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Judypetrick · 09-09-2013, 08:22 PM

Have two tanks, and find it hard to read is tiny ring is red (empty) or green (OK).
How do I see if tank switches to second one. Really can't see a colored ring??

SteveSueMac · 09-09-2013, 08:32 PM

Hi. Not sure what kind of trailer you have. On mine, there is a switch pointing to one of the two tanks which is the source of the propane. In between the 2 tanks (toward the top of them where the hoses connect in the center) is a see-through cylinder with a ring laying horizontally on the bottom. It is clearly green. It clearly turns red when empty bWhen that tank runs out, propane is drawn from the second tank HOWEVER, I need to flip the switch to select the full tank so I can disconnect the empty tank and keep that process going.

Do you see that see-through cylinder I'm talking about?

Good luck!

JandD · 09-09-2013, 10:26 PM

So far I am running off one tank. Keeping the second off and in reserve. Like you I did not see how the gauge worked. Plus being red green color blind I can guess wrong. So when and if I run out I have a 50% back up.

Silver Goose · 09-09-2013, 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Judypetrick

Have two tanks, and find it hard to read is tiny ring is red (empty) or green (OK).
How do I see if tank switches to second one. Really can't see a colored ring??

There is more than one design of automatic switchover regulator. The one on my ’08 model is as previously described. The lever points to the "service" tank, the other can be referred to as the "reserve" tank. The indicator shows green as long as the service tank is supplying the gas. When it turns red, it means the service tank is empty and the reserve tank is supplying gas. Flipping the lever to the reserve tank now makes it the service tank and the indicator returns to green. When convenient, close the valve on the empty tank and it can be removed, refilled, and then put back to assume the role now as the reserve tank. Some find that the tank cover blocks their view of the indicator as it is best seen straight on from the side. For the automatic switchover to occur, both tanks need to be have their valves open. One would think a black/white indicator would be a better design to accommodate those who can't easily discern between red/green.

I believe all modern Airstream trailers come equipped with the auto switchover regulator. Yours may not have the colored ring, but would have some sort of indicator. If you aren't the original owner, it may be that the PO had replaced it with a different model or even a manual switchover that wouldn't have the indicator. You may need to take the tank cover off to get a better look at what you have and if you can post a picture here we can have a better idea also.

The sketch comes from the manual for mine. The indicator is in the small gap at the base of the black cap atop the regulator.

Judypetrick · 09-10-2013, 01:03 AM

Thanks everyone! I have the indicator that is in the posted diagram. Vey hard to see color change on the tiny ring at the bottom of the cap. (which says "do not remove") really need to take off cover to see it. Also, right now it seems like it is showing both colors, red at the bottom and still green above it. What does that mean?

SteveSueMac · 09-10-2013, 03:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Judypetrick

...Also, right now it seems like it is showing both colors, red at the bottom and still green above it. What does that mean?

I usually get that when both tanks are closed and the trailer has been sitting for a few days. Then as soon as I open the tanks, I get green only.

Silver Goose · 09-10-2013, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Judypetrick

... right now it seems like it is showing both colors, red at the bottom and still green above it. What does that mean?

The indicator is a plunger with the red and green stripes painted on it. When the pressure from the service tank drops to the point that triggers the switchover, the mechanism inside the regulator causes the plunger to move down displaying the red in the top half of the window. As I recall, if the reserve tank is providing adequate pressure at that point the bottom half of the indicator will still show green. Any red visible means the service tank is empty or its valve is closed. With both valves open, when you flip the lever to point to the full tank, the indictator should immediately return to green. I believe if both tanks are empty or both valves closed and the pressure has bled down, then the indicator will be 100% red.

As previously noted, when viewing at an angle from above, the red may not be so obvious. If you have a compact or a dental mirror handy, you may be able to get a clearer view of the thing.

AirsDream · 09-10-2013, 10:57 AM

That's what I've been doing for many years; I just keep one tank valve open with the second, full tank in reserve and shut off. If / when the tank I'm using runs out, then I go outside and change the valves and ASAP get the empty tank filled and I re-install it, with its valve shut off. I even made up a little tag with a carabiner on it that I leave attached to the "reserve" tank so that when I go get the trailer out of storage for a trip, I know to turn on the valve for the other, or "active" tank ... 'cause I can't remember and am too lazy to record which tank is in use.

Two big benefits: 1.) When it's time to re-fill, the tank I'm taking in to re-fill is completely empty, so I'm only refilling totally empty tanks. Thus, for those places which won't sell propane by the pound or gallon but only by the tankful, I can buy a complete tankful, and I don't get ripped off; and 2.) I always KNOW I have a full tank in reserve. I've talked to a lot of folks who didn't pay enough attention to the little red/green indicator (many are very hard to see, down inside the cover for the tanks) and ran BOTH tanks totally out when they were way out there in East Tumbleweed.

And what's the worst case scenario? Your "active" tank runs out and you need to change the valves at a time when you don't happen to want to go out and change over. Once in all the years I've been doing it this way it happened when I was cooking supper and it was raining. Got a few drops of water on me. Didn't melt.

I suspect that if you're diligent and check the little indicator regularly, you'll never have a problem. But I've got better things to do, and basically, I'm too lazy to check it all the time!

**DKB_SATX** · 09-10-2013, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AirsDream

~~
And what's the worst case scenario? Your "active" tank runs out and you need to change the valves at a time when you don't happen to want to go out and change over. Once in all the years I've been doing it this way it happened when I was cooking supper and it was raining. Got a few drops of water on me. Didn't melt.

I suspect that if you're diligent and check the little indicator regularly, you'll never have a problem. But I've got better things to do, and basically, I'm too lazy to check it all the time!

I'd describe the worst-case scenario more like this: You're boondocking someplace warm and enjoying the sights and activities away from your campsite. Shortly after you leave for the day, the only tank with an open valve runs dry and the flame in your refrigerator promptly goes out, allowing the temperature in the fridge to rise all day and potentially get warm enough that it might take 12-24 hours to get it down to food-safe temperatures by the time you return, figure out the problem, open the valve on your full reserve tank and eventually get the fridge lit again.

Unless you're camping in cold temperatures with lots of furnace usage, you really only have to check the switchover indicator every couple of days and should still catch it with plenty of time to refill the empty cylinder.

I just leave the switchover valve pointed to the same "service tank" until it runs dry, so I don't have to remember which one I used last trip, the handle is already pointing to it. When the indicator goes half-red, I know the one the valve has been pointing to for months is empty and that's the one that needs a complete fill. I switch the pointer over to the other tank, and leave it pointed there until that one runs dry, then repeat the process.

Lumatic · 09-10-2013, 11:32 AM

Howdy neighbor
There are a few tricks that could also help in figuring how empty your tank is:
1 The simplist is if you spray some hot water over the tank you should see a line showing the LP level (never did have to good luck with this one)
2.If you are muscically inclined you bang on the tanks and compare sounds. You can kinda get an idea how full or empty they are sorta.
3. You can add on a guage to the tank valve which will tell you how much gas there is left sorta
4. If you have steel tanks there is a magnetic guage which will kinda tells you how much gas you have.

perryg114 · 09-10-2013, 11:50 AM

The best way is to have a real float gage in the tank. With the advent of the OPD valve you have to have a tank with two bungs in it. One for the valve and one from the float indicator. I don't like relying on the switchover regulator. It is one of those things that you don't know if it is going to work or not. I tried to get mine to switch by cutting one tank off and it did not seem to do anything. You can also weigh the tank or pick it up and shake it. They make a gage that goes on the valve but it only tells you that the pressure is getting low as a result of the fluid level getting close to the bottom. I am not sure how reliable these gages are and they probably require flow to work. If you are drawing alot of gas from the cylinder it will be cold on the bottom.

Perry

polarlyse · 09-11-2013, 02:03 PM

I have twin aluminum 40#er's on the trailer that the previous owner had added. He gave me the original alum. 30's when we bought it. The 40's do not have the gauge connection so need to be manually checked. The 30's have both a dial gauge on them as well as the wire connection to be monitored from the inside panel. Right now I'm using one of the
30's to fuel my gas grill. The other is empty. I keep the ones on the trailer both open
and let them switch over as needed. Monitor it periodically and re-fill when I can. Has worked well for us so far.

3campers · 09-11-2013, 02:42 PM

I'm old school and typically two full tanks will suffice for the season. I pick one to run off of and if and when it runs out I just switch over to the other tank. I've never run into problems with method...

Lumatic · 09-11-2013, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by polarlyse

The 40's do not have the gauge connection so need to be manually checked.

There is an aftermarket gauge that goes in between the bottle valve and the hose connection. Probably not that accurate but will give you a general idea of when you are low. CW has them.

Wingeezer · 09-11-2013, 03:00 PM

I too have great difficulty seeing anything meaningful in teh sight glass - but them I am somewhat red/green colour blind! I never realized that for many years until one day I took a medical and they showed me a book of those mosaic multicoloured circle patterns with numbers in them. In many, I could see no numbers at all!

Our trailer has 30# alum bottles with gauges and also with electrical connection for remote connection and we can check levels inside the trailer.

I used to rely on the gauge, then go flip the lever (even though I couldn't tell what the sight glass was trying to tell me!) then get the empty filled.

Until one day the guy filling it told me my gauges must not be accurate as the bottle was not empty but he had to charge me for a fill anyway!

So now, I generally just keep one bottle open so I can know for sure when it is empty (ie when the stove goes out!).

At times when I really don't want to run out of gas, such as when we are traveling with the fridge on and I know the bottle is getting low, I will turn on both bottles, then go back to one bottle again when we are set up at a campsite and running the fridge on 110.

Brian.

Lumatic · 09-11-2013, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wingeezer

I used to rely on the gauge, then go flip the lever (even though I couldn't tell what the sight glass was trying to tell me!) then get the empty filled.

Until one day the guy filling it told me my gauges must not be accurate as the bottle was not empty but he had to charge me for a fill anyway!

That's a new one on me. I always have been charged based on the weight difference or the gallons pumped. Sounds like a rip off. The way I see it, it's the same as getting a fill up on a half full car gas tank and be charged for a full tank.

eubank · 09-11-2013, 04:26 PM

If you carry a scale, the most accurate is simply to weigh the cylinder. The collar on your cylinder carries a figure after the abbreviation "TW," standing for tare weight. That's the weight of the cylinder with it is complete devoid of propane. If you have so-called seven-gallon cylinders, then the full point is TW + 30. (This is so because these cylinders have a capacity of 30 pounds of propane, which is also marked cryptically on the collar after the abbreviation "WC," for water capacity. Your propane capacity in pounds is WC X .42 ...)

Fillers who follow the guidelines from the National Fire Protection Assocation (Publication 58) in the USA can't rely on gauges on cylinders because they're too inaccurate for safety.

Lynn

TBRich · 09-11-2013, 04:59 PM

Here's a pic that might help some who are having trouble identifying the parts folks have referred to above:

The red rectangle = the switch that one flips to point toward the "service tank"...(the one being drawn from). In this picture it is pointed to the tank in the foreground which means that's the active "service tank"... the tank in the background would be the "reserve tank"...

The orange circle = the gauge that has a red ring (empty) or green ring (propane present) to indicate the state of the "service tank" (the one pointed to by the switch)...

The blue arrow = where the red/green rings are located, below the black cap that says "Do Not Remove"...

We have used this system successfully and have never run completely out of propane. One just needs to remember to check the gauge periodically.

We leave both tanks open so that when one runs out there will be seamless delivery of propane to all systems.

RangerJay · 09-11-2013, 05:03 PM

If your indicator is showing full green then the tank you are using is not empty - if it becomes "questionably red" then it is probably empty - the test is to if flip the lever to the next tank and if you notice a clear change to a solid green then it is time to change you empty tank - if there is no change then flip it back.

What's perhaps most important here is a change in the indicator - if you check it on a regular basis you will notice a change - if you do not check it on a regular basis you have nothing to measure a change against.

The other helpful indicator is to purchase tanks with their own visual gauges that let you know the percentage of propane you have left (or not).

Jay

Aage · 09-11-2013, 05:38 PM

Like most of you, we carry two bottles, both 30-pounders.

The way I see it, I only need to know when the first one goes empty. That does two things: assures me that it IS empty, so I will get my money's worth at CostCo (who have the cheapest fill-ups around here), and gives me a fair bit of time to fill the empty one up.

A couple of years ago, I bought a very simple device from our local RV place that solved those problems for me. It is a small black plastic device that you put on the valve that sits on my two tanks. It is wired with about a 25-foot cord to a small black box that takes 2-AAA cells and has only one item of note on its case: a single LED indicator.

Once installed (which took about 5 minutes), it works like this: it monitors the tanks, and when one goes empty, which triggers the switch-over to the other tank, the LED flashes.

That's it. Nothing to do immediately, but when it's convenient, refill the empty tank, and the cycle starts over. I think the device was about $40, and I consider it well worthwhile.