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Old 02-02-2007, 02:51 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by wahoonc
It probably won't help now....but we call those roll pins A split pin is more like a cotter pin.

Aaron
Yeah, when someone said it was made out of spring steel, I figured it was a case of mistaken identification.

Had lots of fun thinking about a split/cotter pin made out of spring steel, though.
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Old 02-02-2007, 03:49 PM   #30
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Roll Pin

I think this is exactly the reason that mine was welded in by one of the two previous PO's. The roll pin in a hard metal rod will stay put but the drilled holes in the mounting collar tend to take the wear and tear. Then you get wear/slop in the collar. That allows the rod to move back and forth causing stress on the drill hole in the rod. The rod or the roll pin eventually fracture and break. Then you have a serious problem with the LP tanks falling off the tongue! I think welding is a good solution to the problem. Yes, It does stop you from replacing the rod easily, but are the new rods even the same size. Seems the ones I looked at on the 2006 trailers were smaller diameter and threaded the entire length. That is why your replacement rod and clamp is a smaller diameter. If you are going to use it instead of the original one DO NOT drill a hole thru it to mount it as it is softer metal and Will fracture easier than the old rod. Instead you can put a lock washer, washer, and nut on the bottom of the threaded rod below the mounting collar and add another lock washer, washer, and nut above the collar to lock the rod in place. Ed
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Old 02-02-2007, 04:14 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
I got the **%$ split pin out- and it looks nothing like a cotter pin, which is what came up when I googled it.
Did you find another hole in the shaft a few inches lower then the one being used? That's what mine had...
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Old 02-02-2007, 04:20 PM   #32
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Thank you guys for all the great input so far!!

Here's where I'm at now:
Went to the local hardware store, had galvanized pipe threaded there before so thought I'd ask about the rod: "Nope, try Napa" (huh?)...So I looked up a local machine shop and they had a 35$ minimum- forget that. So he suggested a store that carries heavy-duty all-thread, not what you find at the hardware store (or RV place). So I went in there and bought a 1/2 " B-7 hardened alloy steel all-thread rod.

I did this for a few reasons... While 'man-handling' the rod extraction, I messed up the top of the old rod enough that putting a new nut on was not working. I could have, like Andy suggested, drilled a new hole and dropped it down, but the regulator mount would then only have the top secured by nuts. The thread on my rod extends about 3.5". That is "IF" I could manage to drill through a round rod without sloppy skipping..etc...

I'm also thinking about putting a 5/8 aluminum tube sleeve over the exposed all-thread, just to beauty it up a bit...

Thoughts before I proceed???
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Old 02-02-2007, 04:21 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster
Did you find another hole in the shaft a few inches lower then the one being used? That's what mine had...
Unfortunately not!! How did you mount your regulator with so little thread? Any pics... anyone?


Oh yeah, and my hardware store sells them as, "tension pins"!
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Old 02-02-2007, 04:25 PM   #34
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Corrosion Machine...

I'd resist urge to put aluminum sleeve over steel rod, where they're in contact and water could collect at bottom of tube. The dissimilar metals and moisture could lead to rust/corrosion at point where rod emerges from trailer frame, and weaken the new rod prematurely...

Might be equally possible to improve appearance with painted plastic/pvc tubing over bare rod, without risk of corrosion.
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Old 02-02-2007, 04:31 PM   #35
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I know everyone's waiting with baited breath (yeah, right) but my plumber can probably throw some more thread on the existing rod (But would it help the funky part at the top?). Sure wish I knew that before I drove all over town!

Maybe I should stop beating a dead horse here... sorry, I'll re-read all the posts and let you know what happens!
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Old 02-02-2007, 04:33 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Condoluminum
I'd resist urge to put aluminum sleeve over steel rod, where they're in contact and water could collect at bottom of tube. The dissimilar metals and moisture could lead to rust/corrosion at point where rod emerges from trailer frame, and weaken the new rod prematurely...

Might be equally possible to improve appearance with painted plastic/pvc tubing over bare rod, without risk of corrosion.
I thought about the corrosion factor, and maybe it's the 'Sanford & Son' in me.. I was thinking about covering the thread with paint/duct tape (?) and putting a neoprene washer at the base...???
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Old 02-02-2007, 04:52 PM   #37
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Great Scott Marty!

Back to the Future... I think if the original rod is salvageable that is what I would go with. If the threads can be re-done where they were damaged and the pin hole in the mounting collar and rod are not too bad I would stay with the original rod. If the pin holes are damaged just weld it in place like mine is... Ed
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Old 02-02-2007, 05:09 PM   #38
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are you gonna have this done in time for Casini! I was looking forward to seeing your table leg. Now want to check out the gaucho doors and this "rod" thing.
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Old 02-02-2007, 05:18 PM   #39
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are you gonna have this done in time for Casini! I was looking forward to seeing your table leg. Now want to check out the gaucho doors and this "rod" thing.
Yeah, that's the plan! 'Tis probably why my brain is spinning!!
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Old 02-06-2007, 10:38 AM   #40
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So, for an update:

My gracious plumber friend, who is working on the trailer this week anyway, will extend the thread on my old rod. Then I can cut off the top damaged area and have room for the regulator.

I took a quick break from readying the trailer for transport to the plumber's, to see how the tanks will look... (all this with a hunk-o'-junk harbor freight polisher and No. 7 car polish--- have to wait $$$ for the real tools n' polish!)
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Old 02-12-2007, 10:24 AM   #41
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Okay one question...

The regulator "holder" has two holes for the rod to insert through. I would put 2 nuts top and bottom, on the top hole, but what about the bottom? In other words, does the thread need to extend to allow nuts both on top and bottom of the reg. holder?
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Old 02-12-2007, 04:44 PM   #42
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Regulator Mount

My original LP bottle hold down has the regulator mount attached (welded in place) to the bottle hold down clamp. It is free sliding (up and down) on the threaded rod and after contacting the bottles the clamp is tightened down (by the large wing nut) until the bottles are secured tight in the holder. I have added a nut to the top of that so as to "lock" the wing nut in place after bottles as secured. Ed
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