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Old 04-14-2003, 03:55 PM   #1
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Fix or replace LPG regulator?

There was still some LPG in the (old) tanks on my 1971 Overlander.

After reconnecting them, I turned one on, then the other. Gas seems to be leaking from the regulator. I don't know whether it's an "automatic" unit or not. It has a dial with an arrow to indicate which of the two tanks is in use. I messed with it a little, but couldn't get it to stop leaking.

Is this is an item subject to repair or if it should just be replaced?

The screws holding the regulator case together are rusty, but otherwise, it doesn't look like the regulator has been handled roughly.

If I replace it, can anyone tell me about their chosen regulators? I see that Inland RV is offfering a Fischer automatic LPG gas regulator for $165.

Any other place to check?

Thanks!
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Old 04-14-2003, 04:28 PM   #2
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If these are your original tanks, valves & regulator from '71 they should be replaced. In April the valve requirements were changed and you probably won't be able to get your old tanks refilled with out the new overflow valves installed.

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Old 04-14-2003, 06:15 PM   #3
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The Fischer that Inland sells is the right kind of regulator for your trailer. This is not an item that I would recommend trying to save a few $$ to rebuild. Get a new one and be safe! While you are at it you may also want to replace the hight pressure hoses that go from the tanks to the regulator. They can be gotten at many RV stores and there are even SS Braided ones to give a bit more protection if you like. I recommend taking what you want to replace shopping with you so you can be assured of a proper fit.

As Shari said "If these are your original tanks, valves & regulator from '71 they should be replaced"

Propane systems do not last forever and I would not want to put my trust in one that is 32 years old, without replacing a few of the critical parts.
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Old 04-14-2003, 07:27 PM   #4
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Fischer Regulators

Fischer is a top of the line regulator, with proper maintenance it should last the life of the trailer.

They are used year in and year out on argueably one of the toughest environments - offshore oil platforms.

The Fischer's hold up well against the temperature extremes and corrosive saltwater spray.

John H. Carter, in New Orleans is a source of repair and rebuild parts. A $150 plus regulator should certainly be rebuilt.
Springs, orifice seats, and phoenolic and rubber parts are somewhat uneversal within a series, and I have been successful in obtaining rebuild parts on virtually all Fischers the company has in service.

I am in full agreement that an LPG regulator should be professionaly serviced on a regular basis, but consider an overhauled unit, or at least get the old one overhauled and keep it as a spare.
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Old 04-14-2003, 07:31 PM   #5
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Fix or replace LPG regulator?

Greetings Roundhead!

I second Bret's recommendation. One of the scariest things that I remember happening at an International Rally occurred at the 1999 International Rally in Dayton, OH. A number of us who were parked in the Vintage area were visiting under the awning of a neighbors trailer when we heard a loud pop followed by a "whooshing" sound. One of the high pressure hoses on a '68 Sovereign had failed sending LP Gas into the atmosphere - - quick actions on the part of neighbors prevented a failure from becoming a disaster by immediately shutting off the valves on both tanks - - the owners of the coach were away at a seminar. This experience convinced me to immediately replace the hoses on my '64 Overlander - - I had owned it for four years at the time and had no idea how old the hoses were - - the tech doing the replacement discovered that the original regulator was also leaking so it was replaced as well. There wasn't any question when I purchased my '78 Argosy Minuet - - the regulator and hoses were on my immediate replacement list as well as installation of new OPD valves in the Worthington Tanks along with recertification.

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Old 04-14-2003, 09:40 PM   #6
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You will definitely need to get your valves upgraded if they haven't already been done. Make sure they put the correct valves in your tanks, they are not a one-size fit-all scenario. I just finished upgrading the LP system on my Overlander, OPD's, new hoses and new regulator. I have never heard of and wouldn't recommend a rebuilt regulator. I found the exact replacement Fischer at one of my local propane suppliers for $75. The exact designation is a Fischer type R966 automatic changeover regulator. The owner of the shop said he only sees them on the high dollar diesel pushers such as Newells and Prevosts, says they have a high flow rate and are the best available. The inlets from the tanks mate to the Marshall 'green nut" OPD high pressure hoses and on the outlet you will need to reduce it from 1/2 npt to 3/8 npt to connect to your flex hose down to the frame.

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Old 04-15-2003, 07:52 AM   #7
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Smile Good advice

Chas,

Thanks for the detailed info on the Fischer. I'll look into it.

I had at it again last night.

I found the leak not at the regulator, but at the top of the (automatic?) switch. There is a plastic plug there that I tightened. That stopped the (apparent) leaking. (The actual regulator is located below this switch.) I also snugged up the screws on the cover plate.

The PO used this trailer last season, so I'd guess the LPG system has been in recent use. Still, I understand I need the OPD valves, etc., and so it looks like I'll have to change out the whole kit and caboodle. (Tanks too. The one empty tank has flaked-off scale rustling around in the bottom of it.)

The goal here was to get the propane going so that I could check operation of the stove, oven, furnace, and water heater. I could not get the reefer to come one using 120-volt, so I'm guessing no-go on propane either. (The AC did come on and got cold.)

Is there a likelihood that the existing LPG is so old it will impeded testing (ignition) of the appliances I mentioned? Still worth a try, don't you think?

After testing, I'll upgrade the LPG supply system as all of you suggest.

Thanks!

Roundhead rolling along...
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Old 04-15-2003, 09:09 AM   #8
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You may want to check under the exterior near your refer and see ifthe external petcock is turned off. Each appliance has one of these on the outside.
If you open the doors on the refer and do not get an ammonia smell then you should be able to get it to work. I would be sure the unit is level (THE most important thing is being level) and plug it in over night with the refer on. Check it in the AM and see if it got cool.

Good luck!
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Old 04-15-2003, 09:48 AM   #9
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LPR Regulator repairs

Attempting to repair "ANY"LPG regulator, by anyone, is like jumping out of an airplane, at 10,000 feet, WITHOUT a parachute.

This statement was made by the national Sales Manager of Robert Shaw controls.

A warning to the wise and to those that have "loved ones,"
DON'T.


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Old 04-15-2003, 06:55 PM   #10
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Actually,

Upon further reading of the instruction manual that came with my Fisher there is a section that deals with repairs and I quote,

" Regulators that have been disassembled for repair must be tested for proper operation before being returned to service. Fisher type Y499-2 test rack can be furnished for this purpose. Only parts manufactured by Fisher should be used for the repair of Fisher regulators. Be sure to give the complete type number of the regulator when corresponding with the factory."

I guess Dennis was right, they can be repaired but I just don't think it is really worth the trouble.

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Old 04-29-2003, 02:19 PM   #11
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Replacement costs

I opted to replace the regulator, which was a Marshall, with another automatic Marshall. Cost: $45.

Other costs:

Changing the valve to OPD: $23 each

Pigtail: $13.50 each

Re-fill 30-pound tank: $17

Re-test for pressure soundness: $5.
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Old 04-30-2003, 07:55 AM   #12
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Last week my son and I took a trip in the AS from NH to NC. On our way we stayed a night at a rest stop in NE PA. It was cold and I was looking forward to a nice warm trailer with a furnace. No such luck. Apparently the regulator failed and the gas pressure was insufficient to fire the furnace.

When we finally got to Ashville NC, the campground had a name for an RV service man who came to the vehicle and repaired the system. He had the proper equipment to test the pressure, test for leaks etc. Ten minutes later, and $115 I had a new regulator. Now all three burners of the stove light with the furnace, the gas refrigerator, and the hot water heater running at the same time. Certainly new to me.

While on the road, don't hesitate to use the recommended service tech's that come to the park. I've found them to be very knowledgeable and helpful.

BTW it sure is nice to have a heat pump in the air conditioning unit as a backup.
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Old 04-30-2003, 08:37 AM   #13
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I tend to agree. The cost only seems high until there is an "event" that changes the course of your life.

Replace.

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Old 04-30-2003, 09:01 AM   #14
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Eric.

Or, the end of it, or a loved one, as the case may be.

Living on the edge is OK, but you must always wear a parachute that fully deploys in micro-seconds and in less than one inch of altitude.

Until then, caution to the wise, should be an absolute habit.

So many "accidents" had the handwriting on the wall, way before it happened.

Take it from someone that had to settle insurance claims, with the estate of the deceased, especially when the death could have been so easily avoided.


Fruit for thought.


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Old 04-30-2003, 09:05 AM   #15
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I could not agree with you more Andy.

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Old 03-23-2004, 11:07 AM   #16
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Re: Fischer Regulators

Quote:
Originally posted by 87MH
Fischer is a top of the line regulator, with proper maintenance it should last the life of the trailer....
Other than checking for mud dobber nests at vent holes, what is proper maintenance for a regulator?
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Old 03-23-2004, 11:23 AM   #17
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Re: Replacement costs

Quote:
Originally posted by Roundhead
Re-fill 30-pound tank: $17
Re-test for pressure soundness: $5.
Ugh! That wasn't real cheap! We got a visual recheck of tanks for free in Taos (new date marked with "E," good for five more years). And we refill empty 30-pounders for under $12! It's a good idea to shop around when it comes to anything involving propane!!

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Old 03-23-2004, 02:21 PM   #18
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Chas, Where did you get a Fischer 966 for $75.00 bucks.? The propane dealer in Georgetown DE wants $150.00!! for a 966.
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Old 03-23-2004, 04:22 PM   #19
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Well we have heard from alot of folks with slightly different advice concerning rebuilding. Has anyone contacted the horse's mouth?....Fischer Co.?

Absent their advice I would opt for the safety of replace. But I can wait.


I will try to make contact. and report back.

Now speaking of LPG what exactly does this do and is this an Airstream stock item or a owner add-on?
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Old 03-23-2004, 07:03 PM   #20
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Fisher Maintenance

"Other than checking for mud dobber nests at vent holes, what is proper maintenance for a regulator?"

I can speak from first hand experience that any maintenance you do to a Fischer will be confined to replacing the diaphragm element (if so equipped), the nozzel and seat, (or needle and seat), and the spring, if exposed to extremely nasty gas - all scenarios are highly unlikely in a Propane environment. Take care of any exterior corrossion (again, unlikely), and the Fischer should perform as designed. Just don't screw down all the way on the pressure regulator adjustment, that will cut the seat, and it will be tear down and rebuild time.

Compare the Fisher to a Marshall or other "pressed metal" cheapie. Fisher, like Airstream, is a quality built American product designed to last. Not cheap, but the best buy in the long run. The rest, besides Fischer, as far as my knowledge goes, are not maintainable....strictly disposable.

I'll take a properly rebuilt Fisher any day over a new pot cast SOB.

Has anyone ever had to replace a Fisher because it quit working?

If anyone has any question about this advice, contact anyone associated with offshore oil and gas production. Fishers are out there years at a time, working 24/7, in argueably the most severe salt water/air environment you could find, and internally regulating acidic and wet gas on top of the exterior environmental stresses. About the only time they need repair offshore is when they are asked to perform in pressure and volume ranges they were not designed for, even then it's not much of a chore to change the seat, diaphragm and spring.

That having been said, Inland Andy is quite correct about being careful with the rebuild. My industrial experience has taught me to rebuild, if it can be brought to "as new" for 50% of the purchase price, if not, replace it. But watch out for what it is replaced with. Compare a Fischer with an SOB prior to making a final decision, the materials, workmanship, and finish convey unsurpassed reliability.

Note that I have absolutely no connection with either Fischer or J.H. Carter, other than having used them on each and every Offshore Production Platform I have been associated with the past 30 years.
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