Gas piping replacement

[Jammer]

I'll add that it's pretty unusual for appliances, except maybe the range, to develop leaks upstream of the valve that can't be repaired in the field.

The range is the worst in this regard because of the larger number of valves and fittings and the difficulty of access.

The other appliances have only one fitting upstream of the gas valve. It's pretty rare for the gas valves on these to leak when turned off.

[handyman1425]

Another trick if your copper has sat around and is not soft but alittle hard is to heat it with a plumbers torch for makeing bends or for flareing the ends. I used to be in heating and air cond and some times refrigeration and a swaged the ends so one end would slip into the other and even on strait sticks of copper alittle heat goes along way.

Wally

[DanielB]

Originally Posted by handyman1425

alittle heat goes along way.
Wally

yeah, that's the first thing that I'd think to do if I had a propane leak.. get in there and fire up a torch.. ha ha.. lol.. (just playin)

[Chuck]

Originally Posted by wasagachris

exactly the valve body itself acn develop a leak and people tend to think they can shut off the valve and then remove the appliance leaving the lin uncapped and continue to use the propane system like that. All appliances have their own internal valves there is no need for in line shut offs.

well..thats the only way to shut off the pilot on my original (1973) furnace.
I guess new ones probably don't even have pilots, right?

I can't recall at the moment if my stove has one inside the trailer. I know the cat heater's is outside. I think fridge, too...but neither of those is oem.

[airdoxy]

Originally Posted by Dave Park

That's code. Code is really particular about the "no tees or joins inside the trailer" rule. It's also safer.

OK.... I am also repiping my propane system in an 58' AS.

This then means that you have to 'T' outside for each appliance? and go through the floor for each appliance? In this case is there no separate shut-off valve for each appliance except for the main valve at the tanks?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by airdoxy

OK.... I am also repiping my propane system in an 58' AS.

This then means that you have to 'T' outside for each appliance? and go through the floor for each appliance? In this case is there no separate shut-off valve for each appliance except for the main valve at the tanks?

Absolutely correct.

Andy

[wasagachris]

Airdoxy you can install your own shut offs to each appliance after the tee's if you like as long as they remain outside the trailer. IMO they are redundant as each new appliance has it's own gas valve to stop the flow of propane. I am redoing my propane system without shut offs. They are just more connections and a possible source of leaks.

[TG Twinkie]

If you buy it in 25' rolls from Home Depot or Lowes; the box it comes in will tell you what it is rated for. Use 1/2" for the main trunk line, then size each of the branch lines for the particular appliance it feeds.
It is my understanding that todays code calls for double flare fittings. I'm not sure if you are required to meet that standard on the older rigs. Most I've seen have single flare fittings on the appliances.

Chuck: I believe your furnace has a shut off to the pilot; that is the reason you have to hold the button in when you light the pilot. To overide the safety; which is the shut off valve for the pilot. Once the pilot is lit the thermocoupele monitors the pilot flame; if the pilot goes out the valve closes, wah lah no gas. Now if you have a standing pilot on your cook top there is no safety circuit, the oven will have a thermocouple since it is an enclosed space.

[airdoxy]

Thanks all.. this is a very helpful thread. J.Page

[TouringDan]

I have a flairing tool and I think it is for a single flair, but I don't know. What does a double flair look like and where do I buy a double flair tool?

Thanks, Dan

[TG Twinkie]

The next time you go to an auto parts store; ask them to show you a piece of steel brake line. It will be double flared. If you know what the single flare; which makes the end of the tubing flared out kinda like the horn of trumpet. They will probably have a double flare tool set. I would not expect it to be cheap.

[edglenn]

I bought a double flaring tool at Harbor Freight for under $20.00
I don't like buying foreign made, but Craftsman wanted over $100. That's just ridiculous!

[perryg114]

I never heard of needing a double flare for gas lines. We use single 37 degree flares for 1000's of psi here at NASA and we are dealing with stuff alot worse than propane. Double flares are used on steel brake lines and that is probably because of the extreme pressures you are dealing with.

Perry

[edglenn]

I know that the newer code requires double-flared connections, but all the old trailers have single flare, which is fine for the low pressure propane (10-30 inches water column is only a couple p.s.i.). That's what I'm using, and it isn't leaking.
I use the yellow #5 Rectorseal pipe sealant on all my connections. A lot of people insist that you don't need sealant beacuse it's a flared fitting, blah, blah, blah. But if you disconnect and re-connect single flared fittings too many times, it WILL leak. Maybe that's why the newer code has double-flared fittings. Or the engineers got bored.
So use the Rectorseal, and you won't have any problems.
I am also adding individual petcocks (shutoffs) underneath, for each appliance. It's pretty easy. Loosen a couple of the clamps holding the propane line that feeds the appliance, disconnect the 3/8" line at the 1/2" distribution T (main line), and pull the propane line back a few inches. Install a 3/8" x 3/8" swivel connector, add the petcock, and connect the old propane line to the petcock. Make sure all the connections are tight, and re-attach the clamps.
You don't even have to make new flared connections!! Test for leaks, and you're good to go.
Just my 2 cents worth.

[Aerowood]

Originally Posted by perryg114

I never heard of needing a double flare for gas lines. We use single 37 degree flares for 1000's of psi here at NASA and we are dealing with stuff alot worse than propane. Double flares are used on steel brake lines and that is probably because of the extreme pressures you are dealing with.

Perry

Aviation uses 37 degree flared fitting but Commercial uses 45 degree. All aircraft oxygen systems, low and high pressure, require double flare per the FAA. A double flare will always seal better when using the softer alloys then the single flare. I too have used single flare on the larger stainless steel flared fitting. For high pressure I prefer the MS flareless fittings. In my opinion the Swagloc fitting are the best all around but they are not approved for aviation use, but I understand that the US Navy uses them on the Subs. I will be using a lot of these on my Airstream and most likely on the propane also, however it will be better then the requirements set up by the RV industry, but they will not be flared.

[perryg114]

Well plumb the whole thing in stainless steel. I like swaglock compression fittings and I would have no problem using them. I used them on my house propane system eventhough it is not code.

Perry

[Lance M]

Earthbound RV is using flexible hose and what looks like an aluminum block manifold on their RVs. Looks like a different approach. I'd be interested to see all the specs in detail. I also wonder how easy it would be to fabricate new hoses if needed. See page 21 of the attached Earthbound Factory tour PDF.

[DFlores]

Ok, no fittings beyond tee at main line, got it. So what about installing a cooktop see video

Airstream Restoration - 06-4 Cooktop, Microwave & Fridge (Reloaded) - YouTube

does this guy have it wrong or not.

I'm confused!!!!!!!

[edglenn]

This is how I ended up running my propane lines:
Main trunk line is 5/8" (factory), most of which was re-usable. I added a pvc pipe at the trailer tongue for protection, and also used and additional braided hose that I split, and wrapped around the new propane sections. Rocks can really damage things at 50-60 m.p.h.!
Here's the main supply line:

Here's the 1/2" lines, routed underneath:

I added gascocks at ALL penetrations. I had to use a swivel flared fitting to connect to the original "T", and then add the gascock and new propane lines. New lines went into the trailer from there. Note that I used braided hose as an additional prtotective layer on the copper 1/2" lines:

I also used yellow #5 Rectorseal on all the fittings, and checked for leaks. Works fine!