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Old 01-15-2011, 08:53 PM   #29
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Thanks all.. this is a very helpful thread. J.Page
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Old 01-15-2011, 10:22 PM   #30
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I have a flairing tool and I think it is for a single flair, but I don't know. What does a double flair look like and where do I buy a double flair tool?

Thanks, Dan
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Old 01-16-2011, 11:29 AM   #31
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The next time you go to an auto parts store; ask them to show you a piece of steel brake line. It will be double flared. If you know what the single flare; which makes the end of the tubing flared out kinda like the horn of trumpet. They will probably have a double flare tool set. I would not expect it to be cheap.
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Old 10-04-2011, 07:19 AM   #32
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Double flaring tool

I bought a double flaring tool at Harbor Freight for under $20.00
I don't like buying foreign made, but Craftsman wanted over $100. That's just ridiculous!
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Old 10-06-2011, 02:35 PM   #33
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I never heard of needing a double flare for gas lines. We use single 37 degree flares for 1000's of psi here at NASA and we are dealing with stuff alot worse than propane. Double flares are used on steel brake lines and that is probably because of the extreme pressures you are dealing with.

Perry
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:18 AM   #34
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Double flared fittings, Rectorseal, and petcocks.

I know that the newer code requires double-flared connections, but all the old trailers have single flare, which is fine for the low pressure propane (10-30 inches water column is only a couple p.s.i.). That's what I'm using, and it isn't leaking.
I use the yellow #5 Rectorseal pipe sealant on all my connections. A lot of people insist that you don't need sealant beacuse it's a flared fitting, blah, blah, blah. But if you disconnect and re-connect single flared fittings too many times, it WILL leak. Maybe that's why the newer code has double-flared fittings. Or the engineers got bored.
So use the Rectorseal, and you won't have any problems.
I am also adding individual petcocks (shutoffs) underneath, for each appliance. It's pretty easy. Loosen a couple of the clamps holding the propane line that feeds the appliance, disconnect the 3/8" line at the 1/2" distribution T (main line), and pull the propane line back a few inches. Install a 3/8" x 3/8" swivel connector, add the petcock, and connect the old propane line to the petcock. Make sure all the connections are tight, and re-attach the clamps.
You don't even have to make new flared connections!! Test for leaks, and you're good to go.
Just my 2 cents worth.
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Old 10-13-2011, 05:50 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
I never heard of needing a double flare for gas lines. We use single 37 degree flares for 1000's of psi here at NASA and we are dealing with stuff alot worse than propane. Double flares are used on steel brake lines and that is probably because of the extreme pressures you are dealing with.

Perry
Aviation uses 37 degree flared fitting but Commercial uses 45 degree. All aircraft oxygen systems, low and high pressure, require double flare per the FAA. A double flare will always seal better when using the softer alloys then the single flare. I too have used single flare on the larger stainless steel flared fitting. For high pressure I prefer the MS flareless fittings. In my opinion the Swagloc fitting are the best all around but they are not approved for aviation use, but I understand that the US Navy uses them on the Subs. I will be using a lot of these on my Airstream and most likely on the propane also, however it will be better then the requirements set up by the RV industry, but they will not be flared.
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Old 10-13-2011, 06:08 PM   #36
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Well plumb the whole thing in stainless steel. I like swaglock compression fittings and I would have no problem using them. I used them on my house propane system eventhough it is not code.

Perry
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Old 10-13-2011, 06:11 PM   #37
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Hose option

Earthbound RV is using flexible hose and what looks like an aluminum block manifold on their RVs. Looks like a different approach. I'd be interested to see all the specs in detail. I also wonder how easy it would be to fabricate new hoses if needed. See page 21 of the attached Earthbound Factory tour PDF.
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File Type: pdf 2011-EB-Factory-Tour-V1.2.pdf (8.81 MB, 58 views)
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:22 AM   #38
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Ok, no fittings beyond tee at main line, got it. So what about installing a cooktop see video Airstream Restoration - 06-4 Cooktop, Microwave & Fridge (Reloaded) - YouTube does this guy have it wrong or not.

I'm confused!!!!!!!
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:58 AM   #39
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Undercarriage propane lines.

This is how I ended up running my propane lines:
Main trunk line is 5/8" (factory), most of which was re-usable. I added a pvc pipe at the trailer tongue for protection, and also used and additional braided hose that I split, and wrapped around the new propane sections. Rocks can really damage things at 50-60 m.p.h.!
Here's the main supply line:
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Here's the 1/2" lines, routed underneath:
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I added gascocks at ALL penetrations. I had to use a swivel flared fitting to connect to the original "T", and then add the gascock and new propane lines. New lines went into the trailer from there. Note that I used braided hose as an additional prtotective layer on the copper 1/2" lines:
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I also used yellow #5 Rectorseal on all the fittings, and checked for leaks. Works fine!
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