gas line road clearance

[uncledan]

Recently acquired a 66 Caravel. I was underneath it trying to get an idea of how to remove some of the belly skin (still not sure) to access some floor rot when I noticed the gas line had less than 7 inches of road clearance where it passes around the axle. Am I mistaken in thinking that it's kind of vulnerable? Are they all like that?

[wasagachris]

My gas lines passed under the axles against the belly pan. i think someone has replaced yours improperly.

[FreshAir]

Mine go under my axles. Plenty of clearance. Sounds like that you need to replace those old axles. The torsion rubber has 'collapsed'.
Neil

[Airslide]

I always wondered why airstream didnt hide those gas lines inside the belly pan? Its not like you ever have to service them? I find it strange that even on my classic the lines are just screwed to the lower skin.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Airslide

I always wondered why airstream didnt hide those gas lines inside the belly pan? Its not like you ever have to service them? I find it strange that even on my classic the lines are just screwed to the lower skin.

LPG lines must be exposed as per RVDA.

Reduces the chance of an explosion.

Andy

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Airslide

I always wondered why airstream didnt hide those gas lines inside the belly pan? Its not like you ever have to service them? I find it strange that even on my classic the lines are just screwed to the lower skin.

Also, no other fittings are permited inside the coach except at the appliance, meaning no "T's" as an example.

Some shops have "Teed" into an LPG line inside the coach for a LPG lamp.

NO NO.

It's against the code.

Andy

[Airslide]

Ok... but there is a considerable amount of line inside the trailer aswell. So this rule would then apply to all RV's.. any make or model. I didnt know that. I know that my Winnebago had a tank underneath and the lines quickly went up into the coach.

Vin

[uncledan]

Originally Posted by uncledan

Recently acquired a 66 Caravel. I was underneath it trying to get an idea of how to remove some of the belly skin (still not sure) to access some floor rot when I noticed the gas line had less than 7 inches of road clearance where it passes around the axle. Am I mistaken in thinking that it's kind of vulnerable? Are they all like that?

Here are pictures of the gas line I meant to include

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by uncledan

Here are pictures of the gas line I meant to include

The LPG line location in your photo should be immediately corrected.

It most certainly is way way out of position.

Part of the reason Airstream installed the LPG line over the axle tube was because of the short axle mounting bracket.

One inch was added to the axle mounting bracket height starting with the 1969 models, which then provide adequate clearance to install the LPG lines under the axle tube, near each side of the frame.

By the way, it appears from your photo, that you should check your axle out, as it seems that the rubber rods may have failed.

The Dura-Torque Axle

Andy

[uncledan]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

The LPG line location in your photo should be immediately corrected.

It most certainly is way way out of position.

Part of the reason Airstream installed the LPG line over the axle tube was because of the short axle mounting bracket.

One inch was added to the axle mounting bracket height starting with the 1969 models, which then provide adequate clearance to install the LPG lines under the axle tube, near each side of the frame.

By the way, it appears from your photo, that you should check your axle out, as it seems that the rubber rods may have failed.

The Dura-Torque Axle

Andy

Thanks Andy
The guy who sold the Caravel to us suggested we might want to get the axle replaced due to its age, so I kinda thought that might be on the to do list.

So the gas line should be rerouted to go between the axle and the belly skin?
And what did you spot on the picture that gave away the fact that the axle might need replacing?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by uncledan

Thanks Andy
The guy who sold the Caravel to us suggested we might want to get the axle replaced due to its age, so I kinda thought that might be on the to do list.

So the gas line should be rerouted to go between the axle and the belly skin?
And what did you spot on the picture that gave away the fact that the axle might need replacing?

The new axles will allow the LPG line to go on top of the square tube, because of the one inch increase in it's height.

The position of the "torsion arm" tells the condition of the rubber rods. If it's parallel to the chassis or the rear end of the torsion arm is going uphill, then that says that the rubber rods have deteriorated to the degree that they are no longer doing the job that they must do for a torsion axle.

The result of failed rubber rods, is that the trailer will bottom out when hitting bumps. That has a large negative effect on the shell and the contents of the trailer.

The exception being when the weight is removed from the tire. The tire should drop about 3 inches, telling you that the rubber rods are ok.

Many posts on this Forums, from other owners, will bear that out.

Andy

[uncledan]

Thank you Andy

Can any place that works on trailers replace the axle or should it be an Airstream dealer?
Is replacing/rerouting the gas line something I could try to tackle myself or is it something best left to a professional?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by uncledan

Thank you Andy

Can any place that works on trailers replace the axle or should it be an Airstream dealer?
Is replacing/rerouting the gas line something I could try to tackle myself or is it something best left to a professional?

Changing out the axle, in your case, would require a drill, a 1/2 inch drill bit and a couple of wrenches.

The shock mounting brackets can be welded in place before the axle is lifted into place.

You may find the copper LPG lines have annealed, as they usually do in time. You can easily replace all those lines, if you so chose.

You would need a jack, 2 jack stands, and a helper to lift the new axle in place.

Andy

[tkasten]

I replaced the axle on my 65 Safari and purchased it from Andy. It was not too hard of a job. It took me half a day. I did have to drill a couple of new holes in the mounting bracket but that was not too bad. I jacked up the trailer and used two car jacks to position the new axle. Toughest part of the job for me was getting the old bolts out. A torch would have made that part a snap. Bottom line is the trailer gained about 3 inches of clearance and rides so smooth that a coffee cup did not even slide off the kitchen cupboard after 50+ miles. I did run my gas line up and over the new axle....Tim

[uncledan]

Thanks for the info Tim.
Andy mentioned that the "shock mounting brackets can be welded in place". I can drill and use a wrench but welding is not a skill that I have in my tool bag. So my question is - is welding required or an option?
Dan

[tkasten]

Originally Posted by uncledan

Thanks for the info Tim.
Andy mentioned that the "shock mounting brackets can be welded in place". I can drill and use a wrench but welding is not a skill that I have in my tool bag. So my question is - is welding required or an option?
Dan

Dan, The following is a post I just added to another thread. It should make things really simple for you as your AS is so short. You can read a bunch of threads and post on shocks but I'm convinced that they are not needed on smaller AS. You decide....Tim - TAC 14.

I installed a new henschen axle on my 65 Safari last spring. After several phone calls to Airstream Service Tecs. I was told I did not need the shocks. If fact, Airstream no longer uses them on 25' and under. Umm! All of the other manufactures do not use them with torsion axles. Something to do with the shock transfering some of the force into the axle. In any case the experts told me I didn't need them.....Tim - TAC MI 14

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by uncledan

Thanks for the info Tim.
Andy mentioned that the "shock mounting brackets can be welded in place". I can drill and use a wrench but welding is not a skill that I have in my tool bag. So my question is - is welding required or an option?
Dan

Dan.

As with anything, the shock useage choice is yours.

You could, if you wish, take the axle to a welder and have the brackets installed to match their placement on the old axle.

We recommend that they be installed, since they are a motion restrictor.

There is no proof that they hurt anything, but there is proof that shocks that they can and do help. We do not go along with the size of the trailer has anything to do with the choice.

Andy

[easyride]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Changing out the axle, in your case, would require a drill, a 1/2 inch drill bit and a couple of wrenches.

The shock mounting brackets can be welded in place before the axle is lifted into place.

You may find the copper LPG lines have annealed, as they usually do in time. You can easily replace all those lines, if you so chose.

You would need a jack, 2 jack stands, and a helper to lift the new axle in place.

Andy

On all the axles I have replaced,5/8 bolts were required,finally decided a 5/8 hole saw was the easiest way to drill out the new holes.Just removed the pilot and it was an easy process,sure beat fighting a drill bit,and didn`t have to keep increasing the bit size. Dave