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Old 12-09-2002, 11:19 AM   #15
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regulator pop-up

Just bought a replacement regulator on the advice of the vendor I bought compliant tanks from . Their opinion was that the regulator should be replaced after fifteen years.

I was told that the arrow points to the tank being used and that the pop-up shows red when that tank is empty. The regulator will automatically switch over to the other tank to continue operation uninterrupted. Switching the arrow to the full tank allows you to remove the empty and refill it, again without interruption of service. The pop-up should show green again at that point.

Just passing along what I was told. You should verify the accuracy yourself with your local vendor specific to your model regulator.

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Old 12-09-2002, 12:22 PM   #16
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bad marshall regulator

For whatever it is worth, I had Bill Thomas Airstream in St. Louis, Mo. replace the original regulator on my 99 Excella with a new Marshall regulator. This new Marshall failed in just five months. LP was leaking from around the selector valve. As I could not find another brand regulator I replaced the new/bad Marshall with another of the same brand.

Was going to try and get the faulty Marshall replaced, but as the cost was only $45 at Bill Thomas ($39 for the replacement) I didn't feel that it was worth getting my blood pressure up.

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Old 12-26-2002, 05:14 PM   #17
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What are the Options

I just replaced my old marshall requlator with a new 254-00 because my old one would not transfer. Threw the old one away. The inputs here said I made a mistake. I also sent a message to the Marshall e-mail address asking their response to CW evalutations and inputs here, but have gotten no respose. I'll attribute the lack of response to the holiday season rather that lack of interest. Has anyone found a suitable replacement other than the $165 unit? Interesting that I've never had a problem with any of my propane system on multi RV units in the past. In the aerospace community we would have been on this like flees on a dog. Think of the liability implications! Thanks.
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Old 12-26-2002, 06:29 PM   #18
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Thats interesting, Charlie Burke at American Way suggested the 254 because that is what they use now. Seems to work great.
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Old 12-26-2002, 06:50 PM   #19
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Well, I hope so. Repaced it without knowing that there was a problem and took it to storage. I checked the fittings as I had no reason to suspect the unit at that time. We'll see how it works after Xmas is over and I get back to "putting it on the road."
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Old 04-18-2004, 07:16 AM   #20
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I had the marshall regulator on my 2002 Safari (built in November of 2001) fail on the way to WBCCI international in June of 2002. Since it was Friday afternoon, and we were in a small town in Minnesota, I was lucky to get a replacement so that we would have heat and refrigeration for the next few days. Ours was not the only failure on the caravan. Out of 20 units, we had, as I remember it, some seven or eight failures. One member of the caravan had a failure at the rally in Michigan before the caravan left, and replaced it with a new unit. It failed on the way, and had to be replaced again. Mine was returned to Airstream who reinbursed the cost of the replacement as it was still under warrenty. So far the replacement is working OK. I was able to buy a used spare from a propane dealer near the rally site. It is the old Marshall that is put together with screws and has a brass changover warning gage. Another customer had it replaced with a new one as a precaution before a trip to Alaska in a pick-up camper.
With the failure rate of the latest from Marshall, I think that he made a mistake.
BTW, the recent Marshall regulators that I have seen were made in Mexico, a country not noted for understanding quaility control. Lional Trains was almost put out of business when they move production to Mexico to save money. The product that they got was JUNK!! They moved production back to the US and saved the company.
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Old 04-18-2004, 06:28 PM   #21
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The regulator went out on our 2001 last year. My son and I went on a trout fishing trip to north carolina and we stopped at a truck stop in PA on the way. I turned on the furnace and it wouldn't light. The fridge wouldn't light. The stove worked but only one burner at a time. Man that was a cold night. I hardly slept at all.

When we got to NC I had the camp ground call a traveling rv repair man. He came with his measurind device and we had 7 lbs. of pressure at the stove burner and I think he said it should be 11 lbs. He put on a new regulator and the pressure was right where it was supposed to be. And low and behold the furnace lit.

My advice, find someone who knows what they are doing with the proper testing equipment. Pay the money and have it done right. I think we paid $175 for the new regulator. Cheap for the right education.
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Old 04-18-2004, 07:16 PM   #22
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I had the same problem

Our 2001 Excella (30ft) had the same problem with the LP regulator. Neither the stove, furnace nor refrigerator would stay lit on LP. I thought it was the furnace but the factory repair department at Jackson Center checked the regulator and discovered that it was defective. Seems this might have been a vendor problem if it occured with other units.
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Old 04-19-2004, 06:46 AM   #23
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There is no question that it was a vendor problem at Marshall Brass. There also has been some problems with oil getting into the regulators and causing failures that we didn't have before we went to the OPD valves. I don't know the cause, but I suspect that it has something to do with the restriction in the valve causing the pump on the supply tank to work harder when filling the tank. I believe that this is the reason that Airstream is now mounting the regulator above the tank outlet so that the oil can drain back into the tank rather than into the regulator. If anyone has better information, I am interested.
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Old 04-22-2004, 04:16 PM   #24
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Replacement for the 966 series of Fisher Regulators

Hi Gang,

I have the original 966 series regulator that is still available from Inland RV. Fisher has discontinued that regulator series last year and thay do not provide a rebuild service or kits.

They recommended the Fisher R96221 regulator. That is an automatic switchover regulator with Fisher quality. Cost could be as high as the 966 series or much less depending on source of product. It has an advantage over the 966 series because of its 400K BTU capacity. That is about a 100% increase. (214K btu/hr vs. 400K btu/hr)

I have purchased the R96221 regulator and it performs perfectly. I hope to get 10/15 years of trouble free service from it.

Hope this helps.

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Old 05-14-2004, 12:41 PM   #25
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Rugulator on our 2002 Classic failed this morning, don't know how long it had been leaking! Phoned Marshall Gas Customer Service at 1-800-877-2495 and they said 1 year warrenty but they would replace it or reimburse me on submission of an orginal receipt. Need replacement ASAP as we are living in the trailer so will buy new one this afternoon. Marshall was quite helpfull on the phone.
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Old 05-14-2004, 01:35 PM   #26
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A few years back when I got my trailer, I took my original 30+ year old regulator, hoses and tanks down to the gas guy.

I had the OPD's put on and was going to replace the regulator and hoses. He asked, if the regulator was bad and I said I did not think so.

He said it was a very expensive regulator and tested for me. It tested fine so I kept it.

Now I am glad I did. Sounds like these new regulators are not too good.

I also kept the original copper pipes from the regulator to the tanks. Even though they are a little harder to take the tanks off and on, they have lasted this long so far. I doubt the rubber ones would fair as well.
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Old 05-14-2004, 08:02 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Safari Tim
I also kept the original copper pipes from the regulator to the tanks. Even though they are a little harder to take the tanks off and on, they have lasted this long so far. I doubt the rubber ones would fair as well.
We just replaced our very old regulator 35years - the LP had such a bad surge in it - we thought it would be more sensible to buy new - I think the new one is a Marshall - dual cycle - auto change-over.

But we had a nice surprise - our Pigtails - copper pipes and silver flex pipe from the reg to the main copper line combo (that the technician said looked like it was a prop out of the movie Aliens) - are now illegal.

We have new LP Regulations for all RV's just come into place (Not just the OPD valves. Have not seen the actual document but bassically if you have an old system and you "break the seal" as they define it - such as remove the regulator, or an appliance - in order for an RV technician to repair it - the unit has to be brought to "code" and then certified or tagged so you could be looking at not only the repair bill but the upgrade bill as well.

Peter has replaced all the copper lines(LP) from the main connection from the Regulator - we are going to test the Furnace again to see if she lights this time - pilot worked but second burner did not come on that is when the regulator was suspect - so the best time to see the fluctuation we found was at night with all the cooktop burners on - that is if you don't have a proper tester.

We will then hook everything up (except the water heater - has it's own shut off) and we will get the technician to tag our system for us for insurance purposes.

Not sure what your laws are in the states - and I am not sure if your rigs have to meet our Regulations while travelling here in CND - something to look into though.
Everything will be alright in the end. If it is not alright now, then it is not the end.
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Old 05-15-2004, 01:22 AM   #28
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I replaced the Fisher brand regulator on my '72 with the exact model 966/150 Fisher made at the time (2002) because it had a slow leak at the vent. It would also leak 'briskly' from the same place if you removed the empty gas bottle and left the gas from the remaining bottle on! But, not bad for 30 years of service! The new unit was only around $130 or so from our local propane dealer. I like the fact that on both my '72 and on the '78, the Fisher fits exactly into the holes on the aluminum mounting bracket.

Our '72 had copper pigtails from the old regulator to the gas bottles. I replaced these with rubber pigtails and updated the bottles to the new QCC/OPD style at the same time. Our '72 also had an appliance type metal flex pipe connecting it to the 5/8" copper main distribution pipe. I replaced that with a rubber hose.

Our '78 came with the Marshall regulator. It looks like a cheaply made part. The Fisher is one that looks like it's made the same way they did back in '72, only with a better paint job! I'm replacing the Marshall ASAP.

GT6921, can you share the details of the "code changes" which have taken effect in CND? I'm interested, did they no longer want copper, only rubber for the supply line? Do they want rubber or copper to the appliances? Are flare fittings acceptable?


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