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Old 12-19-2008, 10:43 PM   #1
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Kinked propane lines to stove

I have a question!!@! I hope to post photos soon, but I 'lost' my adapter to my camera, so please bear with me...
I noticed that from my propane to my stove was all of copper tubing instead of gas line tubing in my 1974 AS...I am afraid that I am going to have to 'rip' up the flooring, plywood, ect., in which to replace this....My ex had placed only electrical tape over the kinks in the copper tubing from the propane to my stove...I want to replace my Chef Magic Stove, but want to place it under my stove top....I am guessing that I will have to take out my plywood in order to trace down my copper tubing....
Get this, my copper tubing runs outside of the belly pan and is kinked!!! Does anyone else have this?
I need to know what to do as my husband made it quite clear that my AS is 'my project' and NOT his, so I have to re-do anything on my own...
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated..
As soon as I can replace the charger for my camera, I will send photos, and maybe someone can help me..
Thanks!!!
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Old 12-19-2008, 11:00 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by imeynstein View Post
I have a question!!@! I hope to post photos soon, but I 'lost' my adapter to my camera, so please bear with me...
I noticed that from my propane to my stove was all of copper tubing instead of gas line tubing in my 1974 AS...I am afraid that I am going to have to 'rip' up the flooring, plywood, ect., in which to replace this....My ex had placed only electrical tape over the kinks in the copper tubing from the propane to my stove...I want to replace my Chef Magic Stove, but want to place it under my stove top....I am guessing that I will have to take out my plywood in order to trace down my copper tubing....
Get this, my copper tubing runs outside of the belly pan and is kinked!!! Does anyone else have this?
I need to know what to do as my husband made it quite clear that my AS is 'my project' and NOT his, so I have to re-do anything on my own...
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated..
As soon as I can replace the charger for my camera, I will send photos, and maybe someone can help me..
Thanks!!!
Copper tubing is correct. That is what was installed at the factory. If kinked it can be replaced easily. The tube to your stove can be disconnected at the shut off valve for the stove, located under the trailer. You will need the correct tube flaring tools to make up the connections on the new copper tube. If you use pre-made gas pipe, make sure it is rated for use in an RV. It should be tagged as suitable for RV use.
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Old 12-20-2008, 12:32 AM   #3
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I appreciate your help tremendously!!! What tools do I need for flaring??? Do I also need compression fittings or anything else??? Sorry, I am just a nurse, but I try to be handy at fixing things myself---I just need some guidance....Thanks....
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Old 12-20-2008, 07:03 AM   #4
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Hi im -- This is an area where I'd probably have an RV dealer or furnace place do the work. Sure, it's a safety thing. But I have too many tools in other areas where I do a lot more work. You'll want to fully expose the gas line. This will involve useful skills in carpentry, assembly and maybe some sheet metal work. Gary, with the gas line pulled I'm wondering that maybe she wouldn't have to open up the belly pan -- do you have any thoughts on this?

im, regular RV dealers tend to shun working on Airstreams. You'll get further if you can have it disassembled enough to give them good access. Just like nursing -- be nice, be competent -- been there too. An RV dealer might also have to supply you with some "suitable for RV use" copper tubing?
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Old 12-20-2008, 10:40 AM   #5
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First off, "I am just a nurse"! Your career choice is very admirable and needed! I'd rather have your help than a doctor sometimes!

I'm in the same boat as you. I managed to crush my propane line under the tounge when blocking up the trailer.

I like to think I can repair just about anything on my safari, but I'm really considering investing in a professional to do the new propane line. I've heard that double flairing is an artform. As much as I would like to learn the process and buy the tools, I don't want to risk that "quit breathing" thing in the middle of the night.
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Old 12-20-2008, 11:15 AM   #6
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The propane tubing to the stove is one of the harder ones to get at because you will have to get at the connection at the stove.

If I remember correctly: Remove the screws that secure the stove to the counter, I think there are 2 in the back on top and then lift the top and there should be 2 into the counter under the stove top. Maybe more keep looking.
Once the screws are removed you can slide the stove forward and you'll see the propane connection on the back. Notice there is a coil of tubing connecting the stove. This coil allows you to pull the stove out from it's screwed in position.

The big question on your trailer is how the tubing is routed to the bottom of the trailer, where it connects to the shutoff valve. Both of our trailers 1977 24' Rear Door and a 20' Minuet, the tubing ran through the floor and are sealed with "Duct Seal" which is a sealing clay. They both are a relatively straight shot through the floor. You can cut the tube on the bottom side the pull it out. If you are worried about finding the holes again, before you pull the copper out attach a piece of plastic tubing to the copper, just tape it on. When you pull the copper out the plastic tube will be used as a guide for the new copper tubing.

Now it's the time to figure out how much new copper tubing you will need.
You will need a flaring tool for the copper tube available at many places, Sears, Tool supply houses... Buy a good one, cheaper is not better.
Now take a look at this primer on Flare Fittings. http://www.thegatesofdawn.ca/wordpre...lare-fittings/
Once your practiced on making the Flare Fitting you will also need a Spring bender to make the coil behind the stove. Look at these Klein 89018 Spring Type Tube Bender, 8-Pc. Set | AceToolOnline.com.

Now you are ready to install the new tube. Make up one end of the new copper, much easier to do it now. I would connect the new copper to the plastic tube sticking through the floor and push the new copper up into the trailer and coax it into place. connect it to the shutoff valve, it may take some finesse to make this connection, don't kink the new copper.

Now into the trailer and do your coil for the stove. Now makeup this connection. Once this is done go back outside and disconnect the connection form the valve and blow out the line from inside the trailer. This will insure you don't get shavings into your appliances. Reconnect the copper tube to the shutoff valve and then the stove.

Turn your propane back on and check for leaks. I use a commercial leak check that I get for a local Welding supply store. example: Gas Leak Detection Fluid, Gas Leak Detector Liquid - Abbey Products
If you don't have any leaks, reseal your hole through the floor, slide the stove back into place and screw it down. "Bob's your uncle" your done.

This job will take you about an hour or two if you have the experience working with copper tubing. It may you will take longer, but it is a learning adventure.
You will also want to clean around the stove, check and screws that you ma find and just look for general conditions around the stove hole. An RV shop would not do the cleaning and checking you can do with the stove out.
Good Luck!
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Old 12-20-2008, 02:08 PM   #7
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Old 12-20-2008, 07:01 PM   #8
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Janet's Husband is pretty much on the money. In some cases gas lines are doubled flared which means the tubing in is flared in on it self. I repaired my own but I was a plumber in a former life. Mine ran through the floor to a tee with a shut off valve hung under the trailer wrap. It was not that hard. You may want to look for a high quality flexible gas line with the correct fitting and use it. Easier to install and you don't have to worry about your flaring skills. It is easy to split a flare.

Attached are a couple of photos of the gas line before I repaired it, the PO sold me the trailer with fresh tape on the line. When I questioned him he told me he had someone else work on it and they did it. To make that type of repair is about as unethical as you can get. Propane is one dangerous fuel. The fellow still sells trailers and occasionally advertise on the site, buyer beware.


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Old 12-20-2008, 08:12 PM   #9
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Old 12-20-2008, 08:18 PM   #10
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Not to hijack- but what grade copper is required for propane? What symbols or text would be on the pipe at the local home improvement centers?
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Old 12-20-2008, 11:43 PM   #11
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Jim--your photo looks like the problem that I currently have!!! YIKES!!
I really appreciate your comments in relation to being a nurse, it feels nice to be appreciated!
Regarding my AS, we haven't a dealer or an RV repair facilitly for thousands of miles...So, I am just going to have to buckle down and do the best I can---with the help of Lowe's and you guys having FANTASTIC advice!!! Following the holidays, I am going to get started on her again and will post photos....Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-20-2008, 11:45 PM   #12
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Gary, I am printing off your step-by-step advice....I will keep you fellas and gals updated on my (hopeful) progress!!!
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Old 12-21-2008, 06:43 AM   #13
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Gary, I am printing off your step-by-step advice....I will keep you fellas and gals updated on my (hopeful) progress!!!
If you can define the correct end fittings and length I am sure you can order a line over the web. I have used Aeroquip hoses for fuel on classic cars. They may make propane rated hoses some one dose. Stainless Steel braided would be what you want and the peace of mind would serve you well.
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Old 12-21-2008, 01:14 PM   #14
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First off I highly recommend getting someone to do the job who knows how.

But if you insist on doing it yourself. You can often rent flaring tools from auto parts stores. They use the same flare system on brake lines, fuel lines etc on automobiles. You must work carefully and get the flare even. If the tool or tube is cocked to one side it will not make a good flare and will not seal. Also do not mash the flaring tool down too hard. Just gently form the flare. When you tighten the joint it will mash down and form into a tight seal.

O ya don't forget to put the nut on the line before you make the flare. Ask me how I found this one out LOL.

Do not pull the ends right tight. Leave some slack. A coil of tubing to absorb vibration can't hurt.

Test all joints with soapy water. A little dish washing soap in a spray bottle of water works fine. Preferably with compressed air but if air is not available turn on the gas and spray the joints while they are under pressure. If you see bubbles it means the joint is leaking.

Fasten the tubing up into place with a proper fastener every 2 feet. Remember when you are traveling there will be lot of vibration and stress. Make sure the tube is well supported.

Take your time and do a nice neat job and it will be fine.
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