LP Regulator

[markjoandall]

The regulator went out on our 2001 last year. My son and I went on a trout fishing trip to north carolina and we stopped at a truck stop in PA on the way. I turned on the furnace and it wouldn't light. The fridge wouldn't light. The stove worked but only one burner at a time. Man that was a cold night. I hardly slept at all.

When we got to NC I had the camp ground call a traveling rv repair man. He came with his measurind device and we had 7 lbs. of pressure at the stove burner and I think he said it should be 11 lbs. He put on a new regulator and the pressure was right where it was supposed to be. And low and behold the furnace lit.

My advice, find someone who knows what they are doing with the proper testing equipment. Pay the money and have it done right. I think we paid $175 for the new regulator. Cheap for the right education.

[rtaylor537]

Our 2001 Excella (30ft) had the same problem with the LP regulator. Neither the stove, furnace nor refrigerator would stay lit on LP. I thought it was the furnace but the factory repair department at Jackson Center checked the regulator and discovered that it was defective. Seems this might have been a vendor problem if it occured with other units.

[jimmickle]

There is no question that it was a vendor problem at Marshall Brass. There also has been some problems with oil getting into the regulators and causing failures that we didn't have before we went to the OPD valves. I don't know the cause, but I suspect that it has something to do with the restriction in the valve causing the pump on the supply tank to work harder when filling the tank. I believe that this is the reason that Airstream is now mounting the regulator above the tank outlet so that the oil can drain back into the tank rather than into the regulator. If anyone has better information, I am interested.

[dinoburb]

Hi Gang,

I have the original 966 series regulator that is still available from Inland RV. Fisher has discontinued that regulator series last year and thay do not provide a rebuild service or kits.

They recommended the Fisher R96221 regulator. That is an automatic switchover regulator with Fisher quality. Cost could be as high as the 966 series or much less depending on source of product. It has an advantage over the 966 series because of its 400K BTU capacity. That is about a 100% increase. (214K btu/hr vs. 400K btu/hr)

I have purchased the R96221 regulator and it performs perfectly. I hope to get 10/15 years of trouble free service from it.

Hope this helps.

Take care

[ronpovey]

Rugulator on our 2002 Classic failed this morning, don't know how long it had been leaking! Phoned Marshall Gas Customer Service at 1-800-877-2495 and they said 1 year warrenty but they would replace it or reimburse me on submission of an orginal receipt. Need replacement ASAP as we are living in the trailer so will buy new one this afternoon. Marshall was quite helpfull on the phone.

[Safari Tim]

A few years back when I got my trailer, I took my original 30+ year old regulator, hoses and tanks down to the gas guy.

I had the OPD's put on and was going to replace the regulator and hoses. He asked, if the regulator was bad and I said I did not think so.

He said it was a very expensive regulator and tested for me. It tested fine so I kept it.

Now I am glad I did. Sounds like these new regulators are not too good.

I also kept the original copper pipes from the regulator to the tanks. Even though they are a little harder to take the tanks off and on, they have lasted this long so far. I doubt the rubber ones would fair as well.

[05ModPod]

Originally Posted by Safari Tim

I also kept the original copper pipes from the regulator to the tanks. Even though they are a little harder to take the tanks off and on, they have lasted this long so far. I doubt the rubber ones would fair as well.

We just replaced our very old regulator 35years - the LP had such a bad surge in it - we thought it would be more sensible to buy new - I think the new one is a Marshall - dual cycle - auto change-over.

But we had a nice surprise - our Pigtails - copper pipes and silver flex pipe from the reg to the main copper line combo (that the technician said looked like it was a prop out of the movie Aliens) - are now illegal.

We have new LP Regulations for all RV's just come into place (Not just the OPD valves. Have not seen the actual document but bassically if you have an old system and you "break the seal" as they define it - such as remove the regulator, or an appliance - in order for an RV technician to repair it - the unit has to be brought to "code" and then certified or tagged so you could be looking at not only the repair bill but the upgrade bill as well.

Peter has replaced all the copper lines(LP) from the main connection from the Regulator - we are going to test the Furnace again to see if she lights this time - pilot worked but second burner did not come on that is when the regulator was suspect - so the best time to see the fluctuation we found was at night with all the cooktop burners on - that is if you don't have a proper tester.

We will then hook everything up (except the water heater - has it's own shut off) and we will get the technician to tag our system for us for insurance purposes.

Not sure what your laws are in the states - and I am not sure if your rigs have to meet our Regulations while travelling here in CND - something to look into though.

[DPeakMD]

I replaced the Fisher brand regulator on my '72 with the exact model 966/150 Fisher made at the time (2002) because it had a slow leak at the vent. It would also leak 'briskly' from the same place if you removed the empty gas bottle and left the gas from the remaining bottle on! But, not bad for 30 years of service! The new unit was only around $130 or so from our local propane dealer. I like the fact that on both my '72 and on the '78, the Fisher fits exactly into the holes on the aluminum mounting bracket.

Our '72 had copper pigtails from the old regulator to the gas bottles. I replaced these with rubber pigtails and updated the bottles to the new QCC/OPD style at the same time. Our '72 also had an appliance type metal flex pipe connecting it to the 5/8" copper main distribution pipe. I replaced that with a rubber hose.

Our '78 came with the Marshall regulator. It looks like a cheaply made part. The Fisher is one that looks like it's made the same way they did back in '72, only with a better paint job! I'm replacing the Marshall ASAP.

GT6921, can you share the details of the "code changes" which have taken effect in CND? I'm interested, did they no longer want copper, only rubber for the supply line? Do they want rubber or copper to the appliances? Are flare fittings acceptable?

-Dallas