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Old 06-12-2015, 09:29 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
2000 27' Safari
Naples , Florida
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 24
HELP PLEASE Gasline Install on 1999 27' Safari

So the main line comes down the passenger side of the trailer under the steel rail and is 1/2" soft copper.
This in turn tees off to the appliances in a smaller size probably 3/8".

The trailer does not look like it is factory as the 3/8" lines are routed through the same size "Retaining Bands" as the 1/2" copper line. So the 3/8" lines are free to move all over the place as the 1/2" bands are used everywhere.

So did the previous owner go cheap and downsize the fitting at the heater, water heater, stove and fridge?

It looks like the 3/8" fits the appliance but under the belly pan it looks like 1/2" copper was used originally.

A few of the 3/8" stuff is crimped at the tee where it fasten set to the 1/2" main line.

If I have to down size for the appliances can this be done with an in-line reducing flared coupling before it goes into the appliance cabinet?

The main reason I'm looking into this issue is I'm adding front stabilizing jacks to the trailer and the main line has to get bent around the lowing bolt of the jack.

As well as wanting to fix the major crimped copper line going to the fridge as we always have issues with the fridge getting powered off of propane and I bet this has everything to do with it.

Advice please as I'm not a Tech but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.....

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Old 06-12-2015, 09:49 PM   #2
Rivet Master
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland , New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,626
Images: 3
What you described is normal. 1/2" main line that has individual branches of 3/8" to the appliances.
You'll probably have to add a little length to the main when you rerout it around the stabilizer. Just get a 1/2" to 1/2" flare union to add on the extra length.
The line to the fridge can be fairly long inside the trailer for getting it to the fridge and provide flexibility connecting and reducing vibration transfer. Keep it long when you replace it. Or, if the crimp is exterior, you could try to just cut out the crimp and splice in a short piece. Save running all through belly pan and working to get to fridge.
The clamps holding the tubing up probably came that way from the factory. Crappy I know. If you want to fix them you can unrivet them, wrap a little rubber around them to fill the gap and still provide soft cushion, bike tire inner tube works well, then rivet them back up.

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Old 06-12-2015, 09:52 PM   #3
Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia , Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
The original main line was most likely the half inch you mention, and the branch lines were all 3/8. I don't think anything was changed by a previous owner. So, I think your system is pretty much original. Airstream used the same bands all over, for the most part. A lot of gas can be carried through even 3/8 lines with the short distances involved. If you are having problems, the first thing to do is to check the pressure from your regulator. Better yet, just replace it, it is 16 years old now, close to it's general life.

If you have a crimp in the refrigerator line, repair or replace it. More likely, after this time it simply needs the burner and burner tube cleaned. Rust and spider webs plus mud daubers get into things and they can't work the way they were designed.
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Old 06-12-2015, 10:28 PM   #4
2 Rivet Member
2000 27' Safari
Naples , Florida
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 24
Thanks it just looks wired that Airstream would rout a 3/8" line through a 1/2" band.

I'll probably just add length to the main line if that's what you guys recommend.
And of course fix the crimp.

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