Installing Propane light

[TG Twinkie]

Chris!
Brilliant minds think alike or at least I think that's how it goes. And NO to the rest of the formum "We Are Not Married" LOL
Lindy: If you used a second receptacle that is only wired to the inverter or just plugged the LED's directly into the inverter. There would not be a feed back problem when on shore power.
Chris is right, the inverter setup will not be as energy efficient as a straight DC circuit. But like Chris, I would want to test it. Keep in mind that at times; even though it says it's a 12 volt circuit, if your Converter is in the High charge mode, the voltage output will be way north of 13 volts. The LED's fixtures may have protection for this but I'm not sure.
Another Question: Do the LED fixture each have a switch or is there one for the whole string? Or do you just plug it in and they come on?

[lucymcdog]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Chris!
Brilliant minds think alike or at least I think that's how it goes. And NO to the rest of the formum "We Are Not Married" LOL
Lindy: If you used a second receptacle that is only wired to the inverter or just plugged the LED's directly into the inverter. There would not be a feed back problem when on shore power.
Chris is right, the inverter setup will not be as energy efficient as a straight DC circuit. But like Chris, I would want to test it. Keep in mind that at times; even though it says it's a 12 volt circuit, if your Converter is in the High charge mode, the voltage output will be way north of 13 volts. The LED's fixtures may have protection for this but I'm not sure.
Another Question: Do the LED fixture each have a switch or is there one for the whole string? Or do you just plug it in and they come on?

It sounds like the best bet would be to go with a straight DC circuit if it will work that way. If I can do away with the transformer completely (and not use the 110 VAC it seems like that might be a better thing to do. Therefore, when I'm plugged into shore power the LED lights would actually be running on 12V but my handy-dandy converter would be constantly monitoring the battery (with it's blamed blinking light) and the battery wouldn't run down. When we're dry camping it would be running off the battery. I wouldn't have to plug in, unplug or make sure I don't forget to turn off the inverter. Think that might work?

My 3 LED lights are in line and all on one switch. There is a "terminal" where each light plugs in then that terminal wire goes to the transformer. Somewhere in there is a little on/off switch.

[lucymcdog]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Lindy,
Don't know why the questions and answers in post 31 are not different colors. I put different colors in my post. Hope you can understand it all. I thought it was odd that your response wasn't in color. But I was able to figure it out.
Your Propane lines look ok - I didn't really see any crushed places or major kinks in the lines that might indicate a leak. But the only way to know for sure is to test them. And yes, you can test them yourself. And I do that how?

There is no hurry. Wait until you get your light installed and piped in. A spray bottle of soapy water, a few wrenches (incase you find a leak) and the propane tank (with some propane in it) and regulator.
Do you have a furnace in the rig? I do have a wall furnace. No electrical or 12VDC to it, just propane. I haven't tested it out yet. I don't recall a furnace being discussed in the electrical work you completed.
How 'bout a refer? The fridge is propane only and is probably the original because the interior is bright turquoise and pink. If it still works, I'll keep it. If it doesn't then I'll have to buy another one and will be asking for help on how to switch it out. I already put both 110 VAC and 12VDC in the closet where the fridge goes. No water heater and don't plan to put one in.
Water heater?

It is a pretty basic trailer actually. But SO adorable!

[lucymcdog]

Originally Posted by walter1

These guys are giving you great advise. You can do it.

I bought the tools (cutter, bender, double flaring kit, proper "tube fitting" wrenches, leak detector) and installed new shut off valve and interior lines to furnace, wall heater, lamp, refrigerator & stove.

I'll loan you the tools, just treat them nice and ship them back when you're done.

What a generous offer! I might take you up on it but let me check with my neighbor first and see if he has the tools I need. Thanks for the offer. If I need to borrow them, I'll let you know.

[TG Twinkie]

I guess this explains the lack of color on post #31 Guess I'm confused as to why colors and fonts matter.

Last edited by silverleeper; Today at 04:43 PM. Reason: The use of bold, large or colored fonts should be used sparingly.

[silverleeper]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

I guess this explains the lack of color on post #31 Guess I'm confused as to why colors and fonts matter.

Last edited by silverleeper; Today at 04:43 PM. Reason: The use of bold, large or colored fonts should be used sparingly.

It is quoted from here. Airstream Forums - Airstream Owners Community- Community Rules

Posting standards: Forum members may use standard fonts available on the forum. The standard font size is 2. The use of bold, large or colored fonts should be used sparingly. Posts containing inappropriate formatting will be removed or modified at our discretion; e.g. all caps or excessive color. E-mail address are not appropriate forum user names.

I guess it boils down to what your interpretation of "sparingly" is.

[TG Twinkie]

Does it take more memory or something? Because it sure makes a difference when you communicate back and forth in different colors and font sizes. Is it time to change the standards for better communication?



Posting standards: Forum members may use standard fonts available on the forum. The standard font size is 2. The use of bold, large or colored fonts should be used sparingly. Posts containing inappropriate formatting will be removed or modified at our discretion; e.g. all caps or excessive color. E-mail address are not appropriate forum user names.

[silverleeper]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Does it take more memory or something? Because it sure makes a difference when you communicate back and forth in different colors and font sizes. Is it time to change the standards for better communication?



Posting standards: Forum members may use standard fonts available on the forum. The standard font size is 2. The use of bold, large or colored fonts should be used sparingly. Posts containing inappropriate formatting will be removed or modified at our discretion; e.g. all caps or excessive color. E-mail address are not appropriate forum user names.

I don't what to take this thread off topic. Feel free to PM any Moderator if you have an issue with the Community rules.

[Minno]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Chris!
Brilliant minds think alike or at least I think that's how it goes. And NO to the rest of the formum "We Are Not Married" LOL

This begs the question - be you a guy or be you a gal? Not that that tidbit really matters at all, but enquiring minds and all that... If you care to share that is.

Serif fonts take more ink to print and more electricity to display than san-serif fonts. That's one of those totally useless way too techincal things I learned years ago. One of the hazards of being a computer geek for 35+ years.

Chris

[TG Twinkie]

Thanks Chris; I really didn't intend on getting off topic. While I'm not a computer geek; I am an electro/mechanical geek; if there is such a thing. I really enjoy helping people to solve problems and learn while they are doing it. I too, have many years of experience; in the E/M field and am glad to have the opportunity to share it. Everytime I do this, I learn something as well.
I guess it is my inquisitive mind that got us here.

Now to the task at hand. Helping Lindy get the propane system working in her trailer.

[lucymcdog]

And lucky for me I found the right kind of geeks!

Since it is going to be -10 tonight, it is unlikely I'll be crawling under the trailer to try to tie anything into the propane line tomorrow. But don't give up on me! I WILL need help with the propane light. It just has to be a tad warmer.

Today was work inside the trailer day (guess I'm a retired geek). We got the black tank installed and the box built that goes over it (the black tank sits on top of the floor). Tomorrow is putting down the vinyl tile on the box and installing the potty! So far, no problems - just time consuming to get all those %$^$#^&(*# curves just right!

Moving right along...

[TG Twinkie]

Lindy;
Do you know what a carpenters pencil is? It's the flat looking pencils you see in the lumber store.
It's the perfect device for getting the curves just right.
I will assume you are using carboard or maybe masonite to make a pattern.
Start out by cutting your pattern material roughly the shape of the curve. The first time you lay the pattern next to the wall or whatever you are trying to fit to. Make what is called "match marks"; these are marks that will help you lay the pattern down in the same place everytime. They can be anywhere on the pattern that doesn't get cut off.

OK, lay the rough pattern against whatever you are trying to match to, let's say it is to the curved wall. Obviously there will be voids between your pattern and the wall. Make sure you have a good point on the pencil (they make sharpeners for these pencils and they are not expensive).

Now think of the wall as the bar or line that is across the capital letter "T", with the pattern held tightly in place, hold the pencil vertically with the narrow side of the pencil against the wall. When you look down on it, the wall is the bar across the tee and the pencil is the leg of the tee. Trace around the wall. You will notice the mark on your pattern is about 1/8" to 3/16" from the wall. And there will be places the pencil is off the pattern but that's OK at this point. Pick the pattern up and cut the pieces of the pattern off wherever it is out side the line.
Lay the pattern down matching it up to the marks; then repeat the process tracing and removing of the part of the pattern outside the line. Do it as many times at it takes until you can draw a continuous line on the pattern then cut the pattern to the line.
There is one more step; Now, with the pencils flat side against the wall (it will look something like this =) the top bar being the wall and the bottom bar being the pencil. Trace around the wall again. Then carefully cut the pattern again. It should match almost perfectly to the wall. Repeat if necessary.
I hope this makes sense. Maybe you already know how to do this.

[lucymcdog]

It is way too cold (-15) to work today so we're going to the "big city" to get more parts, check out prices on propane tools, and get a carpenter's pencil sharpener (I didn't know they made those).

We generally cut a rough pattern out of cardboard then when it is "close", out of 1/4" cheap stuff. Your method of scribing sounds a lot easier than what we do which is cut, mark, cut, mark, cut, mark, throw away and start over. We will be cutting the bathroom wall (compound cut - bleh!) this week so your method will get a real workout.

Thanks!
Lindy

[Jammer]

I have a propane light in my stick house.

A fact to consider is that propane lights are susceptible to the activities of certain kinds of insects, spiders especially, that like to build webs inside the venturi. When they do this, the light will not burn quite right, and will produce more carbon monoxide. Due to the low flow rate of these lights (2000 BTU) the risk is small but nonetheless any poor performance should be a reason to disassemble the light and clean the venturi.

Another fact to remember is that the mantles contain thorium, which is radioactive and hazardous if ingested. When these lights are installed in kitchen areas, great care should be taken to clean up all the mantle fragments when the mantle breaks or is removed.

[lucymcdog]

Originally Posted by Jammer

I have a propane light in my stick house.

A fact to consider is that propane lights are susceptible to the activities of certain kinds of insects, spiders especially, that like to build webs inside the venturi. When they do this, the light will not burn quite right, and will produce more carbon monoxide. Due to the low flow rate of these lights (2000 BTU) the risk is small but nonetheless any poor performance should be a reason to disassemble the light and clean the venturi.

Another fact to remember is that the mantles contain thorium, which is radioactive and hazardous if ingested. When these lights are installed in kitchen areas, great care should be taken to clean up all the mantle fragments when the mantle breaks or is removed.

Its a wonder any of us survive ourselves!

I have decided the solution to my propane light is to let the RV place do it when I take the trailer in to have a new axle and/or springs put on. I talked to them today and they said they could do it all - including checking to see that the fridge works (or not), the stove works, and the furnace is safe.

Thanks to all who offered suggestions and support that I could do the propane tee for the light. When I went to the hardware store today the guy wouldn't even show me the tools or the stuff I needed. He said take it to somebody who knows what they're doing.

So I will!

[lucymcdog]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Lindy;

OK, lay the rough pattern against whatever you are trying to match to, let's say it is to the curved wall. Obviously there will be voids between your pattern and the wall. Make sure you have a good point on the pencil (they make sharpeners for these pencils and they are not expensive).

Now think of the wall as the bar or line that is across the capital letter "T", with the pattern held tightly in place, hold the pencil vertically with the narrow side of the pencil against the wall. When you look down on it, the wall is the bar across the tee and the pencil is the leg of the tee. Trace around the wall. You will notice the mark on your pattern is about 1/8" to 3/16" from the wall. And there will be places the pencil is off the pattern but that's OK at this point. Pick the pattern up and cut the pieces of the pattern off wherever it is out side the line.
Lay the pattern down matching it up to the marks; then repeat the process tracing and removing of the part of the pattern outside the line. Do it as many times at it takes until you can draw a continuous line on the pattern then cut the pattern to the line.
There is one more step; Now, with the pencils flat side against the wall (it will look something like this =) the top bar being the wall and the bottom bar being the pencil. Trace around the wall again. Then carefully cut the pattern again. It should match almost perfectly to the wall. Repeat if necessary.
I hope this makes sense. Maybe you already know how to do this.

You must be better at making patterns than I am. Or do you take off 1/4" every time you mark on the pattern? I know when the pattern is too big that I need to cut it off according to my pencil line - but what do you do when there is a dip or two or three between the pattern and the wall (or in my case, the ceiling?) There's nothing there to mark on. Do you add another piece to the back of it and mark that?

At least I have a nice sharp carpenter's pencil now!

I did use your method this afternoon and got an "almost" fit but I do have several dips where I need to add to rather than take away from the pattern.

[Minno]

Hey, Lindy! As a quilter, I know you probably have freezer paper for templating. You can use that for patterns for your floor tiles, at least to rough cut them. Easier than using something stiffer, and you can finesse them as you go. I can't help you with electrical or gas, but, by golly, I can help you with templates!

Kay

[TG Twinkie]

Hi Lindy; Sorry you're having trouble.

"but what do you do when there is a dip or two or three between the pattern and the wall (or in my case, the ceiling?) There's nothing there to mark on. Do you add another piece to the back of it and mark that?"

You mark on the part of the pattern that is touching or close to touching the wall, what ever part the pencil will make a mark on; then remove the part outside the mark. When you put the pattern against the wall again those gaps you mention will be smaller. Just keep marking the pattern wherever the pencil will make a mark, then cut those high spots off. You will get to the point where you can draw a line on the pattern that is continuous and when that happens and you cut on that line it will match the wall.

"I did use your method this afternoon and got an "almost" fit but I do have several dips where I need to add to rather than take away from the pattern."

Since the pattern material is a throw away item, just keep cutting the high spots of the pattern off until you have eliminated the gaps.

[lucymcdog]

Originally Posted by Minno

Hey, Lindy! As a quilter, I know you probably have freezer paper for templating. You can use that for patterns for your floor tiles, at least to rough cut them. Easier than using something stiffer, and you can finesse them as you go. I can't help you with electrical or gas, but, by golly, I can help you with templates!

Kay

Ah! I certainly can use freezer paper - and you KNOW I have some!

Thanks for the great hint!
Lindy

[lucymcdog]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Hi Lindy; Sorry you're having trouble.

"but what do you do when there is a dip or two or three between the pattern and the wall (or in my case, the ceiling?) There's nothing there to mark on. Do you add another piece to the back of it and mark that?"

You mark on the part of the pattern that is touching or close to touching the wall, what ever part the pencil will make a mark on; then remove the part outside the mark. When you put the pattern against the wall again those gaps you mention will be smaller. Just keep marking the pattern wherever the pencil will make a mark, then cut those high spots off. You will get to the point where you can draw a line on the pattern that is continuous and when that happens and you cut on that line it will match the wall.

"I did use your method this afternoon and got an "almost" fit but I do have several dips where I need to add to rather than take away from the pattern."

Since the pattern material is a throw away item, just keep cutting the high spots of the pattern off until you have eliminated the gaps.

I think part of the problem was that it was 16 degrees and I was trying to get something done with frozen hands. What you say makes sense so I will heat up the man-cave tomorrow and try to do a better job. And I won't cut from the birch until I'm certain it will work.

Thanks
Lindy