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Old 11-22-2014, 01:02 AM   #15
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Double flare seems overkill to me, and I can state with certainty that the lines I took out were single flair 45 degree.

I wont use a hose or a flexible metal line in the trailer, and why would I? It is easier just to plumb it in with copper tube.


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Old 11-22-2014, 07:26 PM   #16
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If there were a fire inside, the rubber hose would melt causing a disaster, that is why no rubber gas lines are inside the rv. Also I have never seen or used a double flare on a copper gas line...
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Old 11-22-2014, 07:45 PM   #17
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Time for me to eat crow— please pass the ketchup.

NFPA 1192 (which is the RVIA recreational vehicle standard) says this:
Quote:
5.3.6.1 Propane tubing joints shall be permitted to be made with a single or double flare of 45 degrees conforming to SAE J533, as recommended by the tubing manufacturer, or by means of listed vibration-resistant fittings, or the joints shall be brazed with a material having a melting point exceeding 1000°F (538°C).
"Single or double flare," it says. Doesn't have to be double flare, despite what Lewster said in that other thread on propane connections. It does pay to go straight to the source sometimes. Double-flare joints are stronger, which is a good thing in a moving trailer, but you can go with single flare if you like, and still be in compliance.

Apologies for the confusion.
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Old 11-22-2014, 08:52 PM   #18
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Hi Pipefitter here,
The copper flex line are now outlawed. They break.
The yellow lines you see are metric stainless steel with metric to standard adapters on them.
Double flare are for brake lines.
Single flare is all you need.
Aircraft and avaition flares are a different angle.

So all you have to do is cut the copper line. Leave it a little long and put a flare on it. I'm sure there has to be a video on flaring a tube.
Put the flare nut on the tube before flaring it.
Project the tube about 1/8 past the vice block. Put the cone part on and turn the handle till it stops. Then remove it. If you mess it up the cone will be to big and the nut won't go over it, if its to small it won't be leak tight. Just cut if off and redo it. A tube cutter with the groves in the wheels is the one for cutting the cone off real close. but you can use a hack saw or just the hack saw blade if it tight.
Anyway I hope I help you.
regards.
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Old 11-22-2014, 10:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Protagonist View Post
Time for me to eat crow— please pass the ketchup.

NFPA 1192 (which is the RVIA recreational vehicle standard) says this:
"Single or double flare," it says. Doesn't have to be double flare, despite what Lewster said in that other thread on propane connections. It does pay to go straight to the source sometimes. Double-flare joints are stronger, which is a good thing in a moving trailer, but you can go with single flare if you like, and still be in compliance.

Apologies for the confusion.
Just goes to show you when you take the word of your LP instructor at RVIA class. He was pretty adamant about the double flare business, and since that time.....that's the ONLY flare type that I will use on any LP work. Doubles also provide a much softer, more conformable double layer cushion for the nut to seal against the flare. Makes sense to me!

You guys can use whatever.....it's my a$$ on the line any time I touch an LP line, so I err on the safe side.....ALWAYS!
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:25 AM   #20
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I don't guess it will hurt anything Lewster. As long as it seals and is safe, that is what matters.

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Old 11-25-2014, 07:32 AM   #21
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LP Flex Line Inside the Airstream?

I was taught that the double flares were for high pressure apps. Seeing as the propane line has less than a 2 pound pressure a double seems like overkill. But error on the safe side. If you have the double flare part of the tool use it, it won't hurt. Flaring a double require an extra step.

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Old 11-25-2014, 07:33 AM   #22
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:56 AM   #23
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For what it is worth, I plan to put about 20psi on my lines to check for leaks. That will show up smaller leaks using soap compared to .5 psi of propane.

20 psi of air that is.


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Old 11-28-2014, 05:38 PM   #24
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Well I tried to use the original copper flexible gas line for my new refrigerator installation and discovered a crack where it go crimped.

So now that we know I need to use flexible copper, what size copper line do I need, what are the sizes of the female couplings and most importantly, where do I buy them cut and built to size?

Thank you.
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Old 11-28-2014, 07:27 PM   #25
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LP Flex Line Inside the Airstream?

Well you won't find a copper flex line, they are not made. You can purchase male pipe x flare adapters and use regular tube. Home Depot sells flex lines they come with the special metric adapters. Although the only size you may find is 1/2 or 3/4. I think what you want is 3/8. 3/8 flex line will be very hard to come by. I though they used it on fire place logs and lamp post. So you may want to try a fireplace shop or a place that sells propane lamp posts
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Old 11-28-2014, 07:30 PM   #26
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My Fridge uses 3/8" copper.

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Old 11-28-2014, 11:01 PM   #27
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LP Flex Line Inside the Airstream?

Go for a straight connection with flared 3/8" tube, ditch the flex line. It is just trouble.

You can leave extra length on the 3/8 tube to allow for a measure of flexibility.


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Old 12-06-2014, 09:47 PM   #28
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Flex line or soft copper?

The copper tubing that comes in a coil (10 or 20 feet usually) from a hardware store is smooth, is soft enough to bend, and I think that is what one might, incorrectly, call "flex" tubing. The flex tubing is not smooth, it has coiled ridges and pre-attached end fittings, and is not good for trailer propane (as mentioned). The soft copper line can bend, but be careful not to kink it! It should be slowly bent. 3/8 inch tubing will usually bend to a radius of, oh let's say a gallon tea jug, before one must be VERY careful not to kink it.
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