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Old 01-23-2007, 12:20 PM   #1
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Profile:  1973 Argosy 26
Norristown , Pennsylvania
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Lpg regulations.

Can someone please help me with RIVA regulations for LPG manifold pipes an appliance connectors. I am considering using a 3/8" Stainless steel schedule 40 threaded pipe with SS elbows and tee's at the low pressure side. It that permissible, Thanks "Boatdoc"

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Old 01-23-2007, 12:50 PM   #2
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Profile:  1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
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I to would like to know the regs on this, as I plan on using #6 321 stainless tubing but with all AN or MS fittings, more durable then copper with more choices on fitting. Does anyone aslo know if stainless braided teflon flex hose is possible.

Kip
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:57 PM   #3
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Profile:  1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville , Alabama
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I know you want code talkers, but

Quote:
Originally Posted by boatdoc
... I am considering using a 3/8" Stainless steel ...
Don't know the exact code, but I'm with markdoane in saying "yes" to the use of stainless for the gas's conveyance.

The RV code, though, does not specify pipe diameter as each gas installation is unique. Look at the "Uniform Plumbing Code". Pipe size requirements are based on end load gas use & length of supply pipe. You need to size your stainless pipe or tubing accordingly.

The best way would be to match your Argosy's original copper pipe diameters.

Tom
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Old 03-25-2007, 10:39 AM   #4
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Profile:  Kyle , Texas
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LPG Regs and more

Have we gotten the answer to this question yet? I would also like to know if the Marshal 250 Auto switching LPG regulator (which seems to be an industry standard) will flow enough fuel to power my 38,000 BTU tankless water heater if anyone knows the answer to that.

Thanks
Mike
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Old 03-25-2007, 10:46 AM   #5
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Mike,

Last time I looked, they were good for 210,000 Btu on the primary, and 130,000 Btu on the reserve cylinder.
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Old 03-25-2007, 12:42 PM   #6
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As I recall from reading up on pipe the issue is whether the pipe will deteriorate do to chemical interaction with the gas and stuff in it, over a period of decades.
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Old 03-25-2007, 01:54 PM   #7
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Obsolete issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by Over59
As I recall from reading up on pipe the issue is whether the pipe will deteriorate do to chemical interaction with the gas and stuff in it, over a period of decades.
In days of old, the "rotten eggs" odorant added to natural & liquid propane gases reacted with copper to form a black scale of sorts that could, and did, flake off and clog jets. To combat the issue, tin-lined, copper plumbing was made available to the gas industry for a period of time.

The odorant was eventually changed to a non-reactive substance, and the tin-lined plumbing is no longer commonly available. Standard copper pipe will work fine. Stainless will also work fine, and look cool.

As of today (we just returned from a four-day camping trip), the four-decade old copper gas plumbing in my Overlander still performs its function well.

Tom
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Old 03-25-2007, 02:22 PM   #8
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Profile:  1973 27' Overlander
1972 29' Ambassador
Twin Mosquitos , Minnesota
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The only issue with copper at this time is single or dual flare fittings; adds a few required tools to produce the dual flare in the tubing but as with most things the single flare is still available and capable of working so no rush to retrofit, but something to think about if one is starting from scratch on a LP rehab... Also, if you want to armor the copper against strikes, common garden hose works well as outer sheathing...
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Old 03-26-2007, 12:48 PM   #9
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Profile:  Burlington , Ontario
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LPG Gas lines.

I have a 1974 22Ft Argosy and bought it new.
The gas piping is copper. a few years ago I noticed that I was using gas at a larger rate than I thought was normal. I had hardly ever had to fill a tank. Now it was emptying every 2 1/2 weeks. I for a couple of years did the soap and water testing and found nothing.

I suspected the regulator and bought a new one, and then another new one. No change in the use of fuel, and the stove flame was not as high.
This last December I was about to light the water heater and noticed a pilot like flame coming from the place where the pipe came up through the floor of the tank and then to the control. There should be no flame there.
I disconnected the fitting and pulled on the pipe and it came off on my hand.
I could see that there had been a crack in the pipe
This had hidden the break in the rubber hose that was to protect the pipe.

I bought new fittings ,on/off valve and a new compression tools (the most expensive) AND APPLIED ALL IN A NEW PROTECTIVE SLEEVE.
I now get 16 weeks of use from one 30 lb tank.

I anyone need a new dual regulator I have one for sale at $150.IN the box.

You just don't know do you EH!

Rae Baker Key West Fl.
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