|
01-07-2016, 10:12 AM
|
#1
|
2 Rivet Member
1972 27' Overlander
1971 31' Sovereign
Orlando
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 97
|
Moving bathroom from rear to mid
Hey Folks:
Gutted my 27' twin bead rear bath.
Here's the thing: I really like the newer floorpans that have a rear bedroom. Seems much more private and sensible to me.
Shell is off, and frame is ready to haul to the welder.
What are your suggestions / concerns for relocating the bathroom and shower to the wheel wells?
Thanks,
B
|
|
|
01-07-2016, 10:29 AM
|
#2
|
Groo The Wanderer
1964 26' Overlander
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 9
|
I have thought the same thing (along with a ton of others), but the windows seem to be the main issue. I am reinforcing my frame regardless of what floor plan I end up with during my reno, but reinforcing the frame + thinking through weight distribution is more to consider. You don't want to adversely affect the frame or the towing characteristics.
|
|
|
01-07-2016, 10:47 AM
|
#3
|
3 Rivet Member
1963 26' Overlander
Dallas
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 243
|
I'm in the middle of converting my '63 Overlander from a twin rear bath to a full rear bed with a mid bath.
|
|
|
01-07-2016, 11:16 AM
|
#4
|
Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
|
I'm doing a side wet bath on a 71 GT with a rear bed, it's just going to have a window in it, no big deal just have to close the curtain if modest. I already have the vents in and the grey tanks are not as wide to allow for drain plumbing.
|
|
|
01-08-2016, 08:03 AM
|
#5
|
Groo The Wanderer
1964 26' Overlander
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 9
|
My main concern with the window is the constant water at a penetration point in the shell...even with all kinds of sealant. Water tends to find a way to the openings.
|
|
|
01-08-2016, 08:16 AM
|
#6
|
2 Rivet Member
1972 27' Overlander
1971 31' Sovereign
Orlando
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 97
|
Here's my thought on the weight issue: Currently the black tank was all the way aft. @ 30 gals thats about 250 pounds. That seems more stressful on a frame that it being towards the midpoint of the frame, no?
I am thinking and may be wrong that having the black and fresh water near the tandem axles would better balance with distribution, but I have zero practical knowledge of trailer design.
I like the idea of just the one large window too. Ideally, I'll be mostly out west in scenic places, and curtains will provide any privacy we will need but hope fully the windows will be wide open! I just like the bed in the back with the door closed concept.
Construction quality: I'd also heard that A/S were "made by aircraft workers" well if it was, they should have all been fired. Almost no joints were lined up with any precision, rivets entirely missed structural connections, I thought as I disassembled mine "Yep, no wonder they practically went out of business". IT was just really lazy work, and I could tell no one took any pride nor cared about craftmenship.
The one exception I saw was the plumbing, fwiw, that was precise, nice work.
|
|
|
01-09-2016, 05:35 PM
|
#7
|
Rivet Master
1986 25' Sovereign
2008 F350, 6.4L diesel
, Oak Harbor, WA
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 605
|
My 25' has rear twin, center bath. All three tanks are in the center section, my dump valves are in front of the first axle. The frame appears to have wide spans in this area, the floor was springy. I guess you would be moving the grey and black water tanks.
Yes the rear only supports the beds, rear outside entering hatches for storage under the beds, three uppers and two half height closets. The inside fender covers terminate at the bedroom. There are floor to ceiling partition on both sides, the bathroom side sticks in 39" the kitchen side come in 31". Hot water heater is located in the bathroom side under the bed but just behind the fender.
|
|
|
01-09-2016, 06:08 PM
|
#8
|
Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth
, Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 776
|
Having lived with a rear bath, I would not hesitate to move it forward and put the bed in the back. As long as you can engineer the plumbing to accommodate it, then you should be fine. Having the sewage discharge farther forward is another benefit. Go for it.
|
|
|
01-11-2016, 12:41 PM
|
#9
|
2 Rivet Member
1972 27' Overlander
1971 31' Sovereign
Orlando
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 97
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by sgschwend
My 25' has rear twin, center bath. All three tanks are in the center section, my dump valves are in front of the first axle. The frame appears to have wide spans in this area, the floor was springy. I guess you would be moving the grey and black water tanks.
Yes the rear only supports the beds, rear outside entering hatches for storage under the beds, three uppers and two half height closets. The inside fender covers terminate at the bedroom. There are floor to ceiling partition on both sides, the bathroom side sticks in 39" the kitchen side come in 31". Hot water heater is located in the bathroom side under the bed but just behind the fender.
|
Right now my sketches are as follows:
my 27' is only 23' measured on the inside. plan is to have the new rear bedroom extend from back to front terminating at the beginning of the wheel wells, which also coincide with the windows. Bulkhead #1 will be there with the original bathroom sliding door. Floor to ceiling. This makes the bedroom 6' x 7.5'.
I have not decided which side of the trailer to install the bathroom, but for some reason I'm leaning on the driver side - I think that is called the "curb side", in TT parlance...
I'm currently allotting about 6' x 3' for the shower and toilet. This placed them directly over the tandem axels, and I have to figure out the plumbing.
Moving forward on the Curb Side, next will be the fridge.
Directly across from the bathroom will be the kitchen, which will only have a stove top, toaster oven and sink. No oven. Not planning on baking any pies inside...
This does mean I have my original vent stack to move. I don't love the idea, but feel pretty confident I can handle it with no major issues. I saved all the black plastic plumbing in tact and will probably re-use some of the special pieces.
I'm a bit concerned about all the tank connections as I've never done that before, but I'll take it one step at a time and hopefully it will work out okay.
Thanks you guys for helping confirm this makes sense - I really do like it as a floor plan much better!
|
|
|
01-11-2016, 12:43 PM
|
#10
|
2 Rivet Member
1972 27' Overlander
1971 31' Sovereign
Orlando
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 97
|
I took a look at your blog. I also am planning on LED strips. I don't really know the type and quantity to provide sufficient lighting. Any recommendations?
Thanks,
Brek
|
|
|
02-04-2016, 10:49 AM
|
#11
|
2 Rivet Member
1978 31' Sovereign
Botgek
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 31
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuitarmanFL
Right now my sketches are as follows:
my 27' is only 23' measured on the inside. plan is to have the new rear bedroom extend from back to front terminating at the beginning of the wheel wells, which also coincide with the windows. Bulkhead #1 will be there with the original bathroom sliding door. Floor to ceiling. This makes the bedroom 6' x 7.5'.
I have not decided which side of the trailer to install the bathroom, but for some reason I'm leaning on the driver side - I think that is called the "curb side", in TT parlance...
I'm currently allotting about 6' x 3' for the shower and toilet. This placed them directly over the tandem axels, and I have to figure out the plumbing.
Moving forward on the Curb Side, next will be the fridge.
Directly across from the bathroom will be the kitchen, which will only have a stove top, toaster oven and sink. No oven. Not planning on baking any pies inside...
This does mean I have my original vent stack to move. I don't love the idea, but feel pretty confident I can handle it with no major issues. I saved all the black plastic plumbing in tact and will probably re-use some of the special pieces.
I'm a bit concerned about all the tank connections as I've never done that before, but I'll take it one step at a time and hopefully it will work out okay.
Thanks you guys for helping confirm this makes sense - I really do like it as a floor plan much better!
|
I to am planning on moving the bathroom to the side. I have 78' 31' that I just finished gutting. I'm interested in how the process went? Any suggestions?
Thanks
|
|
|
06-22-2017, 07:33 PM
|
#12
|
4 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Calgary
, Alberta
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 297
|
I'm planning out right now on my 25 foot '72 Tradewind . Anyone have any thing to add to the mid bathroom conversion?
Any floor plans around of bathroom with sink, shower, toilet (composting?) arrange over a wheel well? Links or diagrams would be great.
Thanks
|
|
|
06-22-2017, 07:34 PM
|
#13
|
4 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Calgary
, Alberta
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 297
|
GuitarmanFL what did you end up doing??
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|