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Old 12-07-2013, 08:15 PM   #15
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Turn on and set the furnace for 40*. You will be OK.

John
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Old 12-07-2013, 08:45 PM   #16
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H8Rain,
What I would be concerned about is the waste valves hanging below the trailer. They can freeze and crack. Running the furnace will protect what's inside the trailer- open the cabinet doors if you are running the heat low or using a heat source other than the furnace (which ducts heat to the waste tanks). Dump the tanks as soon as you can. If you can't, I'd suggest adding a gallon of RV antifreeze to each tank to lower the freezing point of the waste in each tank.
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Old 12-07-2013, 09:31 PM   #17
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Get to a location where you can dump the tanks and have 120 volt power available. Use a heat gun or hair drier. Warm up the dump valves and gently try to open them.
Since the BW will take a lot of freezing to cause damage, you may be able to empty the tank without any damage. You may not be as lucky with the GW, but at this point, you don't have much choice.
Once emptied, pour 1/2 gallon of RV. Antifreeze in the GW and BW tanks. The stuff is cheap.
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:57 AM   #18
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Thanks to everyone for the help!

Pink RV antifreeze (with the cold snap) was immediately out of stock at Walmart and everywhere except Camper Clinic / Dealer which is almost $10 per gallon! Cheap compared to the damage that could be caused for sure.
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Old 12-25-2013, 08:32 PM   #19
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We're in cold weather too. Our third night in KY and we had a frozen gray tank this morning. So a few quick questions:
1) So I've added a quartz halogen on a little stand under the trailer? Is that ok. About two feet from the gray tank
2) I'm running just furnace now too. Hate the heat pump ... I've got plenty of gas for we're on our last two days and still have gas in both tanks ... so question, doesn't the furnace keep the tanks from freezing?
3) I have a little anti freeze in both tanks (gray and black) and added 1 gallon of washer fluid because everyone was out of RV antifreeze ... I know washer fluid is bad on the seals but didn't want to risk a freeze.

I think I'm set. And yes, water hose is disconnected from the trailer (23' flying cloud) and very little in both tanks since I dumped both this morning.

Frustrated no book really covers this and the manuals aren't so great. [edit] Let's just say "vague." :0) Sorry.
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Old 12-25-2013, 09:39 PM   #20
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Not sure about the light but the gas furnace will heat the underbelly and holding tanks. There is a great book that helps a bit more than the manual.

http://airstreamlife.myshopify.com/p...o-airstreaming

Stay warm.
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Old 12-25-2013, 10:14 PM   #21
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I just finished a few days of 'Southern Cold Weather Camping'...20's at night with no hookups.


To me the trick is a warm bed. I can warm up the trailer with a portable heater during the day. At night, a thermal mattress and some blankets get me by. I use the on board fresh water tank, it's above the floor.

Moisture control is the biggest issue here, even without any help our humidity is crazy high. Add some cooking, regular breathing by me (I'd like to continue thank you very much) and other forms of converting fuel into heat and water and things get pretty sticky. I actually had condensation on my Cherry hardwood interior.

After 3 days, my ice chest was still frozen solid, just like the eggs in my Dometic fridge...grrrrr
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Old 12-25-2013, 11:20 PM   #22
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We just returned from a trip where we spent 9 nights in temps as low as +7F.
No problems with condensation. Used electric space heaters and kept 1 roof vent opened about 3/4". Always used one vent fan when cooking or bathing to exhaust the humidity. The vent over the stove is not enough when cooking.
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Old 12-26-2013, 06:25 AM   #23
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Here's my light setup. Also using more RV antifreeze. I can tell you all, one gallon split between gray and black water is not enough if you using onboard facilities. So we're trying all tonight ... furnace, the light and a gallon in each tank. I'll let you all noon soon.

Thank you all! Great stuff here!!
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Old 12-26-2013, 06:55 AM   #24
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Boxfotos, if something is frozen it likely is the valve itself. Run the furnace, redirect your heat lamp to the valve area, be patient, don't pull hard on the valve handle. The furnace must be run to protect anything under the foor, including the tanks.

John
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Go often to the house of a friend, for weeds choke the unused path........Emerson

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Old 12-26-2013, 07:02 AM   #25
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Thanks. Just think the manuals should say, "while on the road in subfreezing weather, ONLY run the furnace (not the heat pump) to keep your tanks from freezing."

How hard would that be? :0)
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