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Old 09-26-2015, 07:29 PM   #15
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I agree with Streamracer about the batteries. If your blower has been running for hours trying to warm things up, very likely the batteries are discharged. This is the simplest and most often overlooked explanation of your symptoms. Make sure you have a good 13 volts from both batteries before thinking of an alternative explanation. In addition, if your batteries are a few years old, their performance might be marginal in any case. The furnace sail switch needs pretty much full voltage if it is going to open.
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Old 09-27-2015, 10:20 PM   #16
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Furnace not relighting after switching propane tanks

But we are plugged into our 30 amp outlet constantly. Could the batteries be the issue if that's the case? I hear our converter turn on every now and then, seemingly to charge the batteries if the batteries are low, and all our other low-voltage appliances are working properly.
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:06 AM   #17
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I am no expert on this, and I am sure an expert will be along shortly, but with the '94 LY that we owned, batteries turned out to be the problem. The non-ignition was happening even though we were plugged in to shore power. New batteries and Bingo!.... in business again.

My non-expert guess is that the furnace runs off the batteries and not the converter, and the furnace sail switch requires a higher voltage than any other DC appliance, and the converter doesn't kick in until the voltage is below that point. We had a mobile RV mechanic come out and diagnose our problem, which had been frustrating me for two cold trips in the MH.
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:38 AM   #18
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Furnace not relighting after switching propane tanks

Thanks. I pulled out the igniter, and it seems to spark with plenty of gusto. It seems to me more gas issue, some sort of valve not opening or something like that… I don't smell any gas at all from the furnace when I'm doing the start up cycle… but it may be time for new batteries anyway!
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Old 09-28-2015, 07:06 AM   #19
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As we enter the winter months, if your batteries are more than a few years old, it may be a good insurance policy to replace them, especially with an older 34' unit which has multiple 12 volt appliances and lights. You can always keep the current batteries in reserve. Having new batteries will also eliminate one of the variables being discussed here.
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Old 09-28-2015, 08:16 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradleyoder View Post
Thanks. I pulled out the igniter, and it seems to spark with plenty of gusto. It seems to me more gas issue, some sort of valve not opening or something like that… I don't smell any gas at all from the furnace when I'm doing the start up cycle… but it may be time for new batteries anyway!
Bradley... it all fits. The igniter has no problem. My igniter was snapping away happily too. It is the sail switch. No gas for the igniter to ignite, so yes you won't smell gas.
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:30 PM   #21
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good point.. it happens more in summer time I find. Had one friend think his tank was empty, but he had just gotten it the week before.. took it to one of the place that takes your empty and give you a full one. bet the loved that.. full tank at no cost.

Just crack the valve real slow and try that.

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If your tanks/system are relatively new they are probably equipped with an Overfill Protection Device and other safety devices. The excess flow valve part of this system (tank and regulator) can automatically prevent the flow of propane from the tank to your lines if it detects a sudden increase in gas flow. The idea is that it would prevent the flow of gas if one of your copper lines tore off the bottom of your trailer for example. The valve can accidentally trigger if you switch out propane tanks and open the valve on the new tank too quickly. This simulates the sudden propane demand that the safety feature was designed to address. If you just hook up and throw the valve wide open (like I used to on our BBQ grill) you are likely to encounter this problem every time you change tanks or close the valve for storage, etc.

I would close off the valve at the tank, light the stove for a minute to clear the propane and air out of the lines, then very slowly open up the valve on the propane tank. If you do nothing at all the situation should resolve itself once the pressure equalizes.

I'm not sure if that is your issue but something to consider...
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Old 09-29-2015, 08:27 AM   #22
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When I turn on my furnace and the blower comes up to speed I can hear the sail switch click. When that happens if I get down on the floor and look thru the window on the door of the heater I can see the lighter sparking. If the gas solenoid opens then the burner should ignite. Like I said in an earlier post, then it could be sticking gas valve. If you have an ohm meter, check the coils to make sure they are good.
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Old 09-30-2015, 02:16 PM   #23
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I have that happen on gas logs we service at times.. As simple as it seems take a good size wrench and whacked the side of the valve. They can get "stuck" when sitting for a while and not want to move. remember the voltage used on this stuff if less than 750 millivolt..not a lot of voltage which = power.

No crap i whacked on and it started up.. told the homeowner if it happens again to wack it one the side.. eventually it the valve will need to be replaced.

after they start i will cycle the valve off and on at least 5 -6 times to make sure things are moving ok. the alum valve and alum valve body will get a tiny bit of corrosion and stick.

give it a try can't hurt..

and this is why they pay me the big bucks..



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When I turn on my furnace and the blower comes up to speed I can hear the sail switch click. When that happens if I get down on the floor and look thru the window on the door of the heater I can see the lighter sparking. If the gas solenoid opens then the burner should ignite. Like I said in an earlier post, then it could be sticking gas valve. If you have an ohm meter, check the coils to make sure they are good.
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Old 10-17-2015, 01:29 PM   #24
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One other item to consider.. Our furnace and gas appliances failed at AlumaFiesta in Tucson last January ('88 Excella 25) and it looked like we were not getting propane to things that burned it.. After some interesting diagnostics in shop, discovered that the "lower propane hose" connecting regulator to hard lines under trailer had failed from inside out.. Liner in rubber hose had become loose gloppy mess, and jammed at exit fitting of hose, blocking flow of gas like a wet rubbery rag.. No idea why or how it failed, but replacement hose and furnace and hot water heater were good.. Not sure if it is Airstream part or not, but we had to have one fabricated at commercial hose shop.. Appears to have failed again last month.. Sigh..
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Old 10-17-2015, 01:38 PM   #25
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If you removed both tanks or removed one while the switching valve was open to that tank you have air in the lines. The heater and the frig can not purge air because the orifice on the pilot is too small. Crack the gas line at the heater till you smell gas and close it. The heater will light after that. If the frig is having the same problem crack that line just before the solenoid valve also.

The stove and the hot water heater will purge themselves and light when this has happened.
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