Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-07-2011, 09:23 PM   #1
4 Rivet Member
 
lucymcdog's Avatar
 
1965 24' Tradewind
Saguache , Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 309
Images: 7
Blog Entries: 3
Installing Propane light

I just put a propane light in my 1960 AS but don't know how to connect it. It is on the end of the overhead galley cabinet right over the stove. I would like to run a line behind the cabinets from the stove connection. Can I just put a "T" in the stove line and then run the hose or pipe to the lamp? I've never worked with copper tubing before and don't know what I'm doing.
__________________

__________________
lucymcdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 09:31 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
SteveH's Avatar

 
2008 34' Classic S/O
Common Sense , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,260
Yes, you can put a "T" in the line. The pressure is all the same on the down stream side of the regulator.
__________________

__________________
Regards,
Steve

"The further a society drifts from the truth, the more it will hate those that speak it." George Orwell

'08 34' SO, '12 Ram 2500 4X4, Big 6 cylinder sludge burner.
SteveH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 09:31 PM   #3
x
 
wasagachris's Avatar

 
XXXX , XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,597
Lucy code requires all tees to be outside of the trailer. You will have to run a new copper line down through the floor and tee in to the original lines under the belly. You will need a pipe bender and flaring tool to make the new copper line. If this is the only gas line you need it might be more economical to have a local RV shop hook it up rather than buying tools. Code also does noy allow rubber or flexible hoses inside the trailer so it has to be copper pipe.
__________________
wasagachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 09:41 PM   #4
4 Rivet Member
 
lucymcdog's Avatar
 
1965 24' Tradewind
Saguache , Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 309
Images: 7
Blog Entries: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
Lucy code requires all tees to be outside of the trailer. You will have to run a new copper line down through the floor and tee in to the original lines under the belly. You will need a pipe bender and flaring tool to make the new copper line. If this is the only gas line you need it might be more economical to have a local RV shop hook it up rather than buying tools. Code also does noy allow rubber or flexible hoses inside the trailer so it has to be copper pipe.
Whoa! that sounds complicated so I think I'll take it to an RV shop for hook up.

Thanks for the info! I sure don't want to blow up my little trailer after all the work I've put into it (not to mention the $$$!)
__________________
lucymcdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 09:47 PM   #5
x
 
wasagachris's Avatar

 
XXXX , XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,597
Lucy it's not that complicated. After watching you do your electrical work I'm sure you could easily do this but the cost of the tools makes it cheaper to get a shop to do it. If you were replacing all the propane lines in your trailer then yes buy the tools and do it yourself.
__________________
wasagachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 09:55 PM   #6
4 Rivet Member
 
lucymcdog's Avatar
 
1965 24' Tradewind
Saguache , Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 309
Images: 7
Blog Entries: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
Lucy it's not that complicated. After watching you do your electrical work I'm sure you could easily do this but the cost of the tools makes it cheaper to get a shop to do it. If you were replacing all the propane lines in your trailer then yes buy the tools and do it yourself.
Hey! You've been following my electrical stuff, huh? It feels so good to get it all done and actually have it work. I certainly couldn't have done it without the forum!

BTW, I'm Lindy, my dog is Lucy but we are ok with being called by each other's name.

My neighbor has every tool under the sun so maybe he would have what I need. Just a pipe bender and a flaring tool? If he has it can you help me put it all together? I think all the other propane lines are ok but haven't had them tested yet. That's on my list of things to get done... my VERY LONG list...
__________________
lucymcdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 10:01 PM   #7
4 Rivet Member
 
Safari64's Avatar
 
1964 22' Safari
Eagle River , Alaska
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 251
What "code" applies to putting a light in a 1960 trailer?

My '64 has several T's in gas line inside (to oven, cat heater, lamp). They look stock, at least old.

Does "code" require I replace them?
__________________
Safari64 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 10:07 PM   #8
x
 
wasagachris's Avatar

 
XXXX , XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,597
Sorry Lindy. Yes I have been watching your work and coaching by Minno and TGTwinkie. Minno and I are friends through the forums. I am quite impressed by your abilities and willingnes to tackle new things.
You would also need a pipe cutter to cut the pipe to length. A long drill bit to get through the floor and belly will also help. 1/4" line will be fine for the lamp so you would need a reducing tee. Your main line should be 1/2" so 1/2"x1/2"x1/4" tee, a few feet of 1/4" copper line rated for gas and a couple of 1/4" flare nuts, some rubber insulated clamps to hold the line in place and a grommet for the hole in the belly will be all the materials nedded.
Flaring pipe is not hard just practice a few times to get the right depth of the flare and of course have a leak test done after installation. Soap test all new fittings and have the whole system pressure tested using a manometer.
__________________
wasagachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 10:15 PM   #9
x
 
wasagachris's Avatar

 
XXXX , XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,597
Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari64 View Post
What "code" applies to putting a light in a 1960 trailer?

My '64 has several T's in gas line inside (to oven, cat heater, lamp). They look stock, at least old.

Does "code" require I replace them?
What was done in 1964 can stay and was allowed at the time. IMO I would replace them but you do not have to. Shut off valves also must be outside of the trailer. All lines must terminate at the appliance with no connection points inside. Think of it this way the fewer connections which could be potential points of leaks inside the better. However your system has worked well for 47 yrs so it's totally up to yourself.
It would be a good idea to install a propane detector and a carbon monoxide detector and a smoke alarm for your own piece of mind. That way if anything does go awry you will be aware of it in time.
__________________
wasagachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 10:20 PM   #10
4 Rivet Member
 
lucymcdog's Avatar
 
1965 24' Tradewind
Saguache , Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 309
Images: 7
Blog Entries: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
Sorry Lindy. Yes I have been watching your work and coaching by Minno and TGTwinkie. Minno and I are friends through the forums. I am quite impressed by your abilities and willingnes to tackle new things. Thanks! It has been a lot of fun learning all that they've taught me.
You would also need a pipe cutter to cut the pipe to length. A long drill bit to get through the floor and belly will also help. I know my neighbor has a pipe cutter and I have a long drill bit so that's a start. 1/4" line will be fine for the lamp so you would need a reducing tee. Your main line should be 1/2" so 1/2"x1/2"x1/4" tee, a few feet of 1/4" copper line rated for gas and a couple of 1/4" flare nuts, some rubber insulated clamps where do I get all this stuff? At a hardware store? to hold the line in place and a grommet for the hole in the belly I've already got rubber grommets will be all the materials nedded.
I'll crawl under the trailer and take pictures of the line that is already there so you can tell me where to tee into it.

Flaring pipe is not hard just practice a few times to get the right depth of the flare and of course have a leak test done after installation. Soap test all new fittings and have the whole system pressure tested using a manometer.
Looks like I'm going to have another adventure!

Thanks!
__________________
lucymcdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 10:29 PM   #11
x
 
wasagachris's Avatar

 
XXXX , XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,597
Lindy RV stores or propane outlets will have the fittings and lines you need. Make sure you get copper line for gas and not plumbing pipe. I got mine from both kinds of places. I can order RV parts wholesale but found that the local propane gas suppiler was competitive with the RV wholesaler and had what I needed in stock.
__________________
wasagachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 11:08 PM   #12
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,604
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
Copper Tubing

Hi Lindy: It's me again. I see you are on another project. Just to clarify a few things. The material you are looking for is called copper tubing not pipe. Pipe is ridgid and tubing is flexible, the two are made of different copper alloys. It is available at places like Home Depot or Lowes.
As mentioned in an earlier post, you need to purchase the type designed for propane gas. If your neighbor has the tools that would be great. You will need a tubing cutter; a flaring tool set and perhaps a tubing bender.
Does your gas light have fittings on the back?
Is there by chance any of the copper tubing attached to the light?
If not you should take the light with you to get the proper fitting that matches the threads on the pipe going into the light?
Make sure you get fittings for flared fittings, Not ferrel fittings.
Here is a web site to show you how to do it.
www.askthebuilder.com/Copper_Tubing_Flaring_Tool_Video.shtml

If your light is similar to mine, it will use 1/4" copper tubing.
The problem with buying it at HD or Lowes is you will have to buy a considerable amount and it's expensive these days. You could go to a plumbing and heating shop; tell them what you want it for "propane" and they may sell the tubing to you by the foot and have the fittings as well.
Here is another one.

http://www.rvtechtips.com/?p=229
__________________
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 11:32 PM   #13
x
 
wasagachris's Avatar

 
XXXX , XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,597
Lindy I should mention that you will most likely have to replace the original line you want to tee into. Copper TUBING gets britle with age and will not flare properly. Since your mentor is now posting I will now bow out and leave you to his wisdom.
__________________
wasagachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 11:44 PM   #14
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,604
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
Lindy; wasagachris is correct. The copper does get brittle. Even with the new stuff, when you flare it you must be careful not to push the pipe too far into the flaring tool. If there is too much material above the surface you will get a deformed flair or one that is split. If you decide to use the old tubing to put the tee in; make sure you check for splits or deformations. And by all means check for leaks!

Hey wasagachris! Please don't bow out; all input and critique is welcome. Sorry if I offended you; sometimes I get carried away with the technical mumbo jumbo. So hang in there with us.
__________________

__________________
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Overhead Light Switch "HI-LIGHT-LO" motilley Lights - Interior & Exterior 10 11-22-2011 03:44 PM
How to Light the Pilot in the Oven lcurrie Stoves, Ovens & Microwaves 3 08-01-2011 07:16 PM
Panel indicator light for water pump and Water heater DJW Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 3 01-05-2011 07:01 PM
Can not find Propane leak bmklawt LP Gas, Piping, Tanks & Regulators 15 01-02-2011 10:01 AM





All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:58 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.
Modal Click