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Old 05-08-2015, 04:21 PM   #15
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See my post above. I run 2 Honda 2000s simultaneously from mine. Enough to AC my trailer
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Old 05-09-2015, 09:14 AM   #16
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Thanks to each of your for your responses. I found the post from greghoro most helpful. His post read: See page 24 in the August 2014 Blue Beret magazine (go to WBCCI website, under Magazines, select Blue Beret Archives) for an article on just this subject. Sorry, I'm too new to the forum to post a full link.

In a nutshell. You can have a second regulator as long as the output pressure requirements of the second regulator is less than the incoming pressure.

I researched this and found a hose which fits both the airstream quick disconnect and the weber grill to be available from mbsturgis.com. This company is the manufacturer of the hose that comes with the quick disconnect which comes with the airstream trailer when purchased. The onpy problem with that is it does not have the proper adapter for the weber type grill, one which will fit both the quick disconnect on the airstream and the and the weber grill is available through them under their part number SKU: 100476. Thanks again for all you guys help
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Old 05-09-2015, 10:09 AM   #17
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I am still uncertain of the ability to use the portable grill through the regulator located at the propane bottles and the regulator on the gas grill as well. I can't see why you can't but then again as i am getting conflicting views I have written airstream and will see what they have to say then report back. If it is the i have to take the regulator off then i will just continue carrying a propane bottle
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Old 05-09-2015, 10:33 AM   #18
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I have connected propane fireplace and grill directly to the AS tanks before with no problem. The use of the "quick connect" is what complicates the issue. Greg's explanation clears up the the mystery of the double regulator story. I look at grills a different way perhaps, "which grill do I want to cook with?" Then "can I connect it to the low pressure quick connect or not?" If I cannot, then get a long hose , portable tank or a combination of both. To me it's all about the grill first.
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Old 05-09-2015, 10:34 AM   #19
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BTW this is a "killer grill"

http://rasmussensolairestore.com/sto...p?idCategory=6
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Old 05-09-2015, 10:35 AM   #20
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They sell a kit for the quick connect. I ordered one to see if it's worth it....
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Old 05-09-2015, 10:39 AM   #21
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Wayne, A regulator is just a spring loaded pressure reduction device. It obstructs the flow to reduce the pressure. The regulator at the tank does this to reduce the pressure to the lower pressure required by the propane appliances on the trailer.
Your grill, in most cases, is built to use the full tank pressure and reduces the pressure, through a regulator, to the lower pressure required by the grill. It also has a knob to adjust the flow for different size flames. If you leave the grill regulator in series with the tank regulator, you have enough flow restrictions that you will probably never get the full flame the grill was intended to have. Some people remove the grill regulator, but that is not a good solution unless you have a separate valve at the grill to control the flame intensity. Most marine grills have a low pressure kit that replaces the grill regulator with a simple control valve.
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Old 05-09-2015, 10:45 AM   #22
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Indeed
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Old 05-09-2015, 10:53 AM   #23
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My trailer did not have the accessory gas connection so I added an inline Tee fitting and a quick disconnect. It works well with my Camco Olympia 5500 SS RV gas grill. I did have to turn down the flame adjustment on the grill as even on the lowest setting the grill was too hot.

You may discover, as I did, that when the grill is operating there is insufficient pressure to operate the water heater. We may have had the cooktop on at the same time, but I would have thought that since we were not running the furnace there would be plenty of pressure available.

After fixing dinner one night we found the water heater light on. I turned it off and back on and it has been fine ever since.

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Old 05-10-2015, 10:10 AM   #24
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GammaDog: When your are running both your Honda generators at the same time do you get full power in both generators. My assumption was that the 1/4" propane line of the Airstream's aux port would not supply enough propane to run two EU2000's at full power.
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Old 05-11-2015, 08:06 AM   #25
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Wlanford: I was concerned about that too since even the feed lines on the trifuel kits I used are 3/8". There are 3/8 quick disconnect kits available, but the port on my EB25 is the 1/4" type so I dropped $75 on 1/4" parts to see if my concerns were real. The test I ran to find out was to run each gen on its own 20lb LP bottle without QD fittings. My setup is a 2000i and a 2000i companion. The LP fuel block on one of these generators is very touchy. A fraction of a turn in either direction from its proper setting causes the generator to run rough, so I believe that even a slight disturbance in LP flow pressure would be detectable. And might even stall that generator.

I started both generators, connected the trailer to the companion and turned on the AC. Both generators went to full power (I had the Ecomode settings turned on). The AC blew cold. Then I added QDs into that setup between the regulators and the feed lines for the generators. Same result. I made up a 1/4" QD "tee" using one male Sturgis 250 and two females on a standard brass 1/4" tee block (from my local Ace hardware store). I ran both Hondas off a single 20 lb bottle... no detectable difference in sound or function. The last test was to put a 10' Camco QD hose between the trailer port and the QD tee. Same performance. Remember that fuel line distance measurable reduces pressure and flow rate. 10' of rubber hose in a system that is basically 1/2 PSI could have been a deal killer.

Based on other posts in this tread (thanks to all for sharing!) I realize there are two tests I need to do. 1. Use my multimeter to check voltage. I'm not sure how these generators would perform if they were starved for fuel. Maybe the human ear isn't the best tool to test for that. Especially my ears which my wife says don't work so well anymore. Knowing I still have 110+ volts would be a comfort. 2. Turn on appliances until I detect a change in the generator performance and see what happens. If the trailer system is 3/8" lines and the choke point is the QD on the front of the trailer it is possible that I could also run the water heater, cooktop or what have you. As a practical matter, being a Floridian, I need two Honda 2000s for AC. I don't expect to need both running with the furnace. If off grid in the frozen north, I might want one 2000 to charge the batteries while running the furnace. The fridge switches to 120 when available, so I would not need LP for both fridge and generators, either. Ditto the water heater since it is LP or 120.

I hope that helps. Making this work has been a lot of fun for me. We head west in three weeks. On the road for 5 weeks in June and July. Looking forward to that stress test.
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Old 05-12-2015, 10:20 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan@LED4RV View Post
Marshal has a pick list chart of all the parts it takes to do what you might want to do.
Dan -Would you please provide a link to this site. I've tried searching thru Google, but haven't been able to find this information. Thanks!
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Old 05-12-2015, 10:34 AM   #27
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I had a Marshal valve that Dan showed on his post for years on my SOB. It was a great safe alternative for those who carry grills. I just left the valve on the trailer when I sold it since it was many years old and wasn't made (at the time) for the newer gas fittings. I now carry a small 8 lb tank with me along with a long hose that connects to where the gas bottle connected on my Weber Q. That 8 lb tank is small and is easy to carry. I easily get a couple of seasons of cooking with it.

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Old 05-12-2015, 10:36 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by GammaDog View Post
Wlanford: I was concerned about that too since even the feed lines on the trifuel kits I used are 3/8". There are 3/8 quick disconnect kits available, but the port on my EB25 is the 1/4" type so I dropped $75 on 1/4" parts to see if my concerns were real.
GammaDog - If I'm reading your post correctly I think we have nearly the same setup. My Companion generator, however, is gasoline powered.

I believe that the female propane QD on my AS is 1/4", and the male OD inlet to my propane powered Honda 2000i is 3/8". I've looked everywhere for a hose to connect the two fittings. I'm almost to the point of replacing the 1/4" female QD on the trailer to a 3/8" out of frustration. I think that I might want to keep the 1/4" connection on the trailer for connecting some other propane appiiance in the future.

Do you have any words of wisdom that you would care to share about how you made the transition from 1/4" to 3/8"? Thanks!
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