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Old 03-29-2006, 02:05 PM   #1
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Knob won't shut off gas

I'm in the middle of bench testing my '68 Magic Chef and have a problem: One knob won't turn off the gas, it goes staight out the burner. We jiggled it and one stopped only to shift to another. The "stems" into the knobs seem a little gunky... any ideas???

Thankds you!!
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Old 03-29-2006, 03:01 PM   #2
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Gas cock grease

The tapered part of the gas control requires a thin coating of "gas cock grease", which can be obtained from propane suppliers. This may be the problem with your controls. The control is dismantled, carefully cleaned, a thin smear of the grease is applied round all the taper, and the control is reassembled. I've done this on the propane stove in my yacht, with success in dealing with a leaky control valve. Don't use any other grease, and please do get a professional to do it if you're not conversant with the relevant safety issues. This matter is discussed at http://www.rvmobile.com/Tech/Trouble/gasvalve.htm , with a link to safety procedures.
Nick
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Old 03-29-2006, 03:14 PM   #3
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Do you mean taking the gas "L" shaped pipe out and unscrewing each burner's gas supply to grease the connection?

I also feel gas escaping from under the knob.
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Old 03-29-2006, 03:45 PM   #4
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The gas cock is just behind each knob. On the stoves I have worked on, each knob pulls off, and a pair of small screws need to be undone to pull out the tapered part of the cock.(After the propane is shut off at the tanks, of course.) Your stove may be different.
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Old 03-29-2006, 10:41 PM   #5
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I have pulled on the knobs and they seem not to be able to come off! Am I not pulling hard enough, or are they meant to be stuck?

What does tightening the part that enters to shaft toward the burner do? It has the ability to move and not be tight. I am wondering if it as something to do with the amount of gas going toward the burner?

The manual metions air. How do you control the air input?
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Old 03-30-2006, 06:14 AM   #6
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Check each knob for a tiny locking screw that passes through the plastic and into the metal shaft, usually in the bottom of the knob at the 6 o'clock position when the cock is in the off position. If there is no locking screw, the knobs should pull straight off. In all the stoves I've worked on, the air/propane mixture ratio is fixed by the construction of the burners, rather like a Bunsen burner with its air collar welded in one position. Once you have worked out how to dismantle the cocks, cleaned them and re-greased them and reassembled them, you will be able to check that the flames are the correct color. Until you have fixed the leaks, there is no point in thinking about the air/propane ratio. Just make sure all the tubes and jets are clean, and free of grease and carbon. Good luck.
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Old 03-30-2006, 11:14 AM   #7
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I got the knobs off.... what a dork. Does this come apart any further? When the gas was escaping I felt it under the knob. But whether it came from the cock (?stem) or the place where this assembly screws into the "L" gas pipe - I don't know.

Can/ should I soak this in something to clean it, or just smear grease in/or on it where I can?
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Old 03-30-2006, 11:22 AM   #8
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oops I forgot the pic
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Old 03-30-2006, 12:06 PM   #9
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In your photo you can see a faint line around the the center of the widest part of the valve. The valve probably comes apart at this joint. On some valves there are two setscrews holding the parts together. These would be on the front face of the valve, previously hidden by the knob. If there are no setscrews, and the front face in your photo is too dark to see, it is possible that the two halves unscrew from each other, though I have never seen this. You need to split the valve so that you can withdraw the tapered plug, clean all the parts, regrease and reassemble. Smearing grease on the outside will do nothing to cure the leaks.
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Old 03-30-2006, 12:14 PM   #10
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You only need a thin smear of the grease on the tapered plug, as the jet at the back of the valve must not be blocked. The jets can be cleaned by soaking in wood alcohol, and then blowing through with compressed air. If you don't have access to those materials, holding it up the light to check for an obstruction, and using a toothbrush bristle to clear any obstruction would probably work. If the orifice is too small for that, just put it between your lips and blow. Better than nothing!
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Old 03-30-2006, 12:22 PM   #11
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I've just enlarged your photo and lightened up my screen, and I can't see any setscrews on the face. I suspect that the front larger section unscrews from the narrower rear section. If you can see a joint line, I would put the valve in a vise and gently try to unscrew the parts. Don't break anything! Before you try that, are there any fastenings on the rear of the valve that hold the two parts together? Any other forum member taken one of these apart? We're flying blind here!
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Old 03-30-2006, 12:29 PM   #12
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see that "crimped" looking part at the very top? A problem?
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Old 03-30-2006, 12:36 PM   #13
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I agree I think it does unscrew. Looks hard to do... and that crimped area?
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Old 03-30-2006, 12:42 PM   #14
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I don't understand which part is crimped. Is there a joint line behind the wide part of the valve where the narrower part joins it? If there is, and there are no visible fastenings holding them together, I would put the valve in a soft jawed vice (wood packing can be used) with the vice gripping the narrow part. I would then use vise grips on the wide section and attempt to unscrew the two sections. If there is no screwed joint there, you obviously run the risk of breaking the valve, so you need to make a careful inspection to establish that there is a joint line.
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