all those vehicles could have incinerated a bunch of us. If your trailer has roll pins holding it in place, I suggest you accept my advice and replace it with a threaded rod or get it welded at the bottom. Charlie Eglise
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Old 05-25-2006, 07:50 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieE
I looked again at the tank and there was a worn spot where it was dragging in the road. That spot was on the bottom compound curve of the tank. The worn spot was about 1 1/2" high by about 3" long. Must not have been much thickness left in that spot. I realized then what could have happened if that spot blew out in that crowded place. Loose propane and an open spark from one of all those vehicles could have incinerated a bunch of us.
That's a great selling point for aluminum tanks, btw. Not only are they lighter in weight, but they do not produce sparks while being dragged over pavement.
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Old 05-26-2006, 12:06 AM   #18
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Mr. Lew,
Where's that picture of your lock ... My tanks got stollen this past winter and I've been looking for the coolest way to lock 'em up ... ten bucks is cheeper than insurance...and the bad guys get to pick on someone else... where did you find it.. etc... thanks for the info..
Dan
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Old 05-26-2006, 08:57 AM   #19
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Later today

I'll be out at my CCD later today and will get the post up tonight!
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Old 05-26-2006, 09:11 AM   #20
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Fema Locks

Quote:
Originally Posted by gotair
Mr. Lew,
Where's that picture of your lock ... My tanks got stollen this past winter and I've been looking for the coolest way to lock 'em up ... ten bucks is cheeper than insurance...and the bad guys get to pick on someone else... where did you find it.. etc... thanks for the info..
Dan
I'll have to go by the closest FEMA FARM and take a photo of their locks. With all the campers being used as shelter here in South Mississippi, there has been an underground market in stolen tanks. FEMA's solution (and not one I recommend) is a 3/4 inch link chain and a huge pad lock. Works, but looks real bad. BTW - if you know the "right guy" you can pick up a full (or what ever level propane was in the tank when aquired) tanks for cheep - buyer beware.
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Old 05-26-2006, 02:41 PM   #21
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Thumbs up Tank Lock

OK, I give up!

I just spent 30 minutes trying to attach the shots of the lock here, and also in a classified. No Luck!! I can't tell if it's my connection, file size or what. I'll try again from my home machine.

Anyway, a quick description: the lock consists of a bottom plate with a hole in it that fits on the threaded rod first. Then your retaining nut goes on the rod and tightens down on the cross bar. Then you add the lock. It has a hole in it too and you turn the key. Since there is a lot of room inside the lock housing, the lock spins and the retaining nut doesn't! Simplicity!!!

If you have the large wing nut style retainer, you tighten that as usual, then add the bottom lock plate, then add a nylock nut to the rod, then add the lock to it. This way, the lock closes over the nylock nut and you still can't move it with the locking cover over it.

Check back later when I try again!

Thanks!
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Old 05-26-2006, 08:28 PM   #22
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Check The Classifieds

OK,

I finally got the ad up in the classified section. Check it out for a quick, effective solution to your LP tank paranoia!....cheap too!
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Old 06-11-2006, 09:15 PM   #23
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Well I got the new tanks on. I found that the existing rod had another hole that was perfect for the height. I had to dremmel out the piece that grips the tanks since these tanks have a rolled top. I like them!
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Old 06-11-2006, 09:27 PM   #24
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Looks GREAT

Very Nice.....
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Old 06-12-2006, 12:10 AM   #25
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That looks clean. I'll be doing that. Do you send your tanks out for polishing or do it yourself. If you do it yourself, how long does it take per tank? Do you clear coat the tanks to keep from polishing them every few weeks?
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Old 06-12-2006, 12:18 AM   #26
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Now those are some nice looking tanks. Way to go. What are you using or going to use to secure them?

Brad
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Old 06-12-2006, 12:20 AM   #27
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I did them myself. I wet sanded them to get rid of the welding pits, then used diamond brite to shine them up. No clearcoat, let's see how long they last. It took about 2 hours per tank total.
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Old 06-13-2006, 08:01 AM   #28
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1986 25' Sovereign
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Aluminum propane tank clamp

Be careful when you clamp through the hole rather than on the top. The previous owner of my unit did that and severely "chewed" up the hole. I made a top clamp out of a piece of aluminum - but I have access to a milling machine. Threaded rod and nylock nuts completed the repair.

Good luck,

Whit Nash
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